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Antique 18ct Gold & Platinum 1920s Original Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Plaque Ring
Antique 18ct Gold & Platinum 1920s Original Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Plaque Ring

Antique 18ct Gold & Platinum 1920s Original Art Deco Ruby & Diamond Plaque Ring

Located in Brighton, GB

This fabulous ring showcases a large rectangular design, elegantly set with three vertical rows of exquisite old mine-cut diamonds that sparkle beautifully.

Category

Early 20th Century European Art Deco Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum

Antique Snake, Hammer and Stars Brooch, 9k Gold and Silver, Diamond, Ruby, Pearl
Antique Snake, Hammer and Stars Brooch, 9k Gold and Silver, Diamond, Ruby, Pearl

Antique Snake, Hammer and Stars Brooch, 9k Gold and Silver, Diamond, Ruby, Pearl

Located in NEWARK, GB

A beautiful and rare antique snake and hammer brooch. Victorian design at its very finest this brooch incorporates so many beautiful materials and so much symbolism in a small but m...

Category

Antique Mid-19th Century British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Turquoise, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver

Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Ring
Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Ring

Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Ring

Located in New York, NY

Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Ring A platinum ruby and diamond ring set with an old mine cut diamond weighing approximately 2.63 carats Approximate Weights: Old Mine Cut Diamond: 2.63...

Category

Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Burma Ruby Diamond and Pearl Brooch in 14 Karat Gold
Burma Ruby Diamond and Pearl Brooch in 14 Karat Gold

Burma Ruby Diamond and Pearl Brooch in 14 Karat Gold

Located in Miami, FL

A late Victorian brooch circa 1900, featuring a cushion cut shape Burmese ruby with a strong pinkish red hue adorned with old mine cut diamonds.

Category

Antique 1890s Unknown Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

18th Century Antique Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
18th Century Antique Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet

18th Century Antique Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet

By Unbranded

Located in Tysons, VA

This refined 18th-century bracelet features two graduating pear-shaped Burmese rubies, both certified no-heat by AGL, framed by halos of old mine-cut diamonds and joined by delicate ...

Category

Antique 18th Century Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum

Vintage Ruby and Diamond Snake Brooch
Vintage Ruby and Diamond Snake Brooch

Vintage Ruby and Diamond Snake Brooch

Located in London, GB

The body of the snake is adorned with alternating square-cut red rubies and old mine-cut white diamonds, creating a striking contrast.

Category

20th Century Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Retro Period Citrine, Ruby & Diamond Bracelet
Retro Period Citrine, Ruby & Diamond Bracelet

Retro Period Citrine, Ruby & Diamond Bracelet

Located in Brisbane City, QLD

The citrine is flanked by two shoulders of synthetic carre cut rubies and old mine cut diamonds. Synthetic rubies were common during the Retro period, were usually of a high quality ...

Category

Mid-20th Century American Retro Retro Bracelets

Materials

Citrine, Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

4.40 ctw Vintage Style Ruby & Diamond 14K Rose Gold Bangle Bracelet
4.40 ctw Vintage Style Ruby & Diamond 14K Rose Gold Bangle Bracelet

4.40 ctw Vintage Style Ruby & Diamond 14K Rose Gold Bangle Bracelet

Located in Tysons, VA

An antique rose gold bangle dating to circa 1900, set with nine oval rubies totaling approximately 4.40 carats, interspersed with sixteen small old-mine cut diamonds.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Rose Gold

Vintage Burmese Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring, circa 1970
Vintage Burmese Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring, circa 1970

Vintage Burmese Ruby and Diamond Cluster Ring, circa 1970

Located in London, GB

Vintage Burmese ruby and diamond cluster ring. Set to centre with a cushion shape old mine natural unenhanced Burmese ruby in an open back claw setting with an approximate weight of ...

Category

Vintage 1970s Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Platinum

Leyser 18K White Gold Ruby & Diamond "Bouquet" Ring
Leyser 18K White Gold Ruby & Diamond "Bouquet" Ring

Leyser 18K White Gold Ruby & Diamond "Bouquet" Ring

By Thomas Leyser

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

This ring in 18k White Gold is set with a 1x fine ruby (facetted, Mocambique, 3.07ct), 8x fine rubies (old mine, Gebrüder Leyser, 3.45ct) and 48x Diamonds (brillant-cut, 1mm, G/VS).

