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Antique Diamond & Scarlet Guilloche Enamel Ring with Provenance

Antique Diamond & Scarlet Guilloche Enamel Ring with Provenance

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Antique Diamond & Scarlet Guilloche Enamel Ring with Provenance

About the Item

I’m happy to offer this charm filled antique diamond and enamel ring that also comes with wonderful provenance. I believe this piece is more suited for special event/occasional wear due to its age and delicacy. Crafted of silver and rose gold that tests around 9K to 10K, the ring features a striking scarlet red Guilloche enamel plaque set to the center with a fiery old mine cut diamond, surrounded by rustic and twinkling old rose cut diamonds. Another collet set rose cut diamond is set at each shoulder, with lovely period details. Definitely antique and with good provenance, this ring may originally have been a Georgian to early Victorian mourning ring, as I am not certain that the enamel plaque is the original center to the diamond surround. It is, however, extremely striking and beautiful in this piece. Measuring approximately 2.3 x 2.1 mm, the center diamond is a chunky old mine cut held within 5 rose gold prongs. I would estimate it at approximately .05 to .07 carats, though the setting doesn't allow for precise measurement of the depth of the stone. Very fiery, it contrasts beautifully with the scarlet color of the enamel. I would judge its color to be in the I-J range of near-colorless, though it faces up even more white. Completely eye-clean, it also has very good clarity under magnification and remains in very good antique condition. (it could use a bit of cleaning, though. I have not cleaned or polished this old piece, as some prefer to receive things in "as found" condition.) I do see some old solder around the base of the setting with magnification, and since one would usually expect a collet or bezel set stone, I do believe this is not the original diamond or setting. I'm sure it would have originally been a rose cut diamond - though I have to say that this mine cut has wonderful color and fire that works very well with the enamel work. I love the sunburst style of the Guilloche enamel (which is more crisp in real life than in my photos) - as well as the vivid glow of the scarlet color. It shows a little wear - mostly under magnification, but there is one small chip at an edge that can be seen with the naked eye. The enamel is still present in that spot, though, so it isn't terribly noticeable. The size of the enamel plaque is approximately 8 x 6 mm, and it moves slightly within its setting. Eighteen rustic rose cut diamonds in closed back settings create the charming halo surrounding the diamond set plaque. Varying in size and cut, most are very chunky, while two look more like old replacement flat cut diamond slices. Ranging in size from approximately 1.5 to 2 mm in diameter, they also range a bit in clarity and wear. Some are very clean and show no damage, and some show a few inclusions and chips/damage. Some are certainly old replacements. Together they provide just the right amount of period twinkle, glow and sparkle. On each shoulder is another rustic rose/flat cut diamond in a substantial silver setting, measuring approximately 1.8 mm in diameter. Prettily detailed elongated triangular silver ornaments extend down the center of the split shank shoulders from the edge of the diamond's settings, with the rose gold impressed to either side. The band is in good antique condition, showing some expected wear and signs of having been sized in the past. It gives the ring more of an oval shape (which is actually very comfortable since it is closer in shape to an actual finger.) A bit of old solder is visible inside the band at the join of each shoulder. The finished weight of the ring is 3.25 grams. Currently size 9.25, the ring can be sized within reason (a few sizes either way) by a skilled jeweler who is comfortable working with antique jewelry. Provenance: This ring came to me from the shop collection of Edith Weber Antique Jewelry of NYC. Edith and her son, Barry, were widely respected antique jewelry experts, and Barry was often seen doing appraisals on the Antiques Roadshow. Stars often wore Edith and Barry's pieces to the Academy Awards and other special events.

Ring Size:
9.25 US, Resizable
Metal:
Gold,Silver,Enamel
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Rose Cut
Weight:
3.25 g
Style:
Georgian
Place of Origin:
Unknown
Period:
19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1820 to 1850s
Condition:
Replacements made: The band has been replaced (or added) likely sometime in the Victorian period. Likewise, I believe the central old mine cut diamond is an old replacement, and a few diamonds are likely old replacements, as well. Additions or alterations made to the original: It's possible the ring was an old mourning piece that originally had a locket compartment, that was replaced with the enamel plaque. The central diamond most likely would have originally been a rose cut; the band has been replaced or added long ago. Wear consistent with age and use. The diamonds show expected wear, with some damage.
Seller Location:
Danvers, MA
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3614219765112

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