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Edwardian Belle Époque Ruby Diamond Bow Necklace
Located in Miami Beach, FL
A rare and delicately crafted antique turn of the century Edwardian Belle Époque necklace pendant
Category

Early 20th Century Belle Époque Drop Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver

Belle Epoque Rubies Pearls Rose-cut Diamonds Brooch Pendant, 1900
Located in Herzelia, Tel Aviv
Belle Époque Brooch & Pendant with Rubies, Pearls, and tiny Rose-cut Diamonds. Elegant and
Category

Early 20th Century French Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby

French belle Epoque ruby diamond 18k yellow gold and platinum cluster earrings
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
These exquisite French Belle Epoque earrings feature vivid oval rubies surrounded by rose cut
Category

Vintage 1910s Belle Époque Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

French Belle Epoque ruby diamond 18k yellow gold and platinum cluster ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This enchanting French Belle Epoque ring features a cushion cut ruby framed by rose cut diamonds
Category

Vintage 1910s Belle Époque Cluster Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Platinum, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

French Belle Epoque Ruby Diamond Floral Pattern 18 Karat Yellow Gold Brooch
Located in Poitiers, FR
century. Our opinion : This beautiful antique Belle Epoque brooch is in perfect condition. Specialized in
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

20th Century Rubies Diamonds 18 Karat Yellow Gold Platinum Round Ring
Located in Poitiers, FR
- Work from the beginning of the 20th century. Our opinion : A refined yet easy-to-wear Belle Epoque
Category

Early 20th Century European Belle Époque Engagement Rings

Materials

Ruby, White Diamond, Diamond, Platinum, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Belle Epoque Diamond Ruby Gold and Silver Brooch
Located in Napoli, NA
Wonderful Belle Epoque brooch in 12 kt gold and silver with sparkling rose-cut diamonds (approx
Category

Antique 1880s European Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 10k Gold

Belle Époque Spider Ruby Diamond 14kt Gold Brooch
Located in Munich, Bavaria
head and a ruby of aproximately 0.60 carats as it's body.
Category

Antique 1890s Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold

Belle Époque French ruby diamond 18k yellow silver ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This Belle Époque ring blends 0.70 carats of vibrant rubies with sparkling rose cut diamonds
Category

Vintage 1910s Belle Époque Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Belle Epoque Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Ring w Openwork Band
Located in Baltimore, MD
Paris in the Belle Époque was a period in the history of the city between the years 1871 to 1914
Category

Antique 19th Century French Belle Époque More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold

Belle Epoque Diamond Barrette Brooch
Located in Geneva, CH
Platinum and 18K yellow gold barrette brooch set with rose-cut diamonds and a red stone. Missing a diamond. Length: 6.30 cm. Gross weight: 4.70g.
Category

Early 20th Century Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Belle Époque 0.40ct Ruby and Diamond Trilogy Ring, c.1910s
Located in London, GB
18 carat yellow gold completes the Belle Époque piece. Gemstone: Ruby Stone Shape: Old Cut Carat
Category

Vintage 1910s French Belle Époque Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Belle Epoque Platinum & Gold Aquamarine Ruby Diamond and Pearl Pin Brooch
Located in Montclair, NJ
): Pin w/ Rotating Closure Condition: Antique Belle Époque. All original. 1 Ruby is missing - not
Category

Antique 19th Century Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Aquamarine, Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, Platinum

Bohemian Garnet Emerald Ruby Enamel Locket French Belle Epoque Museum Quality
Located in New York, NY
This is one of the finest Belle Epoque - Victorian Bohemian Locket Pendants we have seen. The
Category

Antique 19th Century French Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, Emerald, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel

Trilogy Clover Belle Époque Ring, 18-Carat Gold, Natural Diamonds & Rubies
Located in PARIS, FR
This antique trilogy ring, dating back to the Belle Époque era (circa 1900), is crafted in 18-carat
Category

Early 20th Century Belle Époque Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

18ct Gold & Platinum, Edwardian Belle Epoque Diamond & Ruby Bow Shaped Pendent
Located in Brighton, GB
Belle Epoque Pendant/Brooch 18ct Gold & Platinum Tested Circa 1910 Indulge in the elegance of
Category

