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Tom Wood Signet

Gucci 1990 Tom Ford Signet Ring in 18 Karat White Gold with Jasper Ironstone
By Tom Ford for Gucci
Located in Miami, FL
Signet ring designed by Tom Ford for Gucci. A modernist geometric cushion shaped ring, designed
Category

1990s Italian Modernist Signet Rings

Materials

Quartz, Jasper, 18k Gold, Gold, White Gold

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Tom Ford for Gucci for sale on 1stDibs

No one understands sex appeal quite like Tom Ford, who joined Gucci as a womens-wear designer in 1990.

At the time, the internationally renowned Italian label was better known for leather goods than luxury fashion. It was also nearly bankrupt. After creative director Dawn Mello left in 1994, following a Bahrain-based investment group becoming Gucci’s majority shareholder, Ford was named creative director. The American designer soon infused the brand with a fresh sensuality and bold style.

Ford's potent vision of sexed-up femininity spanned everything from shirts to shoes to handbags and other accessories at Gucci — he reimagined the house's iconic double-ring-and-bar Horsebit hardware, a reference to the brand’s equestrian history, as a seductive low-slung belt, worn by Madonna when accepting an MTV video music award in 1995. For his fall show during that year, in which Kate Moss walked down the runway in an unbuttoned satin shirt, velvet hip-huggers and tousled hair, heralded an exciting, glammed-up era for the once fusty brand. Vogue critic Sarah Mower called it “one of those hitting-in-the-solar-plexus moments.”

As Ford shot to fame, he continued to explore plunging necklines, such as in the black and white looks of the Fall 1996 collection, and sumptuous fabrics like leather and tweed, with the Fall 2000 ready-to-wear collection ranging from sultry silk evening dresses to plush belted coats.

Ford also cranked up the seduction in the provocative ads for Gucci, particularly with regard to campaigns for Yves Saint Laurent, which the fashion house acquired in 1999 (Ford was also named creative director for YSL and designed the brand’s ready-to-wear collection). Gucci's Fall/Winter 1997 campaign featured Carolyn Murphy grasping Angela Lindvall in what looked like a video still; in another shot, a face pressed against a foot in a lipstick-red heel. Each promoted a vision of modern fashion where women were sexually confident, the materials were luxurious and the styles were fearless.

In 2004, Ford and Gucci president Domenico De Sole left the company after failing to agree on the renewal of their contracts. In 2006, with De Sole as chairman, Ford launched his wildly successful eponymous menswear label. Today Ford is also an author, film director and chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

Find vintage Tom Ford Gucci day dresses, jackets and shoulder bags on 1stDibs.

Finding the Right signet-rings for You

Traditionally considered a ring for men, a vintage signet ring is a popular gift today for anyone who desires an expressive, timeless piece of jewelry that can feature all manner of engraved motifs, gemstones, specific symbols or monograms.

Whether it's an antique gold signet ring, diamond signet ring or some other classic iteration, signet rings get their name from signus, which means “sign” in Latin.

These rings, which may historically be referred to as “seal rings,” date back thousands of years and were used as a form of signature. Whatever may have been engraved on the ring — a married couple’s initials, a family crest — identified ownership for the purposes of authenticating documents and more when impressed on soft wax. During the Middle Ages, signet rings were symbols of power and prestige and common accessories for nobility. Later, during the 19th century, precious and semiprecious stones such as rubies and diamonds were added to gold signet rings as they took on a more ornate appearance than they had previously. 

In recent years, fashion has been primarily about individuality, and nothing is more personal than a jewel bearing a name or monogram. That is the reason jewelers have revived traditional signet rings, custom-engraving their designs with customers’ preferred words or symbols. Those who prefer the thrill of the hunt have a range of vintage letter charms and pendants to sift through.

And it isn't all about men's signet rings anymore, either — the accessory is for everyone. Princess Diana wore a signet ring that was a gift from Charles before their wedding, and we all know that the royals are top-tier fashion influencers, especially when it comes to rings.

Find vintage diamond signet rings, onyx signet rings and other types of rings on 1stDibs.