Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin
Located in Rotterdam, NL
The craftsmanship and attention to detail are characteristic of late 19th-century jewelry, when reverse intaglio crystals, also known as Essex crystals, were prized for their artistr...
Crystal, 14k Gold, Gold
Antique 14K YG Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Pin Brooch
Located in New York, NY
The reverse of the crystal has been expertly intaglio-carved and meticulously painted, creating the remarkable three-dimensional illusion for which Essex crystal jewelry is celebrated.
14k Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Horse Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a horses head in reins.
Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal and 18k Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel, framed within a plain and unembellished 18k yellow gold border.
Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Ring
Located in Napoli, IT
The design is drawn on the flat back/reverse side of the crystal cabochon, it is hand carved, and then painted by a master artisan Birds were much desired by Victorian ladies Fine we...
Crystal, 18k Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Dog Ring
Located in Firenze, IT
The domed round shape rock crystal reverse intaglio painted to depict a Yorkshire Terrier. Mounted in 18Kt gold setting Finger size: 7 Diameter of the top: 25 mm Weight: 16.2 gr
Rock Crystal, Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Equestrian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Antique 14K Gold Brooch Pendant
Located in New York, NY
Fabulous Edwardian Period Equestrian Essex Crystal pendant/brooch in the shape of a beautifully detailed gold saddle. The cabochon crystal engraved and painted on the reverse, depict...
Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 9 karat yellow gold cocktail ring; part of our diverse antique jewelry and estate jewelry collections.
Crystal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 9 karat yellow gold 'dog' cocktail ring; part of our diverse antique Victorian jewelry and estate jewelry collections.
Crystal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 14K Yellow Gold Essex Crystal Sailboat Tie Clip, Circa 1940
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive vintage Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 14 karat yellow gold 'sailboat' tie clip; part of our diverse vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections.
Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Edwardian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal 14K gold nautical bracelet & broach set
Located in Surfside, FL
Edwardian square Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal handpainted nautical bracelet & broach set, in 14k yellow gold.
14k Gold
Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch
Located in London, GB
Set on a mother of pearl background in 18kt gold. Essex Crystal or reverse intaglio are made from a cabochon (domed) crystal which has been carved from the back and then hand paint...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch
Located in London, GB
Set on a mother of pearl background in 18kt gold. Essex Crystal or reverse intaglio are made from a cabochon (domed) crystal which has been carved from the back and then hand paint...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Bird Floral Motif Necklace
Located in Houston, TX
Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal intaglio Bird floral motif necklace.
18k Gold
Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin, Austria
Located in Dusseldorf, NRW
Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin 14k rose gold (580/1000), rock crystal Length 7.8 cm, diameter of head 1.4 cm Marks: Viennese assay marks for ...
Rock Crystal, 14k Gold
Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Terrier Locket
Located in New York, NY
An adorable Victorian Essex crystal reverse intaglio locket. This 18k gold locket features a Norwich terrier surrounded by rose cut diamond row and extra pearls at four additional po...
Diamond, Pearl, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold
Unavailable
Exquisite Essex Crystal and Diamond Ring
Located in New York, NY
Originally a brooch and now mounted as a ring, it is a reverse intaglio in Essex crystal. The process to make a piece like this is a long and highly skilled effort of multiple crafts...
Diamond, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold
Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal German Shepherd Cufflinks
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A pair of reverse intaglio Essex crystal cufflinks, each depicting a German Shepherd dog.
Crystal, Yellow Gold
Antique Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Spaniel Gold Stick Pin
Located in Toronto, ON
18K Yellow Gold and Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Spaniel Dog Stick Pin, C.1910.
Essex Crystal 14 Karat Yellow Gold Equestrian Reverse Head Cufflinks
Located in Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire
These Cufflinks feature an equestrian design with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex Crystal panel. crafted in 14k Yellow Gold.
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a pair of 'English Pointer' dogs.
Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The anterior links have an oval form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a bird, a gold finch and a bull finch, pe...
Crystal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Fox Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a fox's head, framed within a plain and unembel...
Crystal, Yellow Gold
1890s Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Dress Studs
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The anterior face of the studs are ornamented with an exceptional circular hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal, each depicting a different species of bird upon a branch; A ro...
Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Horse Ring
Located in Southampton, PA
14k Yellow Gold Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Ring. With domed round shape rock crystal.
Rock Crystal, 14k Gold
Reverse Intaglio Crystal Essex Crystal Dog Brooch Locket, circa 1880
Located in Toronto, ON
Antique English reverse intaglio crystal dog brooch, C.1880. The 15K brooch of circular shape with star gold border, the crystal painting of a spaniel. Locket to reverse. Diameter: 1...
Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Jack Russell Stick Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
This is an antique Victorian stick pin brooch crafted in 14K gold depicting a cute Jack Russell Terrier. The circular detail is made of cabochon cut rock crystal. The picture of a do...
Crystal, Gold
Vintage Tiffany & Co England Essex Reverse Intaglio Field Mice Gold Cufflinks
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Southampton, PA
Charming vintage Tiffany & Co. cufflinks in 18k yellow gold, showcasing exquisite Essex crystal reverse intaglio scenes. Finely painted field country mice motifs appear beneath ...
Yellow Gold, Gold
Antique Gold Reverse Painted Essex Crystal Link Bracelet Showing Hunting Scenes
Located in Princeton, NJ
-14 karat yellow gold -Reverse painted Essex crystal intaglios -Circa 1920s, of American and English manufacture -Length of bracelet measures 7 inches
Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold
Fine Gold Reverse Intaglio Painted Crystal Pendant, circa 1880
Located in Toronto, ON
Very Fine 19th century Gold Reverse Intaglio painted Crystal `Essex Crystal’ large Pendant, English, C.1880.
Victorian 18K Gold Fox Terrier Reverse Carved Intaglio Rock Crystal Stick Pin
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
This stick pin houses a reverse carved intaglio (also known as a reverse painted intaglio, or ‘Essex crystal’).
Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Diamond and Essex Crystal, Yellow Gold Dog Brooch - Victorian
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional Victorian diamond, essex crystal and 9k yellow gold reverse intaglio dog brooch; part of our diverse antique jewellery and estate jewelry collections.
Crystal, Diamond, 9k Gold
Sold
H 0.38 in Dm 1.25 in
Antique Essex Crystal Sapphire and Diamond Yellow Gold 'Brussels Griffon' Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The brooch is ornamented with a feature hand painted Essex crystal reverse intaglio, depicting a 'Brussels Griffon' dog.
Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 14k Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Painted Intaglio Horse Charm Medallion
Located in New York, NY
Delicated gold beading borders the crystal. A true collector's piece for those that collect reverse intaglio Essex crystal antiques or for those that simply love equestrian and hor...
Crystal, 14k Gold
Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Fox' Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a fox's head, framed within a plain and unembel...
Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Victorian 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Pheasant' Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a pheasant.
Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog and Horse Cufflinks
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The links have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each cufflink consists of two Essex crystal panels, one depicting a horse in rei...
Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Stick Pin
Located in Southampton, PA
14k Yellow Gold Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Stick Pin. With domed round shape rock crystal.
Rock Crystal, 14k Gold
JE Caldwell & Co Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Brooch Pin
By J.E. Caldwell & Co.
Located in Southampton, PA
14k Yellow Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Brooch Pin by JE Caldwell & Co.
Rock Crystal, 14k Gold
Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Dog Diamond Pin Brooch
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
This is a Victorian round pin brooch crafted in 14K gold. It depicts a hunting dog. The circular detail is made of cabochon cut rock crystal. The picture of a dog is hand drawn and i...
Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold
Antique Essex Crystal Gold Crop Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
The brooch is ornamented with a hand painted Essex crystal reverse intaglio, depicting a racehorse and jockey.
Crystal, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Exceptional Essex Crystal English Bulldog Brooch Set With Diamonds & Sapphires
Located in Tampa, FL
This exceptional Essex crystal brooch features a hyper realistic reverse intaglio of an English Bulldog hand carved into rock crystal and hand painted to perfection.
Diamond, Sapphire, Rock Crystal, Platinum, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Deco Essex Crystal Terrier Cufflinks
By Glorious Antique Jewelry Collection
Located in Stamford, CT
Known as reverse crystal intaglios or Essex crystals, this pair, carved backwards into the back of a crystal, painted in reverse and set in 18kt gold are artist miniature depictions ...
Agate, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold
Antique Essex Crystal Jack Russell Dog Stick Pin 15 Karat Gold & Mother Of Pearl
Located in Preston, Lancashire
These stunning reverse intaglio crystal or Essex crystal pins are becoming very rare to find at such nice quality.
15k Gold
Art Deco Reverse Crystal Intaglio 'Essex Crystal' Dachshund
Located in Stamford, CT
This is the incredible art of reverse crystal intaglio also known as essex crystal.
Crystal, 14k Gold
$1,250
W 0.4 in D 0.32 in L 2.45 in
Antique 17th / 18th Century English Foiled Stuart Crystal Stick Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique Stuart Crystal stick pin. Set with a faceted rock crystal, traces of pink and red foil, and a gold wire cypher. The pin is likely adapted from an early 17th or 18th ...
Crystal, Gold Plate
Antique Victorian rock crystal faceted brooch
Located in NEWARK, GB
ANTIQUE ENGLISH ROCK CRYSTAL BROOCH – C.1890s – GILT BRASS – FACETED OVAL CRYSTAL ✨ A beautiful and wonderfully romantic English antique brooch dating to around the 1890s, featuring...
