Ossie Clark Celia Birtwell

It’s hardly an exaggeration to say that neither the Swinging Sixties nor the hippie looks of the 1970s would have been what they were if not for Ossie Clark, who popularized the flamboyant fashion synonymous with the eras.

Born Raymond Clark in 1942, the designer moved as a boy to Oswaldtwistle, the source of his lifelong nickname. Clark began studies in architecture at just 13, a foundation that instilled in him the lessons of proportion and scale that would inform his day dresses, suits and other unique clothing decades later.

After learning tailoring, pattern cutting and more important technical skills at the Regional College of Art in Manchester (now the Manchester School of Art), Clark attended London’s prestigious Royal College of Art. There, he began a lifelong friendship with the artist David Hockney, who would eventually paint a portrait of Clark and his wife and partner, Celia Birtwell, also a designer.

Clark’s graduation show in 1964, featuring at least one garment decorated with a line of light bulbs, made instant waves in the fashion world, foreshadowing the career he would have as a boundary-pushing creative. He landed his first feature in British Vogue just months later and was a veritable instant addition to the London fashion scene. While he was still a student, Clark’s designs were being sold in the famous London boutique Quorum, and Henri Bendel had brought his collection to New York. His fashions soon became inextricably linked with the famous “Chelsea Girls” of the decade.

Clark’s clothing ran the gamut from free-flowing garments in muted hues to graphic patterns in bold colors informed by a fascination with Pop art and flora. He collaborated with Birtwell for most of his career, incorporating her dynamic Art Deco–inspired prints in his work before the couple parted in the 1970s. Clark favored crepes and chiffons and paid close attention to small details, often eschewing simple zippers in favor of, say, fabric-covered buttons. At the end of the 1960s, Clark adjusted hemlines to the maxi length and introduced a line of chiffon dresses intended to be worn over a nude body.

Clark’s penchant for flowing pants, bell sleeves and fringe is largely regarded as popularizing the archetype of 1970s fashion in London and the United States — influence bolstered, no doubt, by his dressing such A-list clients as Mick Jagger, Liza Minelli and The Beatles. A gifted draper, he was known for his uniquely flattering fits. As footwear icon Manolo Blahnik once said, “He created an incredible magic with the body and achieved what fashion should do — produce desire.”

Find vintage Ossie Clark evening dresses, blouses, day dresses and more on 1stDibs.

From museum-worthy vintage Oscar de la Renta evening dresses and jackets to audacious T-shirts and trousers from provocative punk designer Vivienne Westwood, one thing is abundantly clear: If the clothing available on 1stDibs could talk, it would certainly make a statement. 

For fashion lovers, the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers — think Galliano and Cavalli — but maybe ‘80s accessories are among your (guilty?) pleasures. Playful, boldly colored coats and outerwear from Moschino and other titans of the era can take a simpler ensemble to the next level, while chic and practical suits from the likes of Christian Dior and Chanel remain classic for haute couture advocates and beyond. By exploring the vast array of vintage collections on these pages, you can transform your closet into a retreat that is as retro as it is royal. 

Velvet cocktail dresses and silk evening gowns designed by French-born American couturiere Pauline Trigère — who dressed Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor — have proven timeless since their mid-century debut, while an overcoat by Alexander McQueen is the perfect finishing touch. In fact, an emerald one stays in rotation for Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge.

Those seeking modern high-fashion brands are also in luck. Turn your day-to-day into a runway with selections from Dolce & Gabbana, Yves Saint Laurent and Versace or complete that fresh look with stunning footwear classics from the likes of Gucci and Christian Louboutin. The future — and glamorous past — of fashion is yours for the wearing. 

Build your collection of covetable and iconic vintage garments by shopping on 1stDibs. No matter where you roam, our diverse apparel and accessories will keep you covered in the hottest styles and comfiest black hoodie imaginable.