Category

21st Century and Contemporary German Romantic Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold

Vintage Garnet Bug Pendant of 14k Gold, Circa 1950s
Vintage Garnet Bug Pendant of 14k Gold, Circa 1950s

Vintage Garnet Bug Pendant of 14k Gold, Circa 1950s

Located in Lewisburg, PA

The body is formed by a substantial garnet cabochon, richly saturated in tone and beautifully polished, creating dramatic visual depth. A vivid ruby eye, a red glass eye, and an old ...

Category

Vintage 1950s Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold

Georgian Ruby and Emerald Mandolin Brooch/Pendant Locket, circa 1830
Georgian Ruby and Emerald Mandolin Brooch/Pendant Locket, circa 1830

Georgian Ruby and Emerald Mandolin Brooch/Pendant Locket, circa 1830

Located in London, GB

A yellow, rose and green gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mandolin, a symbol of harmony in love, the front and reverse decorated with engraved floral and foliate motifs in rose a...

Category

Antique 1830s Georgian Brooches

Materials

Emerald, Ruby, Gold

Belle Epoque Ruby Sapphire OMC Diamond Enamel Pendant Necklace 14 Karat Gold
Belle Epoque Ruby Sapphire OMC Diamond Enamel Pendant Necklace 14 Karat Gold

Belle Epoque Ruby Sapphire OMC Diamond Enamel Pendant Necklace 14 Karat Gold

Located in New York, NY

THIS IS A STUNNING MUSEUM QUALITY ANTIQUE SAPPHIRE, RUBY AND OLD MINE CUT DIAMOND PENDANT WITH EXQUISITE PINK AND ROBIN'S EGG BLUE GUILLOCHE ENAMEL.

Category

Antique 19th Century Unknown Belle Époque Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Antique Insect Earrings of Pearls, Rubies, and 15ct Gold, Circa 1910
Antique Insect Earrings of Pearls, Rubies, and 15ct Gold, Circa 1910

Antique Insect Earrings of Pearls, Rubies, and 15ct Gold, Circa 1910

Located in Lewisburg, PA

These captivating earrings, alive with Edwardian-era charm, showcase finely detailed insects set with lustrous pearls, vivid rubies, and old mine cut diamonds in warm 15ct gold.

Category

Early 20th Century Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, 15k Gold

18k White Gold Oval Ruby Cts 1.65 Marquise Diamond Flower Earrings
18k White Gold Oval Ruby Cts 1.65 Marquise Diamond Flower Earrings

18k White Gold Oval Ruby Cts 1.65 Marquise Diamond Flower Earrings

Located in Hong Kong, HK

Featuring two exquisite oval rubies (1.65 cts) with an outstandingly rich and vivid red color from the legendary mines of Old Burma.

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Contemporary Stud Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold

Victorian Swooping Birds Diamond Drop Brooch
Victorian Swooping Birds Diamond Drop Brooch

Victorian Swooping Birds Diamond Drop Brooch

Located in London, GB

Suspended from the beak of one swallow is a single round faceted old mine-cut diamond, exuding a brilliant white hue.

Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian 14K Yellow Gold Rose Cut Diamond and Ruby Flag Pin
Antique Victorian 14K Yellow Gold Rose Cut Diamond and Ruby Flag Pin

Antique Victorian 14K Yellow Gold Rose Cut Diamond and Ruby Flag Pin

Located in Great Neck, NY

This gorgeous pin features beautiful rose cut diamonds and old mine cut rubies set in a checkered pattern.

Category

Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Demantoid garnet and diamond lizard brooch, circa 1880.
Demantoid garnet and diamond lizard brooch, circa 1880.

Demantoid garnet and diamond lizard brooch, circa 1880.

Located in London, GB

Demantoid garnet and diamond lizard brooch. Set with nine cushion shape natural demantoid garnets in open back grain settings with a combined approximate weight of 0.85 carats, furth...

