Cartier 1970 Sculptural Retro And Modernist Bold Ring

Bold, vibrant and full of life, the remarkably ebullient gold jewelry of French brand Jean Mahie has dazzled collectors from the moment it first appeared. Featuring motifs derived from classical mythology and ancient architecture, Jean Mahie earrings, necklaces, bracelets and other accessories are characterized by sinuous lines and simple, primordial shapes.  

Painter and sculptor Jacline Mazard was at loose ends with her art career when her father-in-law, sculptor and goldsmith Jean-Marie Mazard, recognized her potential and invited her to join him in his workshop in the South of France. Self-taught, Jean-Marie Mazard shared his love of working with gold with his daughter-in-law, and the pair began collaborating in 1969 under the name Jean Mahie. 

A shrewd businessman, Jean-Marie Mazard focused on efforts to market the pair’s striking creations, and with the support of a public relations executive, early publicity promptly resulted in acclaim and wide recognition. Their work eventually fit snugly alongside the candy-colored gems and bohemian fashions of the late 1960s and 1970s, an era of free expression and fascination with cultures around the world that yielded vibrant jewelry with global influences.

Working with 22-karat yellow gold, Jean Mahie’s founders produced bold designs that drew on architecture and artifacts of Mediterranean history, inspired by Jacline’s childhood, which took shape not far from the ruins of ancient Carthage in Tunisia. Their textured, sculptural link necklaces, cuff bracelets, dangle earrings and other pieces garnered praise from the likes of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, both of which engaged in partnerships with Jean Mahie. Neiman Marcus later became the sole retailer of the brand’s jewelry.

Jean-Marie Mazard passed away in 1994. Jacline Mazard now designs alongside her son and daughter in their studio in New York City.

Discover vintage Jean Mahie bracelets, necklaces and earrings on 1stDibs.

A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.

Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.

Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.

Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.

During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.

So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic. 

Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.

These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.