Diamond and Turquoise Brushed 18 Karat Yellow Gold Wavy Link Choker Necklace

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Diamond and Turquoise Brushed 18 Karat Yellow Gold Wavy Link Choker Necklace

About the Item

This extraordinary piece came to us from the estate of a customer's mother. It probably dates to the 1950s or 1960s. The chain links are about ½" long, just slightly curved, so alternating each link's orientation creates a gentle wavy effect that looks great on and integrates beautifully with the center stone segments. Also, because the links are rigid, they have the happy effect of creating a circlet, not an oval, so this piece hangs more like a choker than a necklace. The links are polished on three sides but the fronts have a distinctive brushed finish that is pronounced enough to resemble the bulino finish popularized by Marco Bicego. The five front segments lap onto each other like waves and are connected with clever little hinges to give the necklace just the right amount of movement. The diamonds are original, but the turquoise is our addition (replacing some very scratched and very uninteresting onyx), and we think it gives the necklace a much more contemporary and eye-catching look. The four bezel-set turquoise swirls are about 22mm x 6mm and weigh roughly 3 carats each. These stones were provided by our gem cutter after we approved the color, and we don't know which mine was sourced for them. They're not completely matrix-free, and they show some natural white spots and other variations. The 28 small diamonds in the oxidized center segment range in size from about 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm, and they are arranged in an elaborate bright-cut pavé setting. We estimate the total carat weight of the stones in this segment to be approximately 0.28 carats There are also six 2mm bezel-set diamonds -- about 0.03 carats each - artfully nestled among the turquoise segments. We rate all 34 of the diamonds G-H color and at least VS2 clarity. The total diamond weight is estimated at 0.46 carats. HALLMARKS: The clasp's tongue piece is stamped with a lyre, which is a gold assaying symbol for Israel. The style of the lyre and the shape of its frame indicate the item's purity. A lyre in a four-sided irregular rectangle indicates 18K (but we tested it just to make sure). Above the lyre is an unknown mark. It looks like "8C" + something else, possibly a T or a Y. It could be an "18CT" stamp that's missing it's "1." Some countries spell "karat" with a "c" and it's conceivable that a jeweler might stamp an item for export with an alternative purity mark. But there's no trace evidence of the missing "1", so this isn't a very compelling theory. Also unknown is the meaning of the "4" stamped on the back of the tongue piece. OTHER DETAILS: Length: 16" Closure: The tab closure is perfectly matched to the other links and includes a figure eight lever-style safety catch. Weight: 24.9 grams of which approximately 2.5 grams can reasonably be attributed to the stones. Condition: Polished and ready-to-wear.

Metal:
18k Gold,Yellow Gold
Stone:
White Diamond,Diamond,Turquoise
Stone Cut:
Round Cut
Style:
Contemporary
Place of Origin:
Israel
Period:
Mid-20th Century
Date of Manufacture:
Circa 1950s
Condition:
Replacements made: We replaced the original onyx with turquoise. Polished. Light surface scratches may be visible under a jeweler's loupe. Clasp and safety catch snap tight. Turquoise stones are recent replacements.
Seller Location:
Sherman Oaks, CA
Reference Number:
Seller: FD00171stDibs: LU167317580252