Art Deco Diamond Platinum Gem Brooch
Located in Bay Harbor Islands, FL
It is further set with cabochon turquoise, emerald, ruby and step-cut onyx accents.
Early 20th Century Unknown Art Deco Brooches
Diamond, Emerald, Onyx, Ruby, Turquoise, Platinum
Art Deco Diamond Platinum Gem Brooch
Located in Bay Harbor Islands, FL
It is further set with cabochon turquoise, emerald, ruby and step-cut onyx accents.
Diamond, Emerald, Onyx, Ruby, Turquoise, Platinum
Vintage GIA Certified 5 Carat Heart Blue Sapphire, Diamond & Pearl Necklace
Located in Miami, FL
It is paired with additional cabochon-cut blue sapphire side stones and cabochon-cut ruby side stones, both secured in a bezel setting.
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Estate Art Deco Inspired Tutti Frutti, Carved Gemstone and Diamond Necklace
Located in New York, NY
This pendant necklace composed of round brilliant diamonds hand set in Platinum with a Art Deco Tutti Frutti style basket composed of hand carved Rubies, Sapphires and cabochon Emera...
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Cartier Tutti Frutti Lovers Bench Brooch
By Cartier
Located in New Orleans, LA
The bouquet features 11 round cut diamonds, emeralds carved into leaf-like shapes, carved blue sapphires and cabochon rubies. Evoking the delight of grand romantic gestures, this bea...
Coral, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
18K Yellow Gold Diamonds, Sapphire & Emeralds Earrings & Brooch/PIN Jewelry Set
Located in New York, NY
Impressive 18k gold set of earrings and a brooch mounted with ruby, sapphire and emerald cabochons, and diamonds.
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Cancer Zodiac Cuff Bracelet with Diamonds Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
It is decorated with hand cut banded blue agate and opalite. The eyes feature cabochon rubies. The design is complete with round diamonds set en pavé.
Agate, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Alexandre Reza, Rare Obsidian, Silver-Gilt, and Rock Crystal Circus Panther
Located in Long Island City, NY
Alexandre Reza, A Rare Obsidian, Silver-Gilt, and Rock Crystal Circus Panther, mounted with Cabochon Sapphires and Rubies. "Panthère au cirque"" / Panther at the circus" - an exquis...
Rock Crystal, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Silver
1900s Victorian Green Guilloché Enamel Beetle 14K Gold Brooch Diamond Sapphire
By SCALA GIOIELLI
Located in Marcianise, IT
The eyes of the beetle are represented by two cabochon rubies, each selected for its deep and enticing red.
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Silver
David Webb Kingdom Bracelet Ram Aries Gold Platinum Gemstones Estate Jewelry
By David Webb
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
The vintage Webb bangle is made of 18 karat yellow gold, platinum, cabochon rubies (approximately 0.75 carat total), emeralds (approximately 0.65 carat total), round brilliant cut di...
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
Sagittarius Zodiac Ring with Diamonds Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The zodiac Sagittarius ring features a bow and arrow design, the tip of the arrow carrying a cabochon ruby of 0.80 carats. The background is set with custom cut pawa shell (abalone) ...
White Diamond, Ruby, Crystal, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 14K Gold, Diamond and Multi Gemstone Thai Princess Harem Ring
Located in Derby, NY
Details Metal: 14K Yellow Gold (tested) Center Stone: Diamond, approximately 0.10 ct (estimated) Additional diamonds, 18 total Total diamond weight approximately .55 ct H/I color, ...
Coral, Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Moonstone, Multi-gemstone, Quartz, Ruby...
Unusual Mid Century Fob Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau style made with gilt filigree metalwork set with cabochon green and ruby pastes with a natural mother of pearl shard and peridot crystals.
Gilt Metal, Brass
Early Kenneth Jay Lane Moghul Elephant Brooch
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Early Moghul Elephant Brooch from the 1960's. 3D elephant with glass cabochons in ruby and emerald with faux pearls hanging from tusks. 2" x 1", Early mark, 1960's USA.
Gilt Metal
Unusual Chanel Renaissance Style Necklace
By Maison Gripoix for Chanel
Located in Riverdale, NY
Composed of five gilt bronze rounded plaques and Maison Gripoix Glass cast enamel square ruby and round emerald glass cabochons. Enhanced with emerald and ruby poured glass enamel p...
Gold Plate, Brass, Bronze, Enamel, Gilt Metal
Emerald Sugarloaf Royale Ring — 10.40 cts Zambian Emerald
Located in Hong Kong, HK
⸻ Key Details: • Emerald: 10.40ct Zambian Pear-Shaped Cabochon • Ruby Baguettes: 1.41ct • Agate: 2.55ct • White Diamonds: 1.72ct • Gold Weight: 18.06g of 18K White Gold
Emerald
$11,350
Tralleis Diatrita Necklace
Located in Istanbul, TR
Four diamond-set elements are arranged symmetrically around a central Cabochon Ruby, transforming the rhythm of Mosaic ornament into a three-dimensional jewel.