Early 20th Century European Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum

62 Ct Bohemian Garnet Cabochon Ruby Bracelet French Belle Epoque Museum Quality
Located in New York, NY
and dates to the Belle Epoque period. We have a matching locket pendant in another listing. The
Category

Antique 19th Century French Belle Époque Link Bracelets

Materials

Garnet, Ruby, Silver, Sterling Silver

Belle Époque Antique Diamond Ruby Scroll Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
bright white old cushion cut diamond (approximately 0.30 ct) flanked by two natural rubies (approximately
Category

Early 20th Century French Edwardian More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby

Belle Epoque natural ruby diamond navette ring in 18k gold and silver
Located in PARIS, FR
Ruby diamond marquise ring in rose gold 18 karats and silver. Antique ring centred by a line of
Category

Antique 1890s French Belle Époque Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Belle Époque Style 2.12 Carat Diamond Ruby 18K Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
the Style of Belle Époque Circa: 2020's Hallmarks: Stone Weight Engraved Size: 6 3/4 and can be
Category

Vintage 1920s Belle Époque Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Belle Epoque Certified Burma Ruby No Heat Diamond Engraved Gold Ring
Located in Napoli, NA
No Heat Ruby 1.29 carat, and surrounded by two colorless round old mine cut diamonds, 0,20 carats
Category

Vintage 1910s European Belle Époque Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Belle Epoque Style Platinum 1.16 Carat Ruby 1.06 Carat Diamond Pendant Necklace
By Baume
Located in Poitiers, FR
the spirit of Belle Epoque jewelry. Our opinion: A delicate and elegant realization. Specialized in
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, P...

French Rose Cut Diamond Ruby Heart Pendant Belle Epoque 18 Karat Gold Flower
Located in New York, NY
This is a stunning and rare antique Heart motif French Belle Epoque Rose Cut Diamond and Ruby 18
Category

Antique 19th Century French Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

1890 Belle Èpoque Dog Yorckshire Terrier Stickpin 18 Kt Platinum Diamond Ruby
Located in Munich, Bavaria
. The lovely animal has with ruby eyes, a golden snout and a pink enamelled tongue. It's head is set
Category

Antique 1880s French Belle Époque More Jewelry

Materials

Diamond, Platinum, Enamel

1890s Belle Epoque Diamond Ruby Platinum Yellow Gold Earrings
Located in New York, NY
A rare Belle Epoque drop earrings featuring natural round old-mine diamond center stones - weighing
Category

Antique Late 19th Century French Victorian Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Belle Epoque Fleur De Lys Ring with Rubies and Diamonds, France, early XX cent.
Located in Chorzów, PL
Old gold ring with rubies and diamonds made of 18-karat gold and platinum elements. The ring is
Category

Early 20th Century French Belle Époque Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Platinum, 18k Gold

Belle Époque 0.50ct Diamond and Ruby Drop Earrings, c.1880s
Located in London, GB
Hailing from 1880s these Belle Époque era drop earrings are stunning. Each earring is paved with
Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver

Art Nouveau Rose Cut Diamond Ruby Necklace Belle Époque Pendant
Located in New York, NY
This is an extraordinary museum quality Art Nouveau, Belle Epoque Pendant Necklace set with Rose
Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold

La Belle Epoque Pearl & Ruby Platinum Overlaid Yellow Gold Necklace
Located in Seattle, WA
to all the pieces. You're looking at an original French La Belle Epoque Victorian pendant, stamped
Category

Antique Early 1900s French Late Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Platinum

Belle Époque Snake Coconut Palm Tree Diamond Ruby Pearls 18 Karat Two-Color Gold
Located in Munich, Bavaria
rubys set eyes is looking up to the treetop which has multicoloured pearls as coconuts. The foot of the
Category

Antique 1890s Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold

Belle Époque 0.60ct Diamond and Pearl Cat Brooch, c.1880s
Located in London, GB
This Antique French cat brooch, dates to the 1880s, Belle Époque period. The brooch features two
Category

Antique 1880s French Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Pearl, Silver, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Eagle Ruby Pearl Pendant 14 Karat Gold Antique Belle Epoque Victorian
Located in New York, NY
A wonderful antique Belle Epoque, Victorian pendant in the form of a beautifully modeled eagle set
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold

