What defines “fine” jewelry? For many aficionados, there’s a clear line separating the golden wheat from the gilded chaff. But the handcrafted pieces made by Ciner, a 128-year-old costume jewelry house with a glittering past to rival some of the hautest high jewelers, call into question our notions of what constitutes preciousness.
Quality? Craftsmanship? Painstaking detail? Vintage Ciner earrings, brooches, necklaces and other accessories have them all in spades.
Much of the Ciner’s allure can be traced to its origins in fine jewelry. Emanuel Ciner, an Austrian immigrant, founded the firm in Manhattan in 1892, crafting pieces from the traditional precious gems, gold and platinum. But World War I and the Great Depression caused purse strings to tighten and materials to become scarce. Rather than try to weather the economic downturn, which shuttered many other American jewelers, Ciner made the risky transition from fine jewelry to costume (or fashion) jewelry — virtually uncharted territory.
Emanuel Ciner’s sons, Irwin and Charles, introduced an array of innovations — rubber casting molds, which are especially durable and produce higher quality results, and white metal alloys, which affordably mimic the look of more precious materials — that would become the standard for costume jewelry. During World War II, Ciner’s advanced molding technology was utilized by the U.S. military to produce munitions and tools. This arrangement gave the firm access to the heavily rationed metals it needed for its jewels, enabling it again to endure conditions that drove others into bankruptcy.
The company hit its stride in the 1960s, when its jewelry was sold at some of the country’s toniest stores, even garnering an Andy Warhol–illustrated ad for Bonwit Teller. Its pieces were worn by the era’s brightest stars. In the famous 1957 Joe Shere photo of Sophia Loren sneering at Jayne Mansfield’s décolletage, Mansfield is resplendent in shoulder-grazing Ciner earrings.
Ciner is unique among costume jewelers in that its pieces aren’t imitations — they are coveted in their own right. Elizabeth Taylor, a voracious jewelry collector with a taste for the very finest, was a longtime client. Several suites of Ciner jewels were included in the 2011 Christie’s sale of Taylor’s collection, with one group of rhinestone-studded ear clips and a bracelet fetching $15,600 — more than 100 times the auction estimate. It’s a reminder of a time, not so long ago, when women of great style wore fine and costume jewelry with equal aplomb, often at the same time.
Today, Ciner — now run by Emanuel Ciner’s granddaughter Pat Ciner Hill and great-granddaughter Jean Hill — continues to adhere to the same exacting production specifications. It is the only jewelry house in New York, and likely the United States, that manufactures all its pieces entirely in-house. Each begins with dozens of elements that are cast in rubber molds and then individually filed and polished, plated in a particularly thick layer of 18-karat gold or rhodium, assembled on the bench and painted with enamel or set with stones. Every step is performed by hand by craftsmen, many of whom have been with the company for more than 30 years.
Find vintage Ciner clip-on earrings, choker necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Ciner Art Deco Necklace
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
Fine Ciner art deco necklace composed of two strands of articulated faux ruby beads with crystal rhinestone pave spacers and clasp. Center focal pendant of hand wired ruby beads and ...
Rhodium, Base Metal
Ciner Victorian Inspired Gilt and Paste Bib
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
Ciner Neo Victorian gilt necklace with paste set dangles. Dozens of articulated links are set with pastes and graduate down in size toward drops. Impre...
Gilt Metal
Turquoise, Clam Shell Coral Necklace w Jacla Silver Santo Domingo Pueblo Heishe
Located in Wallkill, NY
Graduated turquoise heishi necklace Double strand with attached jaclas and carved clam shell centers. Has sterling silver findings, slide and coral beads at the terminals with sterli...
Coral, Turquoise, Sterling Silver, Silver
Tanzanite, Pearl, Sapphire and Emerald Necklace Chain
By Royaal Stones Ltd
Located in Bangkok, Thailand
ALL OUR PRICES INCLUDE PREPAID TARRIFS & CUSTOMS DUTIES. A very unique beaded Sapphire and Emerald necklace, with a Tanzanite, Pearl and Emerald tassle set using White Diamonds and ...
Emerald, Pearl, Sapphire, Tanzanite, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
1930s Silver & Peking Glass Art Deco 3 Piece Jewellery Set
Located in London, GB
This exquisite 1930s Art Deco Peking Glass 3 piece set with prong set rock crystals is comprised of drop earrings, matching bracelet and necklace with a large drop pendant, and is in absolutely beautiful condition. Peking Glass is very collectable and was created to resemble the jade or jadeite which was so popular in the Art Deco era. This set features rectangular green Peking Glass...