Crystal, Rock Crystal, Brass, Gilt Metal
$5,266
Dm 0.6 in L 0.99 in
Exceptional Hermès Vintage Essex Crystal Gold Cufflinks Horse Stirrup Pattern
By Hermès
Located in Corcoué Sur Logne, Loire-Atlantique
Astounding Gorgeous Authentic Hermès Cufflinks Pattern: Horse Heads and Stirrup The essex crystal adds volume to the design which appears in 3 Dimensions Rare vintage items ! Mad...
Crystal, 18k Gold
David Webb 18 Karat Yellow Gold Black Enamel Horse Head Cuff Links
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
Immerse yourself in the equestrian elegance of the David Webb 18 Karat Yellow Gold Black Enamel Horse Head Cuff Links—a masterpiece of craftsmanship and style. These exquisite cuff l...
Yellow Gold, Enamel
Two Antique German Art Nouveau Jewelry Memory Pin Brooch Ormolu, 1900s
Located in Nuernberg, DE
Two lovely stylish sentimental brooches made to keep a photo of loved one. Made in Germany, circa 1900. Each brooch pin has a picture inside. A very pretty piece of antique jeweller...
Ormolu
19th Century Amythest Pendant Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Late 19th Century antique Amythest drop brooch in cutwork silver with gold floral applications. Set with a large octagonal, high cabochon amythest with an amythest pear shaped drop. ...
Amethyst, Diamond, 14k Gold, Silver
Edwardian Crystal Paste and Gold Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Delicate Edwardian faceted crystal paste brooch set in 14k gold with genuine, focal pearl and black hard enamel decoration. Excellent Condition. L 1.25" W 1"
Pearl, Crystal, 14k Gold
$2,750
W 1.35 in D 0.4 in L 1.6 in
Antique Victorian 15k Diamond Mourning Brooch Pin Locket Solid Yellow Gold
Located in Greer, SC
Stunning antique Victorian mourning brooch featuring brilliant diamonds set in 15k gold. This beautifully crafted brooch also has a locket on the back to house a photo or lock of hai...
Diamond, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique French Equestrian Cufflinks
Located in New York, NY
French Equestrian cufflinks of gilt metal and faux garnets circa 1930's. 1.25" x .75". Excellent condition.
Gilt Metal
Antique 1900 Gold Essex Crystal Polo Horse Earrings, Horseshoe Design
Located in Herzelia, Tel Aviv
Essex Crystal depicting a Polo game. An earring has a horseshoe shape. Superb detail of the movement. Each player is frozen in a moment of action. Reverse carved crystal was a tech...
Crystal, Gold
Vintage Tiffany & Company Gold Equestrian Motif Cufflinks
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This vintage pair of Tiffany 18K yellow gold equestrian motif cufflinks is comprised of a lifelike profile of a horse on one side and a very realistic and detailed caricature of a ho...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian Sterling Silver Lovely Lady Portrait Brooch Pin
Located in Wallkill, NY
Stunning Victorian Brooch Sterling Silver Great Floral Motif on this piece Victorian measuring 1.74" x 1.38 This is out of a massive jewelry collection from a Westchester county NY e...
Sterling Silver
Essex Crystal Horse Head Reverse Painted Gold Cufflinks
Located in New York, NY
c1910 Beautifully detailed Essex Crystal reverse painted intagliol and 14K gold mounted cufflinks, featuring four horse heads of different pose and coloration. 1/2 inch diameter. Mar...
14k Gold
Antique 14K Gold Cannetille Brooch with Pearl, Circa 1890
Located in Rotterdam, NL
This charming antique Dutch 14 karat gold brooch is a fine example of 19th-century regional jewelry craftsmanship. Rich in texture and symbolism, the piece reflects the refined goldw...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 18ct Yellow Gold, Edwardian Race Horse, Essex Glass & Diamond Stick Pin
Located in Brighton, GB
Antique Stick Pin 18ct Yellow Gold Circa 1900 This exquisite 18ct Gold Edwardian Stick Pin is a true masterpiece, perfect for any racing enthusiast. Featuring a beautifully crafte...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Art Deco Yellow Gold Enamel Horse Cufflinks, Circa 1930s, UK
Located in Firenze, IT
Depicting four horse heads.
Yellow Gold, Gold, Enamel
A Victorian gold and turquoise serpent necklace
Located in London, GB
A Victorian gold and turquoise serpent necklace, the flexible tapering yellow gold body formed of three rows of scale-like collets each set with a round cabochon-cut turquoise, the h...
