Issey Miyake Mens oversized black nylon coat, c. 1990s
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: MEDIUM (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14022168073
Issey Miyake
From the prismatic Pleats Please collection to the modular, three-dimensional garments crafted from recycled plastic bottles in his Reality Lab, the captivating fashions by Japanese designer Issey Miyake are all about movement.
Born in Hiroshima, Miyake studied graphic design at Tama Art University in Tokyo before relocating to Paris in 1965, where he studied couture and cut his teeth working for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy. In 1969, he moved to New York, where he worked for Geoffrey Beene. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 to found his first solo venture, the Miyake Design Studio. It wasn’t until the 1990s, though, that the designer had his breakthrough moment with experimentations in pleating. Some of his earliest explorations were for choreographer William Forsythe’s Frankfurt Ballet Company, with the 1991 performance of The Loss of Small Detail featuring costumes Miyake designed with pleats that complemented and transformed the movement of the dancers.
Though long a staple in couture — from delicate women’s skirts to men’s suit pants — pleats took on new life in Miyake’s hands. By using a heat press to cure his fabrics after his garments are stitched, Miyake was able to maintain the accordion structure of the pleat, turning a series of folds into sculptural, often futuristic forms unbound by the shape of the human body. In 1993, Miyake debuted “garment pleating” in his Pleats Please line, in which the clothes are constructed at a size that is larger than what is intended for the finished product. The pleats are then created — a process that involves folding and ironing and is separate from the joining of seams — and individual pieces are subsequently hand-fed into a heat press. The pleats are permanent and the garments can be worn and washed without losing their shape.
Miyake’s pleats run the gamut in scale, which enabled him to evoke dramatic, sharp silhouettes and flowy movements in equal measure. In essence, he created an entirely new material whose iterations are infinite — a feat of technology as much as fashion.
Other innovations include Miyake’s 1997 Just Before collection, which introduced a series of tube-knit dresses that could be cut as desired, reducing both work and resources. His Reality Lab now investigates new materials, such as a fully recycled polyester. Miyake’s prowess, in fact, captured another iconic figure in the tech world: Steve Jobs, for whom the designer made hundreds of identical black turtlenecks, the late Apple founder’s sartorial signature.
Find a collection of vintage Issey Miyake day dresses, jackets, shirts and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Alexander McQueen Men's blue denim trench coatBy Alexander McQueenLocated in London, GBAlexander McQueen Men's blue denim trench coatCategory
Early 2000s British Coats and Outerwear
- Raf Simons black wool full length button up priest coat, 'confusion' aw 2000By Raf SimonsLocated in London, GBRaf Simons black wool full length button up priest coat 'Confusion' Autumn-Winter 2000Category
1990s Belgian Coats and Outerwear
- Gucci Autumn-Winter 2006 Men's black wool evening coatBy GucciLocated in London, GBGucci Autumn-Winter 2006 Men's black wool evening coat with metal hook and eye closures and silk liningCategory
Early 2000s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Christian Dior by Marc Bohan brown mink cape with leather tassels, c. 1970By Christian DiorLocated in London, GBStep into luxury with the exquisite Christian Dior by Marc Bohan brown mink cape from the 1970s. This opulent piece boasts lambskin leather tassels and hook-and-eye closures, adorned...Category
1970s French Ponchos
- Raf Simons black wool and grey neoprene coat, fw 2009By Raf SimonsLocated in London, GBIntroducing the Raf Simons Autumn-Winter 2009 black wool men's coat, a striking and innovative piece that exemplifies the designer's bold and visionary approach to menswear. Crafted...Category
Early 2000s Belgian Coats and Outerwear
- Martin Margiela black wool coat with exaggerated collar, fw 1996By Maison Martin MargielaLocated in London, GBIntroducing an iconic Maison Martin Margiela black wool oversized coat from the Autumn-Winter 1996 collection. This coat exemplifies the designer's avant-garde approach to fashion an...Category
1990s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Art Deco 7 Ft. Black Silk Manila Piano Shawl With White Floral EmbroideryLocated in New York, NYArt Deco black silk piano shawl hand embroidered with white silk floral design and 12" hand knotted silk fringe. The shawl is visually beautiful, soft...Category
Early 20th Century Philippine Shawls
- Rare Original Issey Miyake Black Wool Butterfly CoatBy Issey MiyakeLocated in New York, NYRare Issey Miyake black wool butterfly coat with original label. Features button closure at front center. One size fits all.Category
Late 20th Century Japanese Coats
- Sophisticated Russian Sable Mid Length Fur Coat with 3/4 Length SleevesLocated in Tustin, CAVery sophisticated and lavish, genuine regal Russian Sable fur coat features a large and very high fashion wide shawl style collar. The fur is a very rich, dark brown with beautiful ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Russian Overcoats
- Stunning Snakeskin Patchwork Coat with Sheared Mink Lining and Black Fox TrimLocated in Tustin, CAThe patchwork aesthetic is this fall and winter’s most sought after look, which was proven on the runways during fashion month. Designers created plenty of patchwork pieces for their Fall collections, including Gucci, Prada, Marni, Kenzo, Alexander McQueen, and more. Now, available only on 1stdibs is this very expensive new, vintage snakeskin patchwork full length coat with luxurious sheared mink lining...Category
1970s American Coats
- Louis Vuitton Paris Mink Collar Ladies Black Wool Coat Size 38 US Size 6By Louis VuittonLocated in Tustin, CAElegant designer Louis Vuitton Paris ladies coat features a black wool exterior with a large, opulent black mink fur collar and soft rabbit fur lapel trim. The body of the coat is lined in quilted back polyamide, with black silk lined sleeves and black silk lined slash pockets. The backing of the collar is black silk as well. Lapels are lined in black wool and silk. Coat fastens with 5 sets of hook...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Coats
- Supreme Opulent Russian Sable Fur Stroller Length CoatLocated in Tustin, CAShown as the ultimate symbol of status and elegance, Russian Sable is considered to be the most coveted fur in the world. This Russian sable fur coat...Category
Late 20th Century American Opera Coats
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.
Vivienne Westwood’s Punk Spirit Lives On in This ’90s Tartan Ensemble
The shorts suit in a mash-up of patterns with an asymmetrical cut speaks to the designer’s rebellious spirit.