Marco Bicego Lunaria Necklace

In its refreshing mix of traditional Italian craftsmanship and contemporary fashion sensibility, Marco Bicego’s style is unmistakable in the world of fine jewelry. The designer, whose pieces have been worn by former secretary of state Hillary Clinton and actresses such as Kate Winslet, was born into a family of goldsmiths in Vicenza, Italy. His eponymous brand took shape at his father Giuseppe Bicego’s atelier, where young Marco would spend every summer observing craftsmen and learning to make pieces by hand. He introduced his first collection in 2000.

Each necklace, bracelet, ring and earring is made at Bicego’s headquarters in Northern Italy’s Veneto region. A typical Marco Bicego piece is made of 18-karat gold that is smelted in-house, is unusual in its shape and texture and is designed to be perfect for layering. Some of the atelier’s signature techniques include the integration of gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires and tourmalines faceted with an exclusive rose cut and iconic line engraving on gold. This texturing is done by a bulino tool, an ancient hand-carving tool that leaves hundreds of lines on the metal’s surface, giving the piece a fine, brushed texture and a delicate sheen. The hand-twisted coil technique is another classic, one that lends necklaces and bangles a distinctly handmade, liquid-like appearance.

Marco Bicego jewelry is meant to be lived in — dressed up with a cocktail dress or worn casually with a T-shirt. This versatility, combined with artisanal techniques, makes a Bicego piece inimitable. The founder’s unconventional collections are named after his journeys to cities such as Cairo, Jaipur and Marrakech — he finds inspiration in his travels and, most importantly, in the person who wears his jewelry. “Every jewel is entirely handmade,” Bicego has said. “It is unique, like the woman who wears it.”

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We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners.

Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers. 

In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs. 

For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone. 

Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage necklaces designed by David Webb — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt. 

On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.