Paloma Picasso Torsade Pearls

When thinking about the colorful gemstones and flashy forms that so frequently characterized 1980s jewelry, it is impossible not to conjure images of the expressive confections that Paloma Picasso created for legendary American luxury house Tiffany & Co. For iconic work such as the Loving Heart ring and the Love & Kisses brooch, Picasso mined what she admired about urban street art in New York City’s grungy subways and brought it to fine jewelry-making on a global stage.

The daughter of artists Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, Paloma was destined for creative success. She was determined to succeed on her own, however, and didn’t rely on her parents' renown. Picasso graduated from the Université de Paris in Nanterre, where she studied jewelry design and costuming. She spent a short period in the late 1960s as a fashion designer and a jewelry stylist for a Parisian theater company, an experience that essentially ignited Picasso’s career. Critics took notice, and her friend and French fashion designer Yves Saint-Laurent commissioned her to make costume jewelry for his runway collections.

Picasso designed a collection of necklaces and bracelets for the Greek jewelry firm Zolotas in the early 1970s, and her success with Saint-Laurent led to an important connection between Picasso and Tiffany & Co. design director John Loring. Picasso jumped at Loring’s request to present a table setting at a 1979 Tiffany & Co. exhibition, and within a single year, Loring commissioned her to design jewelry for the brand. Her first proper collection, Paloma's Graffiti, is her best-known work for the company.

Paloma had joined the illustrious ranks of Elsa Peretti and Angela Cummings — both revered jewelry designers who’d signed contracts with Tiffany just before her. Her Graffiti collection, which initially comprised a range of both slender and bubble-letter-like scribbles, X’s, O’s and other figures in 18-karat gold and palladium, was an extraordinary debut for her. Finding inspiration in Keith Haring’s Pop art as well as the street art that covered Manhattan subway cars of the era, Picasso introduced a graphic quality to her inaugural Tiffany line.

“In the ‘70s, people were starting to tag subways and walls, which had everyone outraged,” Picasso explained of the concepts behind her vibrant rings, earrings and necklaces. “I wanted to look at graffiti differently and try to make something positive out of it.”

Picasso would later draw on nature for her sterling silver-and-pearl Olive Leaf accessories at Tiffany and frequently created gold necklaces and bracelets that were set with a striking mix of colorful semi-precious stones.

Throughout her career, Picasso has garnered acclaim from many institutions such as the Fashion Group International and was presented with an award in 1988 by the Hispanic Designers Council. She has been recognized the National Museum of Women in the Arts, and her work is held in the collections of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History and the Field Museum in Chicago.

Find vintage Paloma Picasso Tiffany & Co. brooches, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Vintage multistrand necklaces add glamour to any outfit and are easy to accessorize with.

One of the oldest known forms of jewelry is the necklace; evidence includes shell beads dating back at least 142,000 years. Multistrand necklaces appeared early in this history, with archaeologists identifying examples from ancient Mesopotamia.

One popular style of multistrand necklace is the torsade necklace, with “torsade” coming from the French word for twist or cable. These necklaces are made by twisting several strands of beads, pearls or other material together and securing them with a clasp. The hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, while Ciner helped popularize the torsade necklace in the 1980s with strands of glass beads often held by animal-head clasps.

The bayadère necklace, also known as the rope necklace, is similar but has only a few strands of pearls or beads that are twisted or braided together. It was particularly popular at the turn of the 20th century, including as a gift for bridesmaids. Sometimes the beads or pearls match; other times, they are multicolored, with accents such as a single tassel or pendant. Another version is the choker-style dog-collar necklace, a multistrand necklace usually between 16 to 18 inches long.

In all of these variations, a multistrand necklace offers a touch of sophistication for your look, from everyday wear to the red carpet. Explore 1stDibs for multistrand necklaces in a range of lengths, styles and materials.