Diamond, Gold, 24k Gold
22332 Roberto Coin 18K White Gold 3.80ct Round Bezel Pink Sapphire Bracelet 7.5"
By Roberto Coin
Located in Chicago, IL
18k white gold bracelet weighs 23.3g 72 round pink sapphire, total weight 3.50ct 2 cabochon ruby weighs 0.30ct Total carat weight on the bracelet is 3.80ct Bracelet measures 18.6mm w...
Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1960s Bvlgari Moneta Roman Coin Necklace
By Bulgari
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold with an ancient Roman coin, Baguette cut Diamonds weighing approximately a total of 1.40 carat, Cabochon Rubies, and a Round Brilliant cut Diamond.
Diamond, 18k Gold
Art Deco Style Baroque Pearls Emeralds Gold Diamonds Enamels Jade Drop Earrings
By Tutti Frutti Jewellery
Located in Bangkok, TH
Classic Art Deco style earrings, the top parts with 2 pearls of 14 mm in diameter with small ruby 3 mm round cabochons in the center, the central parts consist of 2 elements of whit...
Diamond, Emerald, Jade, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
Oscar Heyman & Brothers 18k Yellow Gold & Platinum Swan Brooch w/ Diamonds
By Oscar Heyman
Located in Sherman Oaks, CA
Average Diamond Clarity: VS. Also Features a Cabochon Shaped Ruby. Dimensions: 2 in. x 0.88 in.
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
$10,400Sale Price|20% Off
Naga (Dragon) Bangle 22K Yellow Gold Multi-Gem
Located in Dallas, TX
The dragon features cabochon sapphire as eyes, a pearl in the mouth of the dragon, and 8 oval cut emeralds/8 cabochon rubies that measure on average 6 x 4mm.
22k Gold, Yellow Gold
Art Deco 14K Gold and Platinum Diamond and Gem Set Charm Bracelet
Located in Venice, CA
The next charm is from the Victorian era, and is a three-leaf clover with a emerald, ruby, and sapphire cabochons to represent the clover’s three leaves, suspended by a stem.
Diamond, 14k Gold, Platinum
Antique Demantoid Garnet and Diamond Lizard Brooch
Located in London, GB
Crafted from 18ct gold and silver, this playful piece is wonderfully detailed with a pair of tiny cabochon rubies at the eyes completing the ensemble.
Diamond, Garnet, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Art Nouveau Brooch with Emeralds, Pearls, Diamonds and Enamel, Paris c. 1900
Located in Berlin, DE
Size & Details Material: A natural saltwater pearl (oriental pearl), c. 11.00 ct, 15.2 x 12.7 mm Three smaller saltwater pearls (probably oriental pearls), total c. 1.65 ct, app...
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Bulgari Roma Fish Pesce Ring
By Bulgari
Located in Bethesda, MD
The playful fish motif showcases a luminous cabochon ruby eye that draws the gaze, while eighteen brilliant diamonds accent the band with timeless sparkle.
18k Gold
Retro Gold 3.25 Carat Natural Diamond Multicolor Cab Statement Ring Circa 1980
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Retro 18K yellow gold magnificent statement ring set with a cabochon ruby, emerald, and sapphire. At the center is a natural cabochon ruby measuring approximately 7 x 5 mm, surrounde...
Diamond, Gold
Pearl Topaz & Diamond Pendant Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Pearl Topaz & Diamond Pendant Necklace A Necklace featuring a strand of cultured pearls with diamond & gold spaceers suspending a llarge oval shape blue topaz with round & baguette...
Diamond, Pearl, Topaz, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage 1990's Italian Gold Horse bit and Miami Cuban Link 14k Necklace
Located in Great Neck, NY
Crafted in solid 14k yellow gold, the necklace features sculptural hardware elements accented with rich cabochon ruby stones, adding warmth, contrast, and subtle color to the polishe...
Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
$5,600Sale Price|20% Off
Natural Rubellite 5.55ct & Diamond 0.78ct Ring in 18k Gold, India
Located in jaipur, IN
This striking ring features a bold oval cabochon ruby at its center, radiating deep red hues that symbolize passion and elegance.
Diamond, 18k Gold
Gemstone and Diamond Cuban Link Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Front of the necklace is accented with 3 oval shaped, gem and diamond links. There is one cabochon cut sapphire, one cabochon cut emerald and one cabochon cut ruby, bezel set in 14k ...