Turquoise, Gold
Antique Essex Crystal Horse and Rider Brooch
Located in Baltimore, MD
Essex crystal carving of a horse and jockey surrounded by rose diamonds. Perhaps they are symbolic of the winners wreath. The crystals are carved in reverse or intaglio into the flat...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Edwardian Platinum Diamond and Pearl Reverse Carved Rock Crystal Equestrian Pin
Located in New York, NY
Edwardian Platinum Diamond and Pearl Reverse Carved Rock Crystal Equestrian Brooch c.1910 Essex crystal jewelry utilizes reverse glyptography — the art of gemstone carving — to crea...
Crystal, Diamond, Pearl, Rock Crystal, Platinum
1800 Roman micro mosaic dog brooch
Located in Amsterdam, NL
An oval micro mosaic of a dog with a blue background in an 18 carat gold border, with a silver setting which can be either a brooch or a stand, Rome, circa 1800. weight: 9.4 g dimen...
18k Gold, Silver
Victorian 18k Yellow Gold Micromosaic Dog Ring, Italy, Circa 1900
Located in Firenze, IT
Period: Late 19th century Provenance: Italy Ring size: 7 Weight: 13.3 gr This magnificent micromosaic dates to the 19th century, which is one of the periods of maximum production of...
Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$3,750
H 1.19 in W 0.4 in D 0.32 in
Ancient Egyptian Faience Cat Amulet Pendant Necklace 700-300 B.C. Gold
Located in New York, NY
This rare Ancient Egyptian Faience Amulet Pendant depicts a seated Cat. The faience cat, crafted between 700-300 BC, is a miniature masterpiece. In ancient Egyptian art, cats were de...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
$5,960Sale Price|20% Off
Masriera Art Nouveau Enameled Ring in 18kt Yellow Gold with VS Diamonds
By Masriera
Located in Miami, FL
An art nouveau enameled ring designed by Masriera. Colorful piece, created in Barcelona Spain by the jewelry designer Gloria Masriera for Masriera. This beautiful ring has been craf...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Ancient Viking 22kt Gold Spiral Serpent Ring - circa 9th/11th Century
Located in Firenze, IT
Period: Circa 9th/11th Century AD. Finger size: 8.5. Weight: 6.4. The ring, made of 22-karat gold, can be dated around the 9th – 10th century and ascribed to Viking manufacture, whi...
Gold, 22k Gold
Ancient Roman Gold ring with Agate Cameo Fish , circa 2nd Century AD
Located in Firenze, IT
The 2nd century ring has a gold frame with two grooves and gold globules welded to the upper junction, where is set a Roman cameo in agate, depicting a fish. This is a subject that w...
Agate, Gold, 22k Gold
Coral and Lapis Dog Fob French
Located in Litchfield, CT
Circa 1880s, 18k, France. Spectacular in every way, this French dog fob is the perfect pendant. The carved coral dog's head has a sweet, kind expression. An enameled collar amidst ha...
Coral, Lapis Lazuli, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Marcus & Co. Equestrian Essex Crystal Bracelet
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Litchfield, CT
Circa 1910, 14k, by Marcus & Co., American. This antique equestrian motif bracelet is the perfect casual-chic accessory. Its focal point is an expertly crafted, hand painted Essex cr...
Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Turquoise Snake Bangle Bracelet
Located in New York, NY
Inscribed with the date 1838, this antique serpent bangle bracelet is composed of turquoise and rubies, set in 18K gold. It is designed as a turquoise cabochon snake with diamond-sha...
Turquoise, 18k Gold
Georgian Diamond Brooch, circa 1770
Located in London, GB
Georgian diamond brooch/pendant. Centrally set with one cushion shape old mine diamond in a closed back cutdown setting with a weight of 1.10 carats, further highlighted by nine roun...
Diamond, Rose Gold, Silver
Art Deco Essex Crystal Riding Themed Bracelet
Located in Riverdale, NY
Art Deco period link bracelet with "Horse" theme showing riders, horses and polo players finely reverse painted under rock crystal cabochons, backed with mother of pearl. Alternating...
Rock Crystal, 14k Gold
Cartier 18K White Gold Diamond And Onyx Menotte Ring
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
This exquisite Cartier Menotte Ring is crafted in luxurious 18K white gold with a high-polish finish, showcasing Cartier's timeless elegance and craftsmanship. The ring features a st...
Diamond, Onyx, 18k Gold, White Gold
$5,500 / set
Black Onyx cat with pink sapphire band ring
By Diane Griswold Johnston
Located in Cohasset, MA
18K, beautifully hand carved Onyx Cat Head, Carved by Master Carver Idar Oberstein. Citrine eyes, .80 carats of Pink Sapphires in eternity band.
Onyx, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.