Category

Antique 1880s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, Gold, Silver

Antique 1850s Georgian Mourning Braided Hair Ring
Antique 1850s Georgian Mourning Braided Hair Ring

Antique 1850s Georgian Mourning Braided Hair Ring

Located in Santa Monica, CA

It features natural pearls, two rubies and one old mine cut diamond at center presented as a floral motif.

Category

Antique 1850s Georgian Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique diamond en tremblant butterfly brooch
Antique diamond en tremblant butterfly brooch

Antique diamond en tremblant butterfly brooch

Located in New York, NY

A Victorian diamond en tremblant butterfly brooch, the body composed of three graduated old mine-cut diamonds (1.75 cts, .70 cts, and .60 cts from top to bottom), with further diamon...

Category

Antique 1860s Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver

his beautiful antique Crescent Moon is 1870 ca Glorious Victorian workmanship ma
his beautiful antique Crescent Moon is 1870 ca Glorious Victorian workmanship ma

his beautiful antique Crescent Moon is 1870 ca Glorious Victorian workmanship ma

Located in Napoli, IT

This beautiful antique Crescent Moon is 1870 ca Glorious Victorian workmanship made of solid 18 KT gold and Silver Set with 15 graduated in size old mine cut Diamonds and tiny rose c...

Category

Antique 1870s European Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Silver

Sapphire Rose Diamond Ruby Dragonfly Insect Necklace Art Nouveau 14 Karat Gold
Sapphire Rose Diamond Ruby Dragonfly Insect Necklace Art Nouveau 14 Karat Gold

Sapphire Rose Diamond Ruby Dragonfly Insect Necklace Art Nouveau 14 Karat Gold

Located in New York, NY

This is a stunning Art Nouveau - Art Deco Rose Cut and Old MIne Cut Diamond, Sapphire, Ruby and Pearl Dragonfly Insect Pendant Necklace and chain in 14 Karat Gold.

Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 14k Gold Diamond Sapphire Butterfly Brooch, Circa 1899, Russia
Antique 14k Gold Diamond Sapphire Butterfly Brooch, Circa 1899, Russia

Antique 14k Gold Diamond Sapphire Butterfly Brooch, Circa 1899, Russia

Located in Victoria, CA

Designed as a delicate butterfly, the jewel is adorned with luminous old mine-cut diamonds and sparkling rose-cut diamonds that catch the light with a soft, romantic brilliance.

Category

Early 20th Century Russian Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 14k Gold

Rare Egyptian Revival Pharoah Brooch Lapis Diamond Ruby Pearl Enamel Art Deco
Rare Egyptian Revival Pharoah Brooch Lapis Diamond Ruby Pearl Enamel Art Deco

Rare Egyptian Revival Pharoah Brooch Lapis Diamond Ruby Pearl Enamel Art Deco

Located in New York, NY

This is a museum quality Belle Epoque - Art Deco Egyptian Revival masterpiece with a Lapis Lazuli Pharoah, adorned with Old Mine and Rose Cut Diamonds, Ruby, and Pearls and set in 14...

Category

Vintage 1920s Unknown Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Gold, Enamel, Yellow Gold

Tiffany & Company Early 1900 Gold and Diamond double Butterfly Brooch
Tiffany & Company Early 1900 Gold and Diamond double Butterfly Brooch

Tiffany & Company Early 1900 Gold and Diamond double Butterfly Brooch

By Tiffany & Co.

Located in Chicago, IL

Silver top and 14k Gold back, set with old Mine and Rose cut Diamonds totaling approximately .60 Carats, further set with Fine color old cut Cushion Rubies and also set with possibly...

Category

Antique Early 1900s American Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver

Antique Ruby And Diamond Russian Gold Link Bracelet
Antique Ruby And Diamond Russian Gold Link Bracelet

Antique Ruby And Diamond Russian Gold Link Bracelet

Located in Cairo, EG

Antique russian link braclet in open work style centered with baguet cut rubies and old mine cut diamonds with estimate weight og 0.70 carats braclet lengh 19cm and total gold weight...

