GIVENCHY Couture A/W 1996 JOHN GALLIANO Charcoal Gray Wool Bow Shirt Coat Dress

Known for introducing rich theatricality and memorable fashion spectacles to the runway, John Galliano has enjoyed a singular career. The audacious British designer has garnered universal acclaim for genre-breaking collections not only at his eponymous label but also for Givenchy and Christian Dior.

From his embroidered absinthe-green Oscars gown for actress Nicole Kidman to the iconic sleeveless newspaper-print dress that Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw made famous, Galliano’s intricate and multifaceted work is reliably newsworthy, drawing on history as often as it embodies a fresh and forward-looking sensibility, and over the years the designer has helped shape an ever-broadening new legion of enthusiasts for Parisian couture.

Born in Gibraltar but raised in South London by strict Roman Catholic working-class parents, Galliano attended the all-boys Church of England grammar school, where his flamboyance and interest in art attracted the attention of bullies. Eventually, Galliano ended up at the prestigious design and art school Central Saint Martins College (then called Saint Martin’s School of Art), where fellow British designers Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen also trained.

Galliano flourished at Central Saint Martins. While a student, he worked in the costume department at the National Theatre in London. His graduate collection in 1984, dubbed “Les Incroyables” and named for post–French Revolution fashion lovers, was modeled by close friends of his and earned a standing ovation. The line ended up in the storefront windows of London luxury boutique Brown’s on South Molton Street, and Galliano’s first official collection — after he graduated — debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 1989.

In the early 1990s, Galliano’s relationship with his financial backer, Plein Sud’s Faycal Amor, ended, and by 1994, he was broke and sleeping on the floor of a friend’s apartment. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and then-Vanity Fair editor André Leon Talley stepped in and introduced the budding designer to Portuguese socialite and fashion patron São Schlumberger and others. At Schlumberger’s Hôtel Particulier, Galliano’s shows became the stuff of fashion legend. His collection, a blend of Japanese modernist style as well as nostalgia for Art Deco and 1940s’ tailoring, earned raves in glossy magazines and garnered the attention of Princess Diana, Madonna and other fashion luminaries.

Once the Galliano name was well known among the world’s most stylish set, the chairperson of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, appointed Galliano head designer of French fashion house Givenchy. One year later, in 1996, LVMH moved him to the design team at Dior, where he produced scores of celebrated looks for Dior Haute Couture. Today, Galliano is the creative director of Maison Margiela.

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Venerated French designer Hubert de Givenchy (1927–2018) made a splash with his first collection of mix-and-match separates in 1952, which launched his namesake fashion house, the clean lines and refined silhouettes of the pieces offering a contrast to the more structured shapes then dominating postwar women’s fashion. His roster of clients would eventually include Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, all of whom were drawn to the designer’s architecturally and materially simple pieces that combined sensual femininity with elegance.

At the age of 17, Givenchy left his hometown of Beauvais, France, for Paris. There he studied drawing at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts and apprenticed for the houses of Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Schiaparelli. Givenchy earned his first high praise for the 1952 Bettina blouse, an embroidered, ruffle-sleeve linen shirt named for his publicist and model Bettina Graziani. The Givenchy label soon developed a following of fashion icons around the world, most notably Audrey Hepburn, who would serve as Givenchy’s muse for decades after they met in 1953. The couturier created pieces for many of her films, such as the iconic little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), as well as her personal life, including her wedding dress for her 1969 marriage to Andrea Dotti.

Givenchy formed a close friendship with his idol and mentor, Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, with whom he’d popularize such pieces as the sack dress, choosing looser forms over tailored ones. Throughout the decades, Givenchy expanded his empire to include fragrances, menswear, accessories and beauty lines.

In 1988, his house was acquired by luxury conglomerate LVMH. After Givenchy retired from fashion in 1995, he became an antiques expert, working with Christie’s and the Louvre, among other institutions. The brand then saw an impressive succession of head designers and artistic directors: John Galliano was the first to arrive, followed by Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald, Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller and Matthew M. Williams. Today, the brand, with its timeless fashions, continues to be a favorite of A-listers, including Cate Blanchett, Erykah Badu, Lady Gaga and Ariana Grande.

On 1stDibs, browse a collection of vintage Givenchy evening dresses, handbags, necklaces and other clothing and accessories today.