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Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal

Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin
Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin

Antique Victorian 14K Gold Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Dog Portrait Stickpin

Located in Rotterdam, NL

The craftsmanship and attention to detail are characteristic of late 19th-century jewelry, when reverse intaglio crystals, also known as Essex crystals, were prized for their artistr...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century European Late Victorian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Horse Cufflinks
Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Horse Cufflinks

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Horse Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a horses head in reins.

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and 18k Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks
Victorian Essex Crystal and 18k Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks

Victorian Essex Crystal and 18k Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel, framed within a plain and unembellished 18k yellow gold border.

Category

Antique Early 1900s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Ring
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Ring

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Ring

Located in Napoli, IT

The design is drawn on the flat back/reverse side of the crystal cabochon, it is hand carved, and then painted by a master artisan Birds were much desired by Victorian ladies Fine we...

Category

Antique 1860s European Victorian Signet Rings

Materials

Crystal, 18k Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Dog Ring
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Dog Ring

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Dog Ring

Located in Firenze, IT

The domed round shape rock crystal reverse intaglio painted to depict a Yorkshire Terrier. Mounted in 18Kt gold setting Finger size: 7 Diameter of the top: 25 mm Weight: 16.2 gr

Category

Antique 1890s English Victorian Dome Rings

Materials

Rock Crystal, Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold

1940s Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Yellow Gold Tie Clip
1940s Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Yellow Gold Tie Clip

1940s Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Yellow Gold Tie Clip

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

An impressive vintage Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 14 karat yellow gold 'sailboat' tie clip; part of our diverse vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections.

Category

Vintage 1940s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Equestrian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Antique 14K Gold Brooch Pendant
Equestrian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Antique 14K Gold Brooch Pendant

Equestrian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Antique 14K Gold Brooch Pendant

Located in New York, NY

Fabulous Edwardian Period Equestrian Essex Crystal pendant/brooch in the shape of a beautifully detailed gold saddle. The cabochon crystal engraved and painted on the reverse, depict...

Category

Early 20th Century British Edwardian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage Tiffany & Co England Essex Reverse Intaglio Field Mice Gold Cufflinks
Vintage Tiffany & Co England Essex Reverse Intaglio Field Mice Gold Cufflinks

Vintage Tiffany & Co England Essex Reverse Intaglio Field Mice Gold Cufflinks

By Tiffany & Co.

Located in Southampton, PA

Charming vintage Tiffany & Co. cufflinks in 18k yellow gold, showcasing exquisite Essex crystal reverse intaglio scenes. Finely painted field country mice motifs appear beneath ...

Category

20th Century Cufflinks

Materials

Yellow Gold, Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring
Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Cocktail Ring

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 9 karat yellow gold cocktail ring; part of our diverse antique jewelry and estate jewelry collections.

Category

Antique 1890s English Victorian Dome Rings

Materials

Crystal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog Cocktail Ring
Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog Cocktail Ring

Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog Cocktail Ring

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

An impressive Essex crystal reverse intaglio and 9 karat yellow gold 'dog' cocktail ring; part of our diverse antique Victorian jewelry and estate jewelry collections.

Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Late Victorian Dome Rings

Materials

Crystal, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold

Recent Sales

Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch
Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch

Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch

Located in London, GB

Set on a mother of pearl background in 18kt gold. Essex Crystal or reverse intaglio are made from a cabochon (domed) crystal which has been carved from the back and then hand paint...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch
Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch

Victorian Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal Bird Brooch

Located in London, GB

Set on a mother of pearl background in 18kt gold. Essex Crystal or reverse intaglio are made from a cabochon (domed) crystal which has been carved from the back and then hand paint...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century British Victorian Brooches

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Bird Floral Motif Necklace
Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Bird Floral Motif Necklace

Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal Intaglio Bird Floral Motif Necklace

Located in Houston, TX

Victorian Reverse Essex Crystal intaglio Bird floral motif necklace.

Category

Antique 17th Century British Victorian More Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin, Austria
Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin, Austria

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin, Austria

Located in Dusseldorf, NRW

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Pug Dog Gold Stick Pin 14k rose gold (580/1000), rock crystal Length 7.8 cm, diameter of head 1.4 cm Marks: Viennese assay marks for ...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Austrian Victorian Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Terrier Locket
Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Terrier Locket

Antique Victorian Essex Crystal Terrier Locket

Located in New York, NY

An adorable Victorian Essex crystal reverse intaglio locket. This 18k gold locket features a Norwich terrier surrounded by rose cut diamond row and extra pearls at four additional po...

Category

Antique 1880s British Victorian Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Exquisite Essex Crystal and Diamond Ring
Exquisite Essex Crystal and Diamond Ring

Exquisite Essex Crystal and Diamond Ring

Located in New York, NY

Originally a brooch and now mounted as a ring, it is a reverse intaglio in Essex crystal. The process to make a piece like this is a long and highly skilled effort of multiple crafts...