Category

Antique Early 1900s Link Bracelets

Giuliano Mini Brooch Set
Giuliano Mini Brooch Set

Giuliano Mini Brooch Set

By Giuliano

Located in London, GB

Here we have a delightful pair of mini antique brooches from Carlo Giuliano. The first showcases a quatrefoil motif enamelled in white and blue with a silver set old cut diamond at ...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Enamel

9ct Gold Bark Buckle Diamond Set Ring
9ct Gold Bark Buckle Diamond Set Ring

9ct Gold Bark Buckle Diamond Set Ring

Located in London, GB

9ct Gold 1960s Buckle Ring Bark surface design set with 15 x 0.8mm Natural diamonds and 2 x 0.8mm Natural Rubies Size U.K Size V 1/4 U.S Size 10 3/4 Thickness - 7.8mm Depth 1.2mm ...

Category

Mid-20th Century British Retro Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Gold

Rare Antique "Regard Ring" 12ct Yellow Gold English C/1868
Rare Antique "Regard Ring" 12ct Yellow Gold English C/1868

Rare Antique "Regard Ring" 12ct Yellow Gold English C/1868

Located in Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA

A fun and beautifully handmade ring fashioned in the "R.E.G.A.R.D." motif. The ring is set with ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, and a diamond. In this sequence when you take t...

Category

Antique 1860s Victorian Band Rings

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Ruby, Yellow Gold

Large Art Nouveau Antique Guilloche Enamel Locket Pendant
Large Art Nouveau Antique Guilloche Enamel Locket Pendant

Large Art Nouveau Antique Guilloche Enamel Locket Pendant

Located in Chicago, IL

Circa 1910 This very large ornate 14K gold locket pendant is designed in Art Nouveau taste of the period. The pendant is embellished with excellent bluish white guilloche enamel. T...

Category

Vintage 1910s Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel

Victorian 0.50ct Sapphire, Diamond and Pearl Bug Brooch, c.1880s
Victorian 0.50ct Sapphire, Diamond and Pearl Bug Brooch, c.1880s

Victorian 0.50ct Sapphire, Diamond and Pearl Bug Brooch, c.1880s

Located in London, GB

This charming Victorian brooch is crafted in the delightful form of a flying bug. At its centre lies a g 0.50 carat natural sapphire, forming the body, complemented by a sparkling 0....

Category

Antique 1880s British Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Pearl, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Georgian Key to My Heart Rare Acrostic Brooch
Georgian Key to My Heart Rare Acrostic Brooch

Georgian Key to My Heart Rare Acrostic Brooch

Located in Napoli, IT

English origin Further Details Below Metal: 18 Kt yellow gold, tested Hallmarks: none/worn Gems: 2 rubies 1 garnet 1 emerald 1 amethyst totalling approx .45 Ct – 1 old mine cut dia...

Category

Antique Early 19th Century British Georgian Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Ruby, 18k Gold

Antique Diamond, Pearl and Gem-set Butterfly Brooch
Antique Diamond, Pearl and Gem-set Butterfly Brooch

Antique Diamond, Pearl and Gem-set Butterfly Brooch

Located in New York, NY

Created in the 1880s, this diamond, pearl, and gem-set butterfly brooch is set in silver-topped 18K gold. The old mine-cut diamond and pearl body, with emerald eyes and ruby-tipped a...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Silver

Diamond and ruby brooch in rose and white gold 1940s
Diamond and ruby brooch in rose and white gold 1940s

Diamond and ruby brooch in rose and white gold 1940s

Located in Milano, IT

Gorgeous vintage ribbon brooch circa 1940 in 18K rose and white gold. Decorated with 9 rosette-cut diamonds of about 0.15 carat and 6 brilliant-cut rubies of about 0.50 carat. Questa...

Category

Vintage 1940s Italian Retro Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Rose Gold

Antique Art Deco Platinum Tutti Frutti Moonstone Diamond Flower Pot Brooch
Antique Art Deco Platinum Tutti Frutti Moonstone Diamond Flower Pot Brooch

Antique Art Deco Platinum Tutti Frutti Moonstone Diamond Flower Pot Brooch

Located in Winter Springs, FL

This “tutti frutti” flower pot brooch is hand crafted in platinum and set with marquise and old mine cut diamonds in both fancy yellow and white totaling approximately 2.60cttw .

