Antique Emerald Diamond Pendant in Gold & Silver with French Hallmarks & Case

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Antique Emerald Diamond Pendant in Gold & Silver with French Hallmarks & Case

About the Item

Very elegant - yet eye catching - this wonderful antique pendant has French hallmarks. Crafted of gold testing between 14K and 18K, along with silver, the pendant features rustic rose cut diamonds and old glowing foil backed beryl/emeralds. Three diamond set bows are accented by a diamond leaf, bezel set emerald and with swaying emerald and diamond drops, below. French hallmarks are on the reverse of this large piece. PLEASE NOTE: I believe that this pendant combines several antique elements from the Georgian and Victorian period. It's missing a few rose cut diamonds which is not very easy to spot, but if you are a purist and prefer all original antique jewelry, this will not be the right piece for you. Approximately 2.25 inches long (53 mm), the pendant has an opulent yet delicate appearance. The upper part of the piece (the three bows with horizontal emerald and the diamond leaf below, are stationary, while the vertical bezel set emeralds dangle and sway and the "V" shaped drop with the pear shaped emerald surrounded by diamonds is also designed to move. I count 6 small missing diamonds within the three bows. Because the diamonds and the setting are rather rustic, they don't jump about as being very noticeable. The diamonds are really very rustic with uneven cuts and mostly appear opaque due to clear inclusions. Some show wear and damage under magnification, and I don't know how many are old replacements. Nevertheless, they are white and twinkly, setting off the emeralds and the motif quite nicely. The four glowy bezel set beryl/emeralds have been tested, and are of various pretty shades of green. The top horizontal one is a pale green beryl color, the two vertical ones have a more classic emerald green color, while the pear shaped one has a very yellow-green hue. As a lover of all things green, I really like the variation, though some may prefer stones that match more in color. All are in closed back settings, most if not all of them likely have foil backings. Measurements of the emeralds are as follows: the pale horizontal stone is approximately 5.3 x 4.2 mm, the rectangular bezel set emeralds are approximately 4.5 x 3 mm and 5 x 3 mm, respectively and the pear shaped emerald is approximately 6.5 x 4 mm. Hallmarks are present on the back of the hidden bail as well as the center of one of the bows. A French shell hallmark and two swan hallmarks are on the back of the bail (indicating 14K gold and a re-mark on second hand goods for silver) and the smaller mark on the back of a bow looks like a maker's mark with two B's. It's easier to see the various parts and how they were assembled from the back. On my scale, the pendant weighs a nice 10.66 grams; despite its feminine and delicate design, it has some good heft to it. The lovely box is English and not original to the pendant. It remains in very good condition, with light wear, mostly on the underside. It's marked on the inside satin lined lid: "By appointment, Diamond Merchants, Rood, 52 & 53 Burlington Arcade, London WI." (Rood was established in 1873 and was acquired by Hancocks & Co. in 1998.)

Metal:
Gold,Silver
Stone:
Beryl,Diamond,Emerald
Stone Cut:
Rose Cut
Weight:
10.66 g
Dimensions:
Width: 1.25 in (31.75 mm)Length: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)
Style:
Victorian
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1820 to 1860
Condition:
Additions or alterations made to the original: I believe that this pendant combines several antique elements, dating from the Georgian into the Victorian period; the coloring of the lovely old beryl/emerald differs making this a very intriguing piece. Wear consistent with age and use. Several small rose cut diamonds are missing, but are not terribly noticeable; otherwise there is light wear - mostly on the reverse - and signs of the pendant being a "marriage" of several antique elements.
Seller Location:
Danvers, MA
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3614219732542