Silver
Marina J. Woven Pearl Sautoir with 14k Gold Ring & Removable Pearl Tassel
By Marina J.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Beautiful Sautoir, all hand woven by Marina J. This Sautoir is made using high luster white Pearls (2mm and 4mm Pearls) . Measuring 42 inches long, this Sautoir is versatile able to ...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Chanel 1987 No. 5 Logo Pearl Pendant Chain Necklace
By Chanel
Located in San Francisco, CA
From the Spring/Summer 1987 collection, released in conjunction with the launch of Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum. The necklace is in good vintage condition with light wear consistent wi...
Effie C Zuni Sterling Silver Native American Pendant Necklace Turquoise
Located in Wallkill, NY
Beaded Necklace with Snake wrapped Turquoise which is Hallmarked Effie C Zuni in Sterling silver. Pendent measures 2.11 in x 1.20 in- Chain measures 18 in End ...
Turquoise, Sterling Silver
Spider Web Sterling Silver Turquoise Navajo Pendant Necklace 1970s Jim Harrison
Located in Wallkill, NY
Center Spider Web Turquoise with coral flanking the sides, set in sterling silver. Sterling silver Saucer beads have wonderful detailing on them 23 in l...
Onyx, Turquoise, Sterling Silver
Mid-Victorian Emerald, Pearl and Diamond Pendant
Located in London, GB
A magnificent mid-Victorian natural peal, emerald and diamond pendant, to the centre a natural pearl measuring approximately 7.7mm in diameter, surrounded by a lozenge-shaped frame set with four rectangular-cut emerald and eight old European-cut diamonds, with four outstretching diamond-set bow-like motifs, all within an outer oval border set with emerald-cut emeralds, and flanked with four smaller natural pearls each measuring approximately 4.9mm in diameter, suspending a detachable natural pearl drop with rose-cut diamond cap, the pearl measuring approximately 11.2 x 8.6mm, accompanied by certificate stating that all pearls are natural of saltwater origin, all surmounted by a diamond-set pendant loop, the diamonds estimated to weigh 1.5 carats in total, the emeralds estimated to weigh 1.5 carat in total, all mounted in yellow gold, with a fancy link chain, with original fitted case, circa 1850, the pendant measuring approximately 6 x 2.8cm, the chain measuring approximately 41 x 0.3cm, gross weight 28.6 grams A gorgeous nineteenth century pendant comes from the collection of Bentley & Skinner, Jewellers by Royal appointment His Majesty King Charles III. This pendant captures the mid-Victorian style of Renaissance revival, incorporating elements of fifteenth century jewellery design. This piece features a frame of emeralds and diamonds with a beautiful natural pearl in the centre. Further pearls decorate the frame of emeralds and diamonds, and a pearl drop from the centre completes the pendant. This ornate and striking piece is suspended from a lovely Victorian snake chain...
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold
Sterling Silver Blue Jay Coral & Turquoise Pendent Necklace Zuni Native American
Located in Wallkill, NY
Sammy and Esther Guardian Blue Jay Motif Pendant set in Sterling Silver. Inlaid with Turquoise and coral. The Pendant attached to a beaded necklace Hallmarked on the back. Measures ...
Coral, Turquoise, Sterling Silver
Certified 29 Carat Jade Horse Pendant, Perfect for Equestrians & Horse Lovers
Located in Hong Kong, HK
Please check out the HD video. 2026 is the year of the horse! In addition to being a status symbol, wearing jade traditionally has been known to grant the user good luck, health, prosperity and longevity. This is a certified natural jadeite jade of over 29cts. This jade horse pendant...
Jade, Agate
Marina J. Black Pearl, Amethyst, Pink Tourmaline and Rose Gold Watch Sautoir
By Marina J.
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Most elegant vintage Gold Watch reworked into a wonderful Centerpiece for a Satuoir. This beautiful Sautoir made of multi shaped & faceted gemstones and incredibly high luster Baroque / Coin shaped Black Pearls which display a vivid "oil spill" like iridescence. This Sautoir is made with Amethyst, Cherry Quartz...
Amethyst, Black Pearl, Quartz, Tourmaline, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Rodrigo Otazu Necklace
By Rodrigo Otazu
Located in Paris, FR
Rodrigo Otaku handmade multicolor necklace featuring a clasp fastening, glass multi beads and a large center crystal bead. In good vintage conditi...
Ciner 1980s Roman Coin Large Link Necklace
By Ciner
Located in New York, NY
An elegant rope twist link necklace with faux ancient Roman coin center piece by New York fashion jewelry company Ciner. The strands of the necklace are comprised of 1 inch oval rope...
Gold Plate
Ciner 70s Enamel and Rhinestone Pendant and Chain
By Ciner
Located in Gresham, OR
A great Ciner 70s pendant: enamel and rhinestone w/ gold0-tone metal chain and base. Chain is 31" long. Pendant is 2.5" across. Some plating loss on chain.