Ruby Rose Cut Diamond Pearl Necklace Antique Art Deco Belle Epoque Pendant
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A RARE NATURAL RUBY, ROSE CUT DIAMOND AND PEARL ART DECO TO BELLE EPOQUE NECKLACE. THE
Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, 14k Gold

Belle Époque/Art Nouveau Bracelet with Opals, Pearls and Diamonds by Rothmuller
By Karl Rothmüller
Located in Lucerne, CH
awarded both a silver and a bronze medal. Designed as a delicate combination of Belle Epoque and Art
Category

Early 20th Century German Belle Époque Chain Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Opal, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

1920s French Art Deco Ruby Diamond Platinum Cufflinks, Paris
Located in St. Catharines, ON
cabochon ruby surrounded by six rose diamonds, attached by small oval link platinum chains. French, 1920s
Category

Vintage 1920s French Belle Époque Cufflinks

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Vintage Dragon Carved Jadeite Topas Ruby 18 Karat Gold Brooch with Pendant
Located in Munich, Bavaria
greenish yellow pear shaped topaz and two round rubies. This most extraordinary piece of jewellery is
Category

Antique 1890s Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Ruby, Topaz

Antique Diamond Ruby Emerald Butterfly Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
brooch is embellished with bright white old European and old mine cut diamonds, rubies and emeralds
Category

Early 20th Century German Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver

Antique French 18K Gold, Lapis, & Ruby Figural Owl Stickpin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
detailed three-dimensional owl with ruby cabochon eyes perched atop a lapis lazuli orb. Simply a wonderful
Category

Early 20th Century French Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Lapis Lazuli, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Art Nouveau Ruby Diamond 14K Gold Ring
Located in Munich, Bavaria
decorated with an oval ruby surrounded by eight diamonds. Four leaves enclose two smaller rubies. The
Category

Antique 1890s European Belle Époque Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold

Antique Austrian Burma Ruby, Diamond and Silver-Upon-Gold Brooch, Circa 1890
Located in London, GB
An antique, Austrian, Burma ruby and diamond chequerboard brooch, with French-cut rubies, in claw
Category

Antique 1890s Austrian Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Silver

Antique 18 Karat Gold Link Bracelet Ruby Diamond Platinum French Eternity Knots
Located in Munich, Bavaria
stone. Nine links are set with rubies, one ruby set link doubles as clasp. The rubies are set in gold
Category

Antique 1880s French Belle Époque Link Bracelets

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, Gold, Platinum

Old French Trilogy ring with ruby and diamonds 0.34ct
Located in Chorzów, PL
-red ruby weighing 0.25ct surrounded by two bright brilliant-cut diamonds (color/purity H-I/VS2) with a
Category

Vintage 1910s French Belle Époque Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold

Bochic “Capri” Ruby & Tanzanite Clip on Earrings Set in 22k Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Capri” Ruby & Tanzanite Clip on Earrings set in 22K Gold & Silver Beautiful Natural Red
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Tanzanite, 22k Gold, Silver

Bochic “Orient” Pastel & Red Rubies Earrings Set In 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Orient” Pastel & Red Rubies Earrings Set In 18K Gold & Silver Red Oval Shape Rubies - 17
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

Handcraft Yellow Gold 9 Carats Micro Pearls Rubies Beaded Bracelets
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
micro freshwater pearls and rubies. The Bracelet is part of a set, and the price quoted here refers only
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Belle Époque Beaded Bracelets

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Handcraft Yellow Gold 9 Carats Micro Pearls Rubies Drop Earring
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
freshwater pearls and rubies. The earring is part of a set, and the price quoted here refers only to it
Category

Vintage 1960s Italian Belle Époque Drop Earrings

Materials

Pearl, Ruby, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Serpent Snake Belt Buckle Cabochon Rubies
Located in New York, NY
Antique French 18 Karat Yellow Gold Serpent Snake Belt Buckle Cabochon Rubies 30.38 grams W
Category

