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Juliette Moutard for René Boivin Art Moderne Suite

About the Item

Dating from June 1938, designed by Juliette Moutard of René Boivin Paris, and created by the workshop of Henri Heugas, these Retro 18K gold and emerald jewels date from the 1930s. The wide bangle with stepped edges is surmounted by three bold ribbon scrolls outlined in calibré-cut emeralds, with clip brooch en suite. Striking and voluminous, fusing the Art Moderne and early Retro sensibilities with strong design, these gleaming gold Boivin forms edged with emeralds exemplify French high jewelry art of the 1930s. Item #: STE-21815 Country: France Circa: 1938 Dimensions: Bracelet: 6.00" internal circumference; Clip: 1.75" length Materials: Calibré-cut emeralds; 18K Gold Signed: Henri Heugas maker's mark (clip), French assay marks Documentation: Accompanied by two authenticity certificates nos. 202502PDE and 202502PDE from René Boivin Joaillier, dated 28 February 2025, identifying the designer and house as Juliette Moutard and René Boivin, and dating the jewels to June 1938. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: Though unsigned and previously unidentified, these bold, sculpted, yet feminine forms, also characterized by exquisite workmanship, called out to our experts as the distinctive work of the women-run Parisian firm of René Boivin. While in command of numerous in-house artisans, the women also collaborated with outside craftsmen such as Henri Heugas, whose maker's mark appears on the clip. According to the scholar Jean-Jacques Richard, Heugas inscribed his hallmark in Paris in 1924 with the letters HH. His workshop was located in the rue des Francs Bourgeois, in the 4th arrondissement (L'Hôtel-de-Ville), and he later relocated to the the 9th, (Ópera), at 20 rue Le Pelletier. Richard describes him as "above all a creator of various models for René Boivin."

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