Category

Antique 1850s British Early Victorian More Rings

Materials

Diamond, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal German Shepherd Cufflinks
Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal German Shepherd Cufflinks

Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal German Shepherd Cufflinks

Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE

A pair of reverse intaglio Essex crystal cufflinks, each depicting a German Shepherd dog.

Category

Antique Early 1900s Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Yellow Gold

Essex Crystal 14 Karat Yellow Gold Equestrian Reverse Head Cufflinks
Essex Crystal 14 Karat Yellow Gold Equestrian Reverse Head Cufflinks

Essex Crystal 14 Karat Yellow Gold Equestrian Reverse Head Cufflinks

Located in Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire

These Cufflinks feature an equestrian design with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex Crystal panel. crafted in 14k Yellow Gold.

Category

Antique 1890s Cufflinks

Materials

14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks
Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks

Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold Dog Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a pair of 'English Pointer' dogs.

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Cufflinks
Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Cufflinks

Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The anterior links have an oval form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a bird, a gold finch and a bull finch, pe...

Category

Antique 1880s Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Fox Cufflinks
Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Fox Cufflinks

Victorian Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Fox Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a fox's head, framed within a plain and unembel...

Category

Antique 19th Century British Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Yellow Gold

1890s Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Dress Studs
1890s Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Dress Studs

1890s Victorian Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Bird' Dress Studs

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The anterior face of the studs are ornamented with an exceptional circular hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal, each depicting a different species of bird upon a branch; A ro...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Vanity Items

Materials

Yellow Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Horse Ring
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Horse Ring

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Gold Horse Ring

Located in Southampton, PA

14k Yellow Gold Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Ring. With domed round shape rock crystal.

Category

Antique 1880s British More Rings

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Reverse Intaglio Crystal Essex Crystal Dog Brooch Locket, circa 1880
Reverse Intaglio Crystal Essex Crystal Dog Brooch Locket, circa 1880

Reverse Intaglio Crystal Essex Crystal Dog Brooch Locket, circa 1880

Located in Toronto, ON

Antique English reverse intaglio crystal dog brooch, C.1880. The 15K brooch of circular shape with star gold border, the crystal painting of a spaniel. Locket to reverse. Diameter: 1...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century English Victorian More Jewelry

Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Jack Russell Stick Brooch
Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Jack Russell Stick Brooch

Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Jack Russell Stick Brooch

Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.

This is an antique Victorian stick pin brooch crafted in 14K gold depicting a cute Jack Russell Terrier. The circular detail is made of cabochon cut rock crystal. The picture of a do...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Gold

Antique Gold Reverse Painted Essex Crystal Link Bracelet Showing Hunting Scenes
Antique Gold Reverse Painted Essex Crystal Link Bracelet Showing Hunting Scenes

Antique Gold Reverse Painted Essex Crystal Link Bracelet Showing Hunting Scenes

Located in Princeton, NJ

-14 karat yellow gold -Reverse painted Essex crystal intaglios -Circa 1920s, of American and English manufacture -Length of bracelet measures 7 inches

Category

Early 20th Century English Late Victorian Link Bracelets

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold

Fine Gold Reverse Intaglio Painted Crystal Pendant, circa 1880
Fine Gold Reverse Intaglio Painted Crystal Pendant, circa 1880

Fine Gold Reverse Intaglio Painted Crystal Pendant, circa 1880

Located in Toronto, ON

Very Fine 19th century Gold Reverse Intaglio painted Crystal `Essex Crystal’ large Pendant, English, C.1880.

Category

Antique 19th Century Pendant Necklaces

Victorian 18K Gold Fox Terrier Reverse Carved Intaglio Rock Crystal Stick Pin
Victorian 18K Gold Fox Terrier Reverse Carved Intaglio Rock Crystal Stick Pin

Victorian 18K Gold Fox Terrier Reverse Carved Intaglio Rock Crystal Stick Pin

Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB

This stick pin houses a reverse carved intaglio (also known as a reverse painted intaglio, or ‘Essex crystal’).

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Deco Essex Crystal Terrier Cufflinks
Art Deco Essex Crystal Terrier Cufflinks

Art Deco Essex Crystal Terrier Cufflinks

By Glorious Antique Jewelry Collection

Located in Stamford, CT

Known as reverse crystal intaglios or Essex crystals, this pair, carved backwards into the back of a crystal, painted in reverse and set in 18kt gold are artist miniature depictions ...

Category

Vintage 1920s British Art Deco Cufflinks

Materials

Agate, Rock Crystal, 18k Gold

Antique Diamond and Essex Crystal, Yellow Gold Dog Brooch - Victorian
Antique Diamond and Essex Crystal, Yellow Gold Dog Brooch - Victorian

Antique Diamond and Essex Crystal, Yellow Gold Dog Brooch - Victorian

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

An exceptional Victorian diamond, essex crystal and 9k yellow gold reverse intaglio dog brooch; part of our diverse antique jewellery and estate jewelry collections.

