Vintage Raffia Fedora

The avant-garde Japanese fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto has said, “dirty is good.” These three words capture the eccentric designer’s love of a dark and disheveled — yet dapper — look. A master tailor with a distinctive style, he creates everything from coats and jackets to day dresses and evening gowns.

Yamamoto was born to a World War II widow in 1943. By the time he was 26, he had a law degree from Keio University and a fashion degree from Bunka Fashion College. In 1969, he won two Japanese fashion awards — the Endo Award and the Soen Award — which included a round-trip ticket to Paris. 

It was in the French capital that Yamamoto realized the fashion world was changing. A casual aesthetic was replacing formal and classical sensibilities. He soon set up his first label — Y’s — and embarked upon designing heavy-duty sportswear.

Yamamoto launched women’s collections in 1977 in Tokyo, in 1981 in Paris and in 1982 in New York. Their pieces loosened the traditional female clothing silhouette in favor of shapes more typical of menswear: simple cuts, minimal details and generous proportions. In 1983, the New York Times wrote, “Yohji Yamamoto may stand barely five feet tall, but his effect on world fashion in the last two years has been enormous.”

In 1984, he made his first foray into men’s fashion under the Yohji Yamamoto label. In 1994, he was awarded the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Minister of Culture and, in 2002, he became the creative director of Adidas’s Y-3.

Yamamoto’s fashion has been the subject of exhibitions around the world, including “May I help you” in 2002 at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, “Correspondences” in 2005 at the Gallery of Modern Art in Florence, Italy, and “Painting and Weaving Opportunity” in 2017 at Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery. In 2017, he received the DFA Lifetime Achievement Award.

On 1stDibs, find vintage Yohji Yamamoto clothing, accessories, handbags and more.

The right vintage or designer hat can transform a look. This humble accessory is your reliable pièce de résistance, boosting confidence and lending an air of sophistication to any ensemble.

Functional and a widely renowned, versatile finishing touch when heading out for a night on the town, hats have long been a part of the history of fashion. Wealthy Egyptians, for example, wore hats to keep them cool in the blazing sun.

In the early 1800s, the wide-brimmed bonnets that women wore became increasingly elaborate. The brims broadened and many were embellished with colorful floral decorations. Legendary fashion designer Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s career began in millinery, a term that stems from Milan, Italy, as it was the city best known for producing quality hats during the 16th century. That was before she would set the fashion world alight with comfortable and practical jackets and skirts, encouraging women to leave extravagant clothes behind. Halston, who defined the spare, body-conscious style of the so-called Studio 54 era, was the hat designer for Bergdorf Goodman when he first moved to New York City. He had his first encounter with fame in 1961 when Jackie Kennedy wore a pillbox hat he designed.

From fascinators at a prestigious derby to a baseball cap for a walk in the park, there’s a hat for every occasion. When shopping for the right hat, you’ll want to pick one you feel confident in. Think about size too — you don’t want a wide-brimmed headpiece that will hog the spotlight on every occasion (or maybe you do). If you’ve got a petite face, an oversize hat might be too overbearing.

On 1stDibs find an expansive assortment of vintage and designer hats today. You can search for hats by style, designer or color.