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Erté Art Deco Style "Beloved Brooch", Circa 1980s



This is a rare, original limited edition Erté silver, 14K yellow gold, mother-of-pearl, and diamond brooch created in the early 1980s. This particular brooch is signed on the back, "© CFA STERLING 14K 182/250" The brooch measures 47.20mm x 36.89mm x 5.10mm The face of the brooch depicts a gorgeously rendered mother-of-pearl woman with an elaborate headpiece, which is studied with 8 tiny bright little diamonds set among expertly-rendered granulation. The glossy black onyx background of the brooch is reiterated with two beveled bars of onyx on both sides of the frame; one on the upper portion, one on the lower. The piece is exquisitely crafted. Erté was a Russian-born French artist who defined the visual aesthetic of the Art Deco era with his iconic illustrations. In 1915 he sold his first cover illustration to Harper's Bazar. He would go on to create over 200 covers for the magazine. In 1979 he agreed to have limited-edition jewels based on his illustrations. The jewelry was created by Circle of Fine Art. 328 original, limited edition jewels were created. There are not many of Erté's fine jewels on the market and this brooch is a favorite.


  • Creator
  • Metal
    14k Gold,Silver
  • Stone
  • Stone Cut
    Round Cut
  • Weight
    24.44 g
  • Dimensions
    Width: 1.46 in. (36.89 mm)Length: 1.86 in. (47.20 mm)
  • Style
    Art Deco
  • Place of Origin
    United States
  • Period
  • Date of Manufacture
  • Condition
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location
    Southbury, CT
  • Reference Number
    1stDibs: LU1589113812912

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping

    Ships From: Southbury, CT
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.

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About the Designer


Born Romain de Tirtoff (1892–1990) in St. Petersburg, Russia, to an aristocratic family, the artist known as Erté — a pseudonym derived from the French pronunciation of his initials — was a Renaissance man of the art and design world. He worked in graphic arts, interior design, fashion, jewelry and set design for the stage and silver screen, becoming a leader of the Art Deco style.

Moving to Paris in 1912, Erté worked as a fashion designer under couturier Paul Poiret before securing a job with Harper’s Bazaar as a cover artist. Over 22 years, Erté created more than 240 magazine covers alongside his ongoing work in fashion design. Extending his prolific career into theater sets, costumes, prints and lithographs, he became one of the most famous artists of the era. Erté’s style — a combination of the nature-inspired flourishes of Art Nouveau and bold, geometric linework — directly contributed to the birth of Art Deco, earning him the nickname “the Father of Art Deco.”

After a lull of creative production in the 1940s and 1950s, Erté reentered the public eye in the 1960s, when a renewed interest in Art Deco had taken shape. Creating colorful lithographs, bold serigraphs (silk-screen prints) and bronze sculptures, he contributed to a resurgence of the style in France and beyond. This late-life acclaim for his art led to exhibitions in museums and galleries all over the world as well as his first published monograph in 1970. That same year he was awarded the title of Chevalier du Mérite Artistique et Cultural and in 1976 was named Officier des Arts et Lettres by the French government. Today, Erté’s works are in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, in New York, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and LACMA in Los Angeles..

On 1stDibs, browse a collection of Erté art, including fine-art prints, paintings and other works.

About the Seller
Located in Southbury, CT
Recognized Seller
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Platinum Seller
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Established in 2011
1stDibs seller since 2019
448 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 2 hours
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