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MartinMargiela 1990s MissDeannaKnit GoldLurexThreaded FauxDipDyed Ombre Pullover

About the Item

When Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela debuted gold Lurex knits while French Hermes womenswear artistic director, simultaneously in Fall 1999, he introduced at his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela a collection featuring 1970s-inspired Lurex-accented sweaters, along with oversized loose clothes intended for either women or men. Including a distinct black-printed white-folded tag stitched into a seam by Italian experimental knitter Miss Deanna, who created many memorable knits under Margiela's artistic direction, this Margiela sparkly finely-knit viscose-and-Lurex-blend long-sleeve pullover is a minimalist unisex design with narrow ribbed trim at the crewneck, wrists and hem. Its "Made In Italy" size 44 with a 15.5-inch shoulderline is without darts and drapes like a one-size-fits-most stretch T-shirt. The lightweight sweater was knit from pale-gold, grey and blue yarns into an ombre pattern like a dip-dye technique associated with fabric. Yet the additional glittery orange-tone metallic thread (difficult to photograph due to reflections) interspersed throughout was clearly not dyed or printed. Conversely, Margiela's Fall 1999 Artisanale Line 0 collection that was produced instead by his Parisian team explored the textural effects of hand-painting fabrics, such as the unisex T-shirts that were striped or obscured with thick silver paint. Earlier in the 1990s, Margiela had reproduced some vintage Lurex garments that he had collected to exemplify the 1970s. In lieu of the Margiela iconic blank brand label, such vintage garments were documented briefly with a printed larger fully-sewn label generally titled "Reproduction Of An Old Garment". While no thread remnants exist on our knit to suggest that our garment was a 1970s reproduction, there is evidence that the four-corner-stitched brand label disappeared before we acquired it. A signature white corner-stitch remains attached to yarn at the rear neckline to indicate where the centered rectangular label had been sewn, while a thread-knotted loop of yarn located at another corner of the missing rectangle was frayed when the label accidentally detached (without damage to the exterior). This is partly how we dated it to Fall/Winter 1999. The knitwear collaboration between Martin Margiela and Deanna Ferretti Veroni ended about five years before he surprisingly resigned from Maison Martin Margiela by mid-2009 to pursue making art independently. So garments like ours in good condition that are both signed by Miss Deanna and designed by the Margiela founder for a distinct collection--as opposed to the signed knits that she made with other leading fashion designers such as Valentino-- are scarce. Please see our other listings for additional pieces by Martin Margiela as his designs are our favorite to rediscover among vintage overlooked fashion.
  • Designer:
  • Brand:
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: IT 44 (EU)
  • Style:
    Miss Deanna knit (In the Style Of)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. Our photos that best display the true colors of this knit are the torso closeups.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244222684832
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