Ancient Greek Pendant Coin Grapes

Using ancient coins and traditional Balinese gem setting techniques, Steven Battelle’s jewelry offers history in the palm of your hand. The American jewelry designer and his team create pieces inspired by and incorporating historic coinage and materials used in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia.

Battelle first encountered cabochon stones, which are gemstones polished and shaped rather than faceted, on a trip to Southeast Asia in 1987. A predecessor of modern jewelry, cabochons inspired Battelle to pursue a jewelry hobby while continuing to work as a veterinarian for exotic animals. 

He became fascinated with the ornamentation styles used by ancient Majapahit Java and Siam cultures, eventually transitioning from veterinarian work to designing jewelry full-time. He developed a partnership with Balinese jewelry makers, a collaboration which became a key component in realizing his designs. 

The Balinese partners hand-make each piece using traditional methods that have been passed down for generations. While conventional blow torches and modern tools are used in much of the work, the heart of the jewelry’s creation is grounded in an artisanal approach. 

On 1stDibs, find a collection of Steven Battelle rings, earrings, necklaces and more.

We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners.

Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers. 

In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs. 

For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone. 

Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage necklaces designed by David Webb — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt. 

On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.