Category

Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Emerald, Moonstone, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Platinum

Egyptian Revival Snakeskin Coin Purse w/14K Gold Jeweled Dual Snake Head Closure
Egyptian Revival Snakeskin Coin Purse w/14K Gold Jeweled Dual Snake Head Closure

Egyptian Revival Snakeskin Coin Purse w/14K Gold Jeweled Dual Snake Head Closure

Located in Palm Beach, FL

The heads are engraved with very detailed scales and are set with a total of 4 Old Mine Cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.45ct, two demantoid garnets weighing a total of approxim...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century American Egyptian Revival Boxes and Cases

Materials

Diamond, Garnet, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Georgian  "Regard" Basket Brooch
Georgian  "Regard" Basket Brooch

Georgian "Regard" Basket Brooch

$5,865

H 1 in W 1.25 in L 1 in

Georgian "Regard" Basket Brooch

Located in Baltimore, MD

Antique 18K gold cannetille basket brooch set across the top with a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond. The first letters of the stones spell "regard", a term of endea...

Category

Antique Early 19th Century English Georgian Brooches

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Ruby, Turquoise, Multi-gemstone, 18k...

Victorian Five-Stone Burmese Ruby Ring
Victorian Five-Stone Burmese Ruby Ring

Victorian Five-Stone Burmese Ruby Ring

Located in London, GB

An impressive Victorian five stone ruby ring, consisting of five cushion-cut rubies graduating in size from the centre, the smaller ruby weighing 0.60 carat and the largest weighing ...

Category

Antique 1880s British Victorian Cluster Rings

Materials

Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Early Victorian Diamond and Ruby Cross
Early Victorian Diamond and Ruby Cross

Early Victorian Diamond and Ruby Cross

Located in London, GB

An early Victorian diamond and ruby cross, the eleven old European-cut diamonds estimated to weigh 6.25 carats in total, surrounded by a frame consisted of forty-four rectangular fac...

Category

Antique 1840s British Early Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

French Late 19th Century Gem-Set Fly Locket
French Late 19th Century Gem-Set Fly Locket

French Late 19th Century Gem-Set Fly Locket

Located in London, GB

A French late 19th century gem-set fly locket, the thorax an old cushion-cut diamond estimated to weigh 0.5 carats, the eyes and wings set with rose-cut diamonds, the abdomen set wit...

Category

Antique 1890s French Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Rock Crystal, Ruby, 18k Gold

A Regency Cannetille Gem-set Cross Brooch
A Regency Cannetille Gem-set Cross Brooch

A Regency Cannetille Gem-set Cross Brooch

Located in London, GB

A Regency cannetille gem-set cross brooch, to the centre a rectangular-cut emerald estimated to weigh 0.9 carats, surrounded by eight rectangular-cut rubies and eight old mine-cut di...

Category

Antique Early 19th Century English Regency Brooches

Materials

18k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch 30 OMC Diamonds Ruby Enamel 18 Karat Gold
Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch 30 OMC Diamonds Ruby Enamel 18 Karat Gold

Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch 30 OMC Diamonds Ruby Enamel 18 Karat Gold

Located in New York, NY

It is set with 30 gorgeous Old Mine Cut Diamonds. These diamonds are just stunning - very white with the incredible sparkle of the antique diamonds that we just love.

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Art Nouveau Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

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Old Mine Ruby For Sale on 1stDibs

You are likely to find exactly the old mine ruby you’re looking for on 1stDibs, as there is a broad range for sale. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. In our selection of items, you can find a vintage example as well as a contemporary version. Finding the perfect old mine ruby may mean sifting through those created during different time periods — you can find an early version that dates to the 19th Century and a newer variation that were made as recently as the 21st Century. For this particular accessory, there are many different carat weights to choose from, but .5 Carat and 1 Carat versions are of considerable interest. Creating an old mine ruby has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by A. J. Hedges & Co., Paul Ditisheim and Van Cleef & Arpels are consistently popular. See these pages for an old mine cut iteration of this accessory, while there are also old european cut cut and bead cut versions available here, too. Most of our old mine ruby for sale are for women, but there are 75 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much is an Old Mine Ruby?

Prices for an old mine ruby can differ depending upon size, time period and other attributes — at 1stDibs, these accessories begin at $525 and can go as high as $270,000, while this accessory, on average, fetches $4,250.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design

This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.

Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.

Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.

Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.

When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.

Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.