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Art Deco Old Cut Diamond Target Ring with Synthetic Blue Sapphire

About the Item

Dating to the Art Deco period, this old cut diamond and synthetic sapphire ring has a fantastic design and very striking presence on the hand. Crafted of platinum & 14K yellow and white gold, the ring features a striking filigree geometric design set with 9 old European cut diamonds and 8 step cut synthetic lab-made blue Sapphires. The total estimated carat weight is approximately .62 carats. Bezel-set at the center of the “target” style platinum setting is a bright and very fiery old European cut diamond measuring approximately 3.5 mm in diameter. Estimated to weigh approximately .16 carats, the diamond has great sparkle and life. The color has been judged to be I in the near-colorless range, with SI1 clarity that is clean to the naked eye. It has a good cut and is in lovely original condition; I see no nicks, chips or scratches; the bezel also remains in good condition, though only slight signs of the old milgrain edging remain. (Though the milgrain could be redone, if desired) Above, below and to either side of the central diamond are pairs of smaller old European cut diamonds in a ray or cross like pattern. Measuring approximately 1.8 to 2.00 mm in diameter for a total estimated carat weight of approximately .22 carats, these are very bright and sparkly diamonds with a good cut. Nicely matched, they have color in the H-I range of near-colorless with nice eye-clean clarity. I see one or perhaps two teeny tiny chips which gives a clarity rating of SI1 to I1 for the chip that can be spotted under magnification with careful scrutiny. (it's really rather hidden) Their bead settings are in good condition with only a little expected wear. Again, I think there was originally milgrain edging the settings, that has smoothed over time. The step cut square blue synthetic lab-made Sapphires (which were all the rage during this period) are channel-set and create a wonderful contrast with the white sparkle of the diamonds. Measuring approximately 1.8 - 2.00 mm, (estimated with a total carat weight of .24 carats, the Sapphires have a beautiful rich blue color. (GOA vB 6/4, slightly included, type II, medium dark, moderately strong violetish blue color with a good cut) They remain in good condition with only very slight wear visible under magnification. I believe one sapphire is likely an old replacement. (its table is a little smaller, which is hard to spot unless you are comparing the sapphires under magnification.) The channel settings are in good vintage condition, with only very slight signs of milgrain edging that I can see under magnification. Pretty open work filigree decorates the spaces between the Sapphires and diamonds, with a stylized “x” type of design. The ring came to me with a damaged gallery, which was presumably done when the sapphire was replaced sometime long ago. I’ve had a nice solid gallery rebuilt for the ring in 14K white gold. With a sizable and substantial presence on the hand, the face of the ring measures approximately 15.72 mm or just under 5/8 of an inch. The rise off the finger is approximately 5.7 mm at the highest point - the top of the central diamond’s table. It weighs 4.64 grams on my scale. The band has a rosy-yellow gold color with split style shoulders and remains in good condition. There are some signs of it having been sized in the past and I suspect the ring was reshanked (a new band put on) sometime in the ring's past; no hallmarks are present but I have tested the gold for purity. Currently sized for a larger sized finger, it’s a size 10 on my sizing mandrel but fits a little larger – more like a size 10.75 to 11. It can be sized down within reason or a new smaller size band could be put on for a dramatically smaller size. A ring with a wonderful period design - I think it would be easily worn by a man or by a woman.

Ring Size:

10 US, Resizable

Metal:

14k Gold,Platinum

Stone:

Diamond,Blue Sapphire

Stone Cut:

Old European Cut

Weight:

4.64 g

Style:

Art Deco

Period:

20th Century

Date of Manufacture:

circa 1920s

Condition:

Replacements made: I believe one blue sapphire is an old replacement. It's possible that the ring was reshanked sometime in the past. Repaired: I've repaired the gallery which had been damaged; the ring shows some signs of having been resized and possibly reshanked, as well. I believe one blue sapphire is an old replacement. Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Danvers, MA

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU3614220043062

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