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Antique Rose Cut Garnet & Green Paste Gold Ring with Hand Engraving

About the Item

Wonderful color & glow combine with intricate floral engraving in this dainty antique garnet and paste ring. It is estimated to date to the 1850's. Crafted of gold testing around 9K (with a bloomed/gilded finish), the ring features an elegant three stone design with a central rose cut garnet, and glowing cushion shaped green pastes to either side. Lovely, detailed engraving of flowers and leaves sets off the glowing foil-backed stones beautifully. Measuring approximately 6.8 x 5.8 mm, the rose cut garnet is set in a closed back setting that presumably has foil backing. It has a rich claret color, with pretty glow and flashes of rich deep pink-red when it is moved in the light. With some expected surface wear along the facets and a very small chip at the edge of the stone (the girdle) that can be seen under magnification, the gem remains in good, though not perfect, antique condition. It looks beautiful to the naked eye. There are 8 small prongs that do show wear, though the stone seems secure for now. I love the contrast provided by the glowing green pastes that look so much like fine old emeralds. Each has a chunky old cushion shape-meets-emerald style cut that is absolutely charming. Measuring approximately 4.8 x 4.2 mm and 4.6 x 4.2 mm, respectively, they have wonderful classic emerald color that catches the light. While they show some wear to the edges of their tables, they are also in very nice antique condition within their closed back settings. One paste has 6 prongs and the other has 5, all of which show varying degrees of wear, though again, they do seem securely set right now. (I always advise keeping an eye on settings of both new and antique jewelry, so they can be tightened and/or re-tipped as needed, before you risk the loss of a stone) A delicate scrolling wire design flows between the garnet cabochon and the green pastes, top and bottom, leading the eye to the fancily decorated shoulders. A single large flower is engraved at each shoulder, with stylized leaves and scrolling vines engraved all the way around the band. While some of the bloomed/gilded surface of the gold shows a lot of wear, allowing the lower karat gold to show through - the engraving remains crisp and very clear to see and enjoy. The face of the ring measures approximately 16 x 8 mm, giving the piece a very nice presence on the hand. The rise off the finger is approximately 3.9 mm, keeping it quite comfortable and easy to wear. No hallmarks are present (which is not unusual for antique rings) and I have not cleaned the piece. If you would like me to give it a light clean and polish before shipment please message me to let me know. (** Please Note: antique jewelry with closed foil backed settings should not be cleaned in/with liquids. It's best to avoid moisture as much as possible, as it can discolor or damage foil backings. I see no discoloration in any of these settings - so, either there are no foil backings or the pervious owners have been very good caretakers. Cleaning can be done with a soft bristle old toothbrush, a dry cloth and a polishing cloth for the gold) Overall, the condition remains good and the ring is certainly wearable. I would suggest it not be used for everyday wear, since the stones are likely foil backed and it was made in a fairly delicate style. Very comfortable on the finger with its slightly more oval than round shape, the band was carefully sized in the past and done quite nicely so that it's very difficult to see the design was ever interrupted. (though its visible in my macro photos, it's nearly undetectable to the naked eye) The finished weight is a dainty 1.80 grams. Currently size 6.75 - 7, the ring can be carefully sized by a good jeweler. If it is sized down, a skilled jeweler should be able to match up the engraving to minimize any interruption (as was done previously) and if it were to be sized up I would expect either a small polished area at the very back, or additional engraving could be done to match the existing engraving.
  • Ring Size:
    7 US, Resizable
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    1.8 g
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    circa 1855
  • Condition:
    Additions or alterations made to the original: The ring shows signs of having been carefully sized in the past. Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Danvers, MA
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3614220353652
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