Victorian Demi-Parure of Banded Agate and Pearl

This extravagant French Renaissance Revival "Holbeinesque" demi-parure dating from circa 1870 consists of a day/night girandole pendant earrings and a brooch, both composed of garnets, emeralds, diamonds, seed pearls, enamel and 18K gold. The day/night girandole earpendants are each designed with a shaped top centering a cabochon garnet, with detachable pendants suspending flexibly-set garnet drops and seed pearls, enhanced throughout with step-cut emeralds, old mine-cut diamonds, and black and white champlevé enamel, mounted in 18K gold. An exquisite pair of "girandoles", paired with a luxe brooch, this rare French suite in Holbeinesque taste captures the artist's vision of bold form, extravagant color and movement. Product Details: Item #: STE-21098 Country: France Circa: 1870 Dimensions: Brooch: 2.25" length x 2.00" width, Earrings: 2.00" length x 0.75" width Materials: 9 cabochon and tear-drop form garnets; 16 step-cut emeralds (approximate total weight 1.40 carats); 16 old mine-cut diamonds (approximate total weight 1.20 carats); 23 seed pearls; 18K Gold; Enamel Signed: French assay mark, unidentified maker's mark Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: Hans Holbein the Younger, the German Renaissance painter best known for his portraits of royalty...

This antique Victorian 15K gold demi-parure comprising pendant earrings and pendant brooch with chain is set with over 10.00 carats of cabochon almandine garnets. The elongated pendant earrings are designed as scrolling leaf motif tops, each with an oval cabochon garnet, flexibly suspending a reverse-tapering drop of floral and foliate form set with pear-shape and oval cabochon garnets, en suite with a conforming pendant brooch and delicate rectangular trace link chain. Still stylish today, the lightly voluminous, repoussé forms have an easy, gentle sway, while their soft bloomed gold and saturated red garnets enliven the eyes and face. Product Details: Item #: STE-20655 Artist: James W. Lyon, Edinburgh Country: Scotland Circa: 1860's Dimensions: Earpendants: 3" length; Pendant Brooch: 2.5" length; Chain: 13.5" length Materials: Cabochon almandine garnet (with approximate total weight 6.10 carats); Cabochon almandine garnet (with approximate total weight 4.05 carats); 15K Gold; fitted original box from James W. Lyon, Edinburgh. Literature: A substantially similar demi-parure in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, is pictured in Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria, by Charlotte Gere and Judy Rudoe, p.17. The image of the demi-parure is accompanied by an image of a lithograph of a young Queen Victoria wearing a substantially similar demi-parure. Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes: Queen Victoria, whom the artistic record shows owned a substantially similar demi-paure, was deeply interested in couture and jewelry. Often, she chose to wear jewelry by British makers, in many cases work that was historically inspired and/or sentimental, knowing that her choices were closely observed by the public. These jewels were often relatively modest in value, and accessible to aspiring women of the British middle class. Blood-red cabochon-cut gems have been known throughout history as "carbuncles", and their use in gold jewelry was highly popular in the sentimental, symbolism-loving Victorian period in England. In the 19th century, the new study of of archaeology had revealed that the garnet was a favorite precious stone of the Hellenistic Greeks, who centered carbuncles in wedding jewelry such as gold bracelets and garment appliqués fashioned...

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