Antique Late 19th Century French Belle Époque Figurines and Sculptures

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bochic “Capri” Ruby, Labradorite & Rutile Quartz Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Capri” Ruby, Labradorite & Rutile Quartz Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver Natural Red Ruby
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Cocktail Rings

Bochic “Orient” Natural Ruby & Emerald Flower Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Orient” Natural Ruby & Emerald Flower Ring Set In 18K Gold & Silver Natural Oval Shape
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Cocktail Rings

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Bochic “Orient” Natural African Ruby & Diamond Ring Set In 18K Yellow Gold
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Orient” Natural African Ruby & Diamond Ring Set In 18K Yellow Gold African Natural Gem
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Butterfly brooch in Gold and Silver with Emeralds, Sapphires, Rubies and Diamond
Located in Lisboa, PT
Butterfly-shaped brooch, naturalistic design in gold and silver, set with 6 cabochon rubies, 5
Category

Early 20th Century Portuguese Belle Époque Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, Silver

Bochic “Capri “ Candy Drop Earrings, Natural Ruby, Amethyst & Topaz
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic Earrings Drop style Natural Pink Star Ruby Cabochons 18 Carats Shape - Cabochon Natural
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Drop Earrings

Materials

Amethyst, Ruby, Topaz, 22k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

Bochic “Capri” Red Ruby & Purple Amethyst Bangle Set in 22k Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Capri” Red Ruby & Purple Amethyst Bangle Set In 22K Gold & Silver Bochic Multi Gem “Capri
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Bangles

Materials

Amethyst, Ruby, 22k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

20th Century Diamonds Ruby 18 Karat Yellow Gold Cross Pendant
Located in Poitiers, FR
setting star of 5 rose- cut diamonds and in the center, of a cushion- cut ruby. Height : 3.5 cm, width
Category

20th Century French Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bochic “Capri” Red Ruby & White Topaz Bangle Set In 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Capri” Red Ruby & White Topaz Bangle Set In 18K Gold & Silver Bochic Multi Gem “Capri
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Asian Belle Époque Bangles

Materials

Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

Bochic “Orient” Ruby & White Topaz Stud Clip Earrings Set 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Orient” Ruby & White Topaz Earrings Set 18K Gold & Silver Natural Rubies - 9 carat
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

Bochic “Capri” Ruby, Sapphire, Amethyst & Peridot Necklace in 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Capri” Ruby, Sapphire,Amethyst, Aquamarine & Peridot Necklace in 18K Gold & Silver Ruby
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Choker Necklaces

Materials

Amethyst, Peridot, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Silver

Bochic "Orient" Lemon Quartz , Topaz & Rubies In 18K Gold & Silver Set
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic "Orient" Lemon Quartz , Topaz & Rubies In 18K Gold & Silver Set Necklace: Blue Topaz - 12
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Drop Necklaces

Materials

Quartz, Ruby, Topaz, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

Bochic “Capri” Red Ruby & Purple Amethyst Bangle Set in 22k Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Capri” Red Ruby & Purple Amethyst Bangle Set In 22K Gold & Silver Bochic Multi Gem “Capri
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Bangles

Materials

Amethyst, Ruby, 22k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

Bochic “Orient” Blue Opal & Red Ruby Earrings Set In 18K Gold & Silver
By Bochic
Located in New York, NY
Bochic “Orient” Blue Opal & Red Ruby Earrings Set In 18K Gold & Silver Oval Cut Natural Ruby
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Thai Belle Époque Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Opal, Ruby, 18k Gold, Gold Plate, Silver

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Belle Epoque Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact belle epoque ruby you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. Our collection of these items for sale includes 174 vintage editions and 17 modern creations to choose from as well. Finding the perfect belle epoque ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. For this particular piece, 1 Carat and 1.5 Carat are consistently popular carat weights. Creating a belle epoque ruby has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by Boucheron, Esther Eyre and SCALA GIOIELLI are consistently popular. Today, if you’re looking for a rose cut version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes round cut and old european cut alternatives. Most of our belle epoque ruby for sale are for women, but there are 42 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much is a Belle Epoque Ruby?

On average, a belle epoque ruby at 1stDibs sells for $5,000, while they’re typically $450 on the low end and $130,000 for the highest priced versions of this item.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.