Margiela ivory cotton down filled duvet coat with brown wool cover, fw 1999
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Medium (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14028498322
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Paul Daunay Couture silk and wool dress and coat ensemble, c. 1952-57By Paul DaunayLocated in London, GBPresenting an exquisite and exceptionally rare Paul Daunay couture fall daytime ensemble, a true gem hailing from the era of circa 1952-57. This ensemble is a stunning showcase of ar...Category
1950s French Day Dresses
- Dolce & Gabbana blue and black tie-dyed fur maxi coat, fw 1999By Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GB▪ Dolce & Gabbana blue and black tie-dyed maxi coat ▪ Sheared rabbit fur ▪ Wide cropped sleeves ▪ Snap button closures ▪ IT 40 - FR 36 - UK 8 - US 4 ▪ Fall-Winter 1999Category
1990s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Men's Yohji Yamamoto grey wool and silk polkadot evening robe, fw 2009By Yohji YamamotoLocated in London, GB▪ Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme charcoal grey evening robe ▪ 80% Wool, 20% Silk ▪ Snap button closures ▪ Polkadot belt and pockets ▪ 100% Silk lining ▪ J...Category
Early 2000s Coats and Outerwear
- John Galliano brown leather twisted off-shoulder jacket, fw 2000By John GallianoLocated in London, GB▪ John Galliano brown leather jacket ▪ Off-shoulder ▪ Bias cut panels ▪ Front button closure ▪ Asymmetric hemline ▪ FR 42 - UK 14 - US 8 ▪ Fall-Winter 2000Category
Early 2000s French Jackets
- John Galliano plum wool coat with tassel trim, fw 1998By John GallianoLocated in London, GB▪ John Galliano plum wool coat ▪ 100% Wool, Lining: 100% Silk ▪ Black pattern trim with tassels ▪ Fabric covered buttons on cuffs ▪ Shawl lapel draped around the neck fastening wit...Category
1990s French Coats and Outerwear
- Dolce & Gabbana floral beaded silk evening coat, ss 1999By Dolce & GabbanaLocated in London, GBDolce & Gabbana metallic floral printed silk evening coat with beading and sequins. Spring-Summer 1999Category
1990s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Verheyen London Edward Leather Coat in White with Faux Fur - Size uk 8By Verheyen LondonLocated in London, GBVerheyen London Edward Leather Coat in White with Faux Fur - Size uk 8 The Edward Leather Coat created by Verheyen London is a romantic design inspired by the 1970s and Edwardian E...Category
2010s British Coats
- Givenchy White Tie-Dye Heart Printed Cotton Knit Oversized Hoodie SBy GivenchyLocated in Dubai, Al Qouz 2Step out in style with this cool Givenchy oversized hoodie. Coming in a tie-dye heart print, the white hoodie is the epitome of comfort and trendy f...Category
2010s French Hooded Jackets
- rare LOUIS VUITTON 2020 Runway yellow detachable tie sleeves parka jacket FR46 SBy Virgil Abloh, Louis VuittonLocated in Hong Kong, NTrare LOUIS VUITTON 2020 Runway yellow detachable tie sleeves parka jacket FR46 S Reference: TGAS/C01496 Brand: Louis Vuitton Designer: Virgil...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Hooded Jackets
- DSQUARED2 Vintage white tent embroidery leather collar denim jacket IT38 XSBy Dsquared2Located in Hong Kong, NTDSQUARED2 Vintage white tent embroidery leather collar denim jacket IT38 XS Brand: Dsquared2 Material: Denim Color: White Pattern: Solid Closure: Button Extra Detail: Leather collar ...Category
2010s Coats
- CHRISTIAN DIOR ivory white MINK FUR COLLARLESS CROPPED Jacket 38 SBy Christian DiorLocated in Zürich, CH100% authentic Christian Dior collarless jacket in off-white mink (100%). Opens with four hooks on the front. Lined in off-white silk (100%). Has been worn and is in excellent condit...Category
2010s Coats
- Gucci Cape with Oversize Wool Scarf size LBy GucciLocated in Brossard, QCA oversize cape with a scarf that overlap the whole piece for a layered, dimensional look. Dramatic capes are draped over eclectic looks, reinterpreting the House's distinct narrativ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Capes
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.