Hermes Silver 'Buckle' Brooch - circa 1950s
View Similar Items
Hermes Silver 'Buckle' Brooch - circa 1950s
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:Silver
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:1950-1959
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1950s
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. It is in excellent vintage condition (the silver is a bit tarnished, but it was my decision not to have it cleaned).
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:Seller: JBr00041stDibs: LU25521113472
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- Art Deco Aquamarine and Diamond BroochLocated in London, GBAn Art Deco aquamarine and diamond brooch, the emerald-cut aquamarine weighing 27 carats between four sections set with baguette-cut diam...Category
Vintage 1930s Unknown Art Deco Brooches
MaterialsAquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
- Victorian Ruby and Diamond Cross Pendant BroochLocated in London, GBA Victorian ruby and diamond cross pendant brooch, the central cushion-cut ruby weighing 1.02 carats, surrounded by a cluster of old-cut diamonds, the arms set with four oval faceted...Category
Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Silver
- Tiffany & Co. 3.00 Carat Diamond Heart PinBy Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYFinely crafted in platinum with round-brilliant cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 3.00 carats. Signed by Tiffany & Co. Dimensions: 1 ⅜ inch long x 1 ¼ inch wideCategory
Vintage 1950s Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Platinum
- Double Heart Diamond & Platinum PinLocated in New York, NYBright and beautiful intertwined double heart pin. Set in platinum. Encrusted with brilliant diamonds. Petite size -- 1" x 1/2." Most endearing. ...Category
Antique Early 1900s American Edwardian Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Platinum
- Vintage Tiffany & Co. 2.30 Carat Diamond Heart BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Dallas, TXNot just for Valentines anymore! This yellow and white gold, 1930's era Tiffany brooch is timeless for any occasion or age. The warm and inviting old European-cut diamonds weigh a total of 2.30 carats and are stated to be VS 1 - VS 2 in clarity. The brooch is secured with a straight pin...Category
Mid-20th Century Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
- Yellow Gold Heart Shape Brooch Features DiamondsLocated in New York, NYElegant 14KT yellow gold heart shape brooch features 3.00 cts of diamonds G-H color, VS clarityCategory
21st Century and Contemporary American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, White Diamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.
How to Spot a Fake Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted — and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. Of course, you don't have to worry about this on 1stDibs, where every seller is highly vetted.