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Rare Post-Medieval Diamond and Enamel Ring, circa 1550-1650
About the Item
Rare Post-Medieval Diamond and Enamel Ring. Set with a square table cut diamond in a closed back bezel setting, to an exceptional solitaire design featuring intricate enamel detailing to the bezel and carved shoulders with scrolling vine motifs and further traces of enamel, flowing through to a solid square shank. Tested yellow gold, circa 1550-1650.
This ring was discovered by a metal detectorist in Wealden, near Sheffield Green (East Sussex) in 2023 . It has been recorded on the Portable Antiquities Scheme database Ref: SUSS-EEFEA6 and disclaimed as Treasure under reference 2023T531.
This piece is a rare survival from a time when diamond rings were uncommon, due to their cost and inaccessibility, with the only source of diamonds found in India. With so few made, it is no surprise that known diamond rings of this age and calibre have been acquired by museums, with few being discovered today. This ring, unearthed in such fine condition, has been disclaimed under the Treasure Act and is accompanied by paperwork from the Portable Antiques Scheme, documentation highly coveted amongst collectors and investors of early jewellery.
It represents an incredible opportunity to own a piece of significant historical value, the likes of which are rarely found on the open market.
An exceptional example of post-medieval craftsmanship, this ring exemplifies the fine jewellery of the era, and the increasing globalisation that aided its creation. The diamond very likely hailed from the old mines in India, where production peaked in the 1600s, and would thereafter have traversed the silk road to reach continental Europe to be cut. Whilst the setting restricts accurate measurements being taken of the stone, it is likely that this diamond weighs between 0.50-1.00 carats.
This ring would undoubtedly have been worn as an indicator of wealth and status, but it could also be suggested that this ring holds deeper symbolic meanings. The tri-enamel detailing to each side of the bezel could represent the holy trinity, and there are further religious connections in the colour of the enamel, once white, which is associated with purity and innocence. Furthermore, the vine scrolling detail to the shoulders, which was typical of the era, symbolises Christ as the True Vine, and rebirth, in Christian tradition.
Comparable examples can be found, mostly in museum settings. One such ring, now in the Museum of London was part of the Cheapside Hoard which dates to the 17th century. This ring also features white enamel decoration around the band and is set with a table cut diamond. Another similar ring on display at the V&A also showcases a similar square box bezel setting and enamel detailing to the bezel, as does another post-medieval diamond ring unearthed and declared under the Portable Antiquities Scheme ref: SUR-ED1CD5. These similarities suggest a homogenised approach to the design and creation of diamond rings between the late 16th and early 17th centuries.
- Ring Size:7 US, Resizable
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:2.52 g
- Style:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:c. 1550-1650
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:Seller: 293181stDibs: LU18626073302
Resizing is available.
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