Diamond, 14k Gold
Emerald Sugarloaf Royale Ring — 10.40 cts Zambian Emerald
Located in Hong Kong, HK
⸻ Key Details: • Emerald: 10.40ct Zambian Pear-Shaped Cabochon • Ruby Baguettes: 1.41ct • Agate: 2.55ct • White Diamonds: 1.72ct • Gold Weight: 18.06g of 18K White Gold
Emerald
Vintage 18k Two-Tone Green Marquise Emerald & Round Diamond Halo Cocktail Ring
By Unbranded
Located in Boca Raton, FL
Weight: 9.7 grams Ring size: 8.75 (sizable) Approximate Ring Length: 10.95mm (east to west of white gold halo) Ring Width: 23.30mm (north to south of entire ring, 17.25mm just the wh...
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Christian Lacroix Vintage Gold Red Heart Pineapple Criss Cross Chunky Earrings
By Christian Lacroix
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage 1980s Gripoix Ruby Red Heart Cabochon Love Pineapple Criss Cross Dots Drop Long Chunky Elegant Modernist Clip Earrings, Gold Tone Very good condition. 100%...
Gold Plate
$72,000Sale Price|20% Off
Multi Gemstone Choker Necklace, Ring, Bracelet, and Earring Matching Set set in
By Unbranded
Located in New York, NY
Gross Weight 28.17. 2 Oval Cabochon Natural Rubies and 2 Oval Cabochon Natural Sapphires equal 4.0 carats. 2 Oval Cabochon Natural Emeralds in total 2.40carats. 110 Round Brilliant C...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
NALLY JEWELS Diamond Bicycle Brooch In 18k Yellow Gold
Located in New York, NY
One of the handles, seat, wheels and chain cover encrusted with round brilliant cut diamonds, front and back light each bezel set with cabochon cut ruby. There is 87 round brilliant ...
Diamond, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. 18ct Gold Fish Brooch
Located in London, GB
The textured body is composed of individually sculpted gold scales that catch the light beautifully, giving the design both depth and movement. A cabochon ruby eye adds a subtle touc...
18k Gold
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Gripoix Gold Green Pearls Emerald Amethyst Aqua Earrings
By Robert Goossens for Yves Saint Laurent
Located in Wokingham, England
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Vintage Robert Goossens Arty Textured Large Gripoix Emerald Ruby Sapphire Green Blue Red Cabochon Crystals White Pearls Triangle Chunky Statement Clip Earrings...
Gold Plate
Vintage Chinese Dragon & Jade Longevity Plaque in 14K Gold with Gem Accents
Located in Miami, FL
This exceptional vintage Chinese export pendant showcases a powerful openwork dragon guardian motif crafted in solid 14K gold, crowned with cabochon emerald, ruby, and fine emerald a...
Jade, 14k Gold
Asprey London Diamond 16.10cts Multigems 18K Gold Parrot Brooch pin
By Asprey
Located in Miami, FL
The brooch is adorned with approximately 4.00 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds G-H color, VS Clarity, and approximately 12.10 carats of mystery-set natural gemstones, including...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Antique Victorian 18K Yellow Gold and Silver Diamond Pheasant Stick Pin
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
An antique diamond, ruby, silver, and yellow gold stick pin, comprising twenty-six rose cut diamonds, and one cabochon ruby, in silver and 18 and 9 karat yellow gold.
Diamond, 18k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
$3,788Sale Price|20% Off
Roger Scemama for Christian Dior French Designer 1950s Gripoix Pendant Necklace
By Roger Scemama
Located in Warminster, GB
A heavily gold plated hand made metal bow, mounted with a large blue ribbed melon bead, inset with a clear rhinestone, from which is suspended a lozenge shaped pendant inset with a l...
Irlan 18 Karat Gold and Enamel Frog on a 5.65 Carat Diamond Lily Pad Brooch
By Irlan
Located in New York, NY
He is accented with diamonds and cabochon ruby eyes. He sits on a lily pad set with round brilliant diamonds.
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Vintage Linda Levinson Byzantine Coin Brooch & Earrings 1980s
By Linda Levinson
Located in Wilmslow, GB
The Roman coin motifs, framed by simulated pearls and glass cabochon accents in ruby red, create a sense of depth and texture.
Vintage Sandor Renaissance Inspired Necklace & Earrings 1940s
By Sandor
Located in Wilmslow, GB
Exquisitely crafted in gold-plated metal, the piece showcases intricate metalwork paired with deep marquise-cut ruby crystals and richly coloured glass cabochons, emulating rubies an...
