Rare 1970s Jaeger Le Coultre Tourbillion Ruby Gold Stainless Steel Stirrup Clock

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Rare 1970s Jaeger Le Coultre Tourbillion Ruby Gold Stainless Steel Stirrup Clock

About the Item

Jaeger Le Coultre Skeletonized 'Triple Flying Tourbillion' Prototype 'Entrier' Stirrup-Form Clock A Prototype by definition is a first, typical or preliminary model of something, especially a machine, from which other forms are developed or copied. At its first production, the Flying Tourbillion, had to overcome many design obstacles. Assembling a carriage in a regular tourbillon is difficult and risky because the escape wheel bridge obstructs fitting the carriage. This led to many broken carriage arbors. The design of this clock allows for thinner movements and simplifies the assembling so it can be made both into a miniaturized form and mass produced in wristwatch form. This clock appears to be the first tourbillon addressing and eliminating this problem by introducing a free-end (flying) escape wheel and free end pallet fork. Here, unlike in other tourbillon's, the escape wheel pinion slips into the engagement with the tourbillon's stationary wheel, eliminating the risk of damage. Due to the difficulty in engineering such a complicated movement, key mechanisms would be more difficult to miniaturize in a fashion that could also be mass assembled in a cost effective way. With the modern fascination with tourbillon's, some manufacturers, notably Lange, IWC, and a few others, have worked on new designs for production-type tourbillon's - ones wherein the carriage rotates only around one end of its arbor, and in others appears "flying" in the air. A new method was needed for its bushing, a constant problem for the few makers (Holland 1902, North 1903, Helwig 1924, and a several others) daring enough to make flying tourbillon's in the past. The logical solution was to implement ball-bearings already used in self winding mechanisms, known in rough form since 1929. However, the precision required in tourbillon's was much higher, requiring special lubrication precautions, and therefore difficult to assemble on a mass level in a smaller size. Both the escape wheel and the pallet fork run in a single bearing, the fork in ball bearing, the wheel in a double-jewel ruby bearings within this production-type prototype. It is the first known "flying" tourbillon to run in ball bearings with two additional "flying" components - the pallet fork and the escape wheel - a "triple flying" tourbillon. The other ends are free, or flying, in the same fashion as they were first created by their inventor, Albert Helwig (1886-1974), who was the technical director of the Deutsche Uhrmacherschule. The clock is revolutionary in its design as this design was later implemented in one form or other in some of the most important flying tourbillon's, such as IWC's "Da Vinci", the most complicated of them all, and Dunand, Vulcain, which made a stunning entry at the Basel Fair, and more. Ultimately as the industry succeeded the technical obstacles , observers and collectors alike see this internal alignment in some of the most stunning flying tourbillon wristwatches. The concept's humble beginning started with this clock. Also interesting to note is the case design known as The Étrier (Stirrup) model which was designed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1933. Upon creation, the Entrier form clock used the caliber 201, a typical circular movement hanging on a leather ribbon from the stirrup's slot. With the development of the caliber 210 in 1938, the Étrier model began its present skeletonized form. The Caliber 250, an improved version of the 210, was introduced in 1979 and The present example is from the early series, since subsequent caliber 250's were rhodium plated and caliber 210's were not. The evolutionary design of this movement marks the progression out of the caliber 210 and into the caliber 250 as Jaeger Lecoultre sought to gain entry way into the flying tourbillion wristwatch marketspace that required a higher level of master technical acumen to mass produce Additional Information: Year Circa 1980. Case No. 3’215’006 Material Stainless steel Calibre Mechanical, 16 jewels Dimensions 150 mm. length, 120 mm. width 40 mm. depth Case, dial and movement signed

Creator:
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Metal:
18k Gold,Stainless Steel
Stone:
Ruby
Dimensions:
Width: 5.91 in (150 mm)Length: 4.73 in (120 mm)
Style:
Modern
Place of Origin:
Switzerland
Period:
1970-1979
Date of Manufacture:
1970s
Condition:
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU121237807182

Shop All Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The exquisite art of watchmaking is on display in the distinctive designs of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Swiss manufacturer is celebrated for its striking Art Deco–era antique clocks, while its range of sumptuous luxury watches spans the gamut of modern design, each one a time capsule of its period.

Jaeger-LeCoultre was established in 1833 by watchmaker Antoine LeCoultre in the Vallée de Joux of the Swiss mountains. LeCoultre was also an inventor who, in 1844, created the millionomètre. As the first instrument to measure thousandths of a millimeter with total accuracy, it refined the meticulous watchmaking process. By 1866, LeCoultre's son, Elie LeCoultre, took over the business. He revolutionized watchmaking by bringing all 180 skills involved in the trade into one workshop: LeCoultre & Cie Manufacture.

By 1903, the company had passed to Antoine LeCoultre's grandson, Jacques-David LeCoultre. He created a signature line of ultra-thin watches in partnership with Edmond Jaeger, a French watchmaker who specialized in flat watch cases. In 1907, Louis Cartier signed a contract with Jaeger so that Cartier would have movements for its popular timepieces produced exclusively at LeCoultre in Switzerland. This era saw the debut of Cartier’s Santos as well as its Tank watch.

Watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre began to experiment with the Art Deco style that had encompassed the 1920s and the 1930s. At the time, there were many influences that led to the creation of Art Deco jewelry, while the cases of Art Deco clocks featured architectural details and saw an integration of materials such as brass, glass and marble. Iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre designs from this era include the 1928 Atmos clock and the Reverso watch. Stylish and practical, the coveted Reverso watch features a case that you can flip to protect the watch face.

During the 1950s and '60s, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers continued the manufacturer’s tradition of prioritizing practical reliability. In 1958, the company introduced the robust and durable Geophysic watch collection. The Memovox Polaris, an alarm-equipped dive watch one could wear underwater, followed in 1968.

The best-known timepiece in the company's modern collection is the Master Control watch, unveiled in 1992. It symbolizes a return to the thin style and performance-first ethic of classic Jaeger-LeCoultre. In 2018, the watchmaker also launched the Polaris collection. Inspired by the original Memovox, the series features a sporty, elegant and contemporary look.

Find vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatches and pocket watches on 1stDibs.