Vintage Missoni Coat

In 1953, Ottavio “Tai” (1921–2013) and Rosita (b. 1931) Missoni opened a small knitwear shop in Gallarate, Italy, paving the way for what would become an iconic style of colorful chevron knit.

Missoni began with a tracksuit, which featured zippers down the legs because, as Rosita recalls it, “Tai was too lazy to take off his shoes when putting them on.” The couple’s fashion really took off, though, once they discovered the Raschel knitting machine on a trip to a shawl factory. The machine enabled the Missonis to knit multiple colors in a zigzag pattern, a motif that would go on to become synonymous with the Missoni brand across everything from its alluring vintage day dresses and sweaters to its purses, seating and rugs.

Missoni held its first fashion show in Florence in 1967 and caused a bit of a sensation when the models’ Lurex dresses proved translucent under the lights at the Pitti Palace. Scandal aside, the show went down in history as a hit, and the Missonis soon made their debut in the United States with the help of legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland, who gave the variegated Missoni stripe the Vogue seal of approval, saying, “Who says a rainbow has seven colors? It has many shades.” (It was also Vreeland who reportedly introduced the Missonis to Neiman Marcus president Stanley Marcus, effectively shepherding the brand to the American market.)

Missoni’s many-shaded rainbow would soon become an emblem of the 1970s fashion scene, earning the brand a permanent place in the fashion canon. In 1973, the New York Times proclaimed: “Missoni’s weaved garments have ended up universal materialistic trifles, as Vuitton sacks and Gucci shoes.”

The brand branched into the home market in 1983, with Rosita overseeing this new venture, which included furniture, textiles and accessories. Daughter Angela succeeded her mother at the helm of the brand, where she still serves as president and creative director today; her brother Luca is CEO, while her daughter Margherita is creative director of offshoot M Missoni.

Find vintage Missoni clothing and accessories today on 1stDibs.

There is a stylish garment for anywhere in the universe, and on 1stDibs, finding the right vintage and designer coats and outerwear doesn’t have to feel like a journey to the ends of the earth.

Outerwear includes many types of garments aside from the standard coat. From capes, gilets, jackets and cloaks to raincoats and kimonos, fashion designers have long been preparing us for the elements, and outerwear in general has changed and evolved significantly over time.

A lot of the coat styles in our closets, such as the durable Navy-inspired peacoat, were popularized by soldiers who battled aggressive climes in their regulation field jackets and parkas — indeed, keeping troopers comfortable guided the design of the military surplus garments that have often become buzzy fashion trends. Even today, owing to the likes of Burberry, a luxury fashion house that is among the originators of the trench coat worn by British officers during World War I, the trench remains a timeless style, now available in a range of colors that can be worn throughout the year.

While women in late 1700s England donned an adaptation of a men’s jacket called a spencer — the likeness of which could be spotted in Ralph Lauren’s ready-to-wear collections hundreds of years later — designers hadn’t widely been crafting outerwear specifically for women. Generally, the outerwear of choice for the fashionable, well-heeled lady prior to the 1800s usually consisted of capes, shawls and stoles. By the mid-1800s, women were wearing overcoats with multiple layered collars popularized by men (often called a Garrick coat in England), and as women entered the workforce during the 1920s, hemlines climbed, jewelry was prominent and fashion conventions were broken across the board.

Thankfully, the 20th century’s tradition of challenging the norm continues steadfast in today’s outerwear fashions. Contemporary designers certainly find inspiration in 1960s and 1970s coats by Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent and Bonnie Cashin, but unisex options abound in modern creations that take both function and style into account. Find what inspires you in the full range of vintage and designer coats and outerwear available for sale on 1stDibs.