Seaman Schepps Aquamarine, Diamond Brooch
By Seaman Schepps
Located in New York, NY
The brooch features rectangluar step cut aquamarine, framed in platinum reeform set with square-cut synthetic rubies, oval-shaped cabochon rubies, and old euro, single and baguette-c...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
Denise Roberge 22k Yellow Gold Hand Carved Tourmaline Bottle Enhancer Pendant
By Denise Roberge
Located in Montclair, NJ
--Stone(s):-- (1) Natural Genuine Tourmaline - Hand Carved - Dark Pink Color - 31.9x20.9mm (approx.) (1) Natural Genuine Ruby - Round Cabochon Cut - Dark Red Color - 2.5mm (approx.)
Tourmaline, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mughal-Inspired Vintage Necklace with Glass and Mother-of-Pearl Inlays
Located in Monroe Township, NJ
The rich, organic design is further enhanced by luminous mother-of-pearl (MOP) inlays, each featuring a ruby-hued glass cabochon, creating an ethereal contrast.
David Webb Green Enamel and Gold Frog Pin Brooch Pendant
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
18k Yellow Gold "Lucky Frog" Ruby & Green Enamel Pin Brooch by David Webb. With 2 cabochon ruby stones: 6mm x 5mm.
Gold, Enamel
Antique Victorian 15K Gold and Silver Diamond Swallow and Ear of Wheat Brooch
Located in Staines-Upon-Thames, GB
An antique diamond, ruby, silver, and yellow gold brooch, comprising fifty-four rose cut diamonds, and one cabochon ruby, in silver and 15 and 9 karat yellow gold.
Diamond, 15k Gold, 9k Gold, Silver
Unusual Maison Gripoix Starfish Brooch
By Maison Gripoix
Located in New York, NY
Hand made poured glass with distinctive feather work glass in petals with center of ruby and aquamarine glass cabochons. Elaborate metal work with beaded setting in antique bronze fi...
Bronze, Gilt Metal
Antique Victorian / Aesthetic Movement Gold-Filled Bracelet Charm or Watch Fob
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Having applied wirework and granulation throughout. With a bezel-set ruby colored glass cabochons to the center of each of the cube's 6 sides.
Gold-filled
Rare Maison Gripoix Flower Basket Brooch
By Maison Gripoix
Located in New York, NY
Crafted in a manner no longer possible with various blooms of hand made poured glass set in a filigree basket with jeweled ruby and emerald paste cabochon borders. Extraordinary work...
Brass, Bronze, Gilt Metal
GEORGIAN 1820 Blue And White Enameled Necklace In Sterling Silver With Marcasite
Located in Miami, FL
Like the term Victorian (used for jewelry during Queen Victoria's rule), it is accepted in use as a term that refers to certain styles of jewelry. Pearls, sapphires, rubies and garne...
Marcasite, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
Vintage Jadeite Onyx 18K Gold Beaded Large Brooch Pendant Necklace
Located in Miami, FL
Surrounding the jadeite are 38 round brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.35 carats, offering a delicate sparkle, and with vibrant cabochon rubies and square-cut rubies ad...
Onyx, 18k Gold
Albert Lipten 18 Karat Yellow Gold Hobby Horse Brooch with .60 Carat Diamonds
By Albert Lipten
Located in New York, NY
The rein is set with round brilliant diamonds along with a single bezel set diamond. The eye is a cabochon ruby. The brooch measures 2 7/8" in length.
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Enamel And Seed Pearl Snake Necklace Mid-19Th Century
Located in Firenze, IT
The snake, in particular, is decorated with blue enamels, eyes that stand out for being cabochon rubies and natural pearls of different sizes.
Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Vintage Christian Lacroix Multicolor Gem Heart Brooch
By Christian Lacroix
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
It is adorned with an array of multicolored poured glass gems, including ruby glass cabochons, crystals, and faux pearls.
Gilt Metal
18K White and Yellow Gold Drop Earrings with Coral
Located in Bergamo, BG
Key Features: 18K white and yellow gold drop earrings Natural coral flower carvings Diamonds: 0.78 carats total Rubies: 0.81 carats total (cabochon cut) Sapphires: 0.58 carats total...
Diamond, White Diamond, Coral, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
18k Gold and Jade Squirrel Brooch
Located in New York, NY
18k Gold and Jade Squirrel Brooch It has eyes that are cabochon ruby an diamond and nose that is cabochon sapphire.
18k Gold
Ancient Ostrogothic Silver Eagle Headed Buckle, Byzantine Era, 6th Century A.D.
Located in New York, NY
A bold projecting eagle head profile set with a cabochon ruby color glass eye, the neck chased with linear geometric motifs, adjoining a rectangular plate with a large oval ruby colo...
Silver
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.
Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.
Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.
Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.
When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.
Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.