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Brooches

Materials

Crystal, Diamond, 9k Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Sapphire and Diamond Yellow Gold 'Brussels Griffon' Brooch
Antique Essex Crystal Sapphire and Diamond Yellow Gold 'Brussels Griffon' Brooch

Antique Essex Crystal Sapphire and Diamond Yellow Gold 'Brussels Griffon' Brooch

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The brooch is ornamented with a feature hand painted Essex crystal reverse intaglio, depicting a 'Brussels Griffon' dog.

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique 14k Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Painted Intaglio Horse Charm Medallion
Antique 14k Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Painted Intaglio Horse Charm Medallion

Antique 14k Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Painted Intaglio Horse Charm Medallion

Located in New York, NY

Delicated gold beading borders the crystal. A true collector's piece for those that collect reverse intaglio Essex crystal antiques or for those that simply love equestrian and hor...

Category

Antique 1890s European Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold

Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Fox' Cufflinks
Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Fox' Cufflinks

Antique 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Fox' Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a fox's head, framed within a plain and unembel...

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Victorian 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Pheasant' Cufflinks
Antique Victorian 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Pheasant' Cufflinks

Antique Victorian 1880s Essex Crystal and Yellow Gold 'Pheasant' Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have an circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each Essex crystal panel depicts a pheasant.

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Victorian Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog and Horse Cufflinks
Antique Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog and Horse Cufflinks

Antique Essex Crystal Yellow Gold Dog and Horse Cufflinks

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The links have a circular form, ornamented with a hand painted reverse intaglio Essex crystal panel. Each cufflink consists of two Essex crystal panels, one depicting a horse in rei...

Category

Antique 1880s Unknown Cufflinks

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

Art Deco Reverse Crystal Intaglio 'Essex Crystal' Dachshund
Art Deco Reverse Crystal Intaglio 'Essex Crystal' Dachshund

Art Deco Reverse Crystal Intaglio 'Essex Crystal' Dachshund

Located in Stamford, CT

This is the incredible art of reverse crystal intaglio also known as essex crystal.

Category

Vintage 1920s American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Stick Pin
Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Stick Pin

Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Yellow Gold Stick Pin

Located in Southampton, PA

14k Yellow Gold Victorian Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Horse Stick Pin. With domed round shape rock crystal.

Category

20th Century American Brooches

Materials

Rock Crystal, 14k Gold

Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Dog Diamond Pin Brooch
Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Dog Diamond Pin Brooch

Victorian 14 Karat Gold Essex Crystal Reverse Intaglio Dog Diamond Pin Brooch

Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.

This is a Victorian round pin brooch crafted in 14K gold. It depicts a hunting dog. The circular detail is made of cabochon cut rock crystal. The picture of a dog is hand drawn and i...

Category

Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold

Antique Essex Crystal Gold Crop Brooch
Antique Essex Crystal Gold Crop Brooch

Antique Essex Crystal Gold Crop Brooch

Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The brooch is ornamented with a hand painted Essex crystal reverse intaglio, depicting a racehorse and jockey.

Category

Vintage 1920s Unknown Brooches

Materials

Crystal, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold

Exceptional Essex Crystal English Bulldog Brooch Set With Diamonds & Sapphires
Exceptional Essex Crystal English Bulldog Brooch Set With Diamonds & Sapphires

Exceptional Essex Crystal English Bulldog Brooch Set With Diamonds & Sapphires

Located in Tampa, FL

This exceptional Essex crystal brooch features a hyper realistic reverse intaglio of an English Bulldog hand carved into rock crystal and hand painted to perfection.

Category

Antique Late 19th Century European Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Rock Crystal, Platinum, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

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H 0.95 in W 3.15 in D 2.37 in

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Located in GB

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Antique French Ch. Fontana & Cie Diamond Tiara Necklace Silver Upon Gold, c 1880
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Located in Narberth, PA

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Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal For Sale on 1stDibs

Find the exact reverse intaglio essex crystal you’re shopping for in the variety available on 1stDibs. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 14k Gold and Yellow Gold. You’re likely to find the perfect reverse intaglio essex crystal among the distinctive items we have available, which includes versions made as long ago as the 19th Century as well as those produced as recently as the 20th Century. Creating a reverse intaglio essex crystal has been a part of the legacy of many jewelers, but those produced by J.E. Caldwell & Co. are consistently popular. A reverse intaglio essex crystal can be a stylish choice for most occasions, but Crystal rings, from our inventory of 4, can add a particularly distinctive touch to your look, day or night. Today, if you’re looking for a cabochon version of this piece and are unable to find the perfect match, our selection also includes uncut alternatives. When shopping for a reverse intaglio essex crystal, you’ll find that there are less available pieces for unisex or men today than there are for women.

How Much is a Reverse Intaglio Essex Crystal?

The price for a reverse intaglio essex crystal starts at $950 and tops out at $5,430 with these brooches, on average, selling for $3,400.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.