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Hermès Chaine d' Ancre Yellow Gold Bracelet, circa 1985



Chic yet Timeless, absolutely Iconic Hermès 18K Yellow Gold Chaine d'Ancre Bracelet, a rare 1980's stunning piece. The story of this bracelet began more than 80 years ago, in 1938, when Robert Dumas, a member of the Hermès family, decided to take inspiration from a ship anchor chain to design a bracelet. Thus the Chaine d'Ancre was born: a naturally balanced jewel with a sporty yet chic allure. The links of the chain, polished, elliptical and round grained, play on shapes and volumes reflecting the company's chain-making expertise. This 12 links bracelet, is still in perfect, excellent conditions, as NEW, in its case and pouch. Bracelet Weight: 2.97Troy Ounces (92,408g), more than later models. Lenght: 8.267 inches(21cm) Hermès, Gold and Tète d'Aigle Marks

Custom Services

We are pleased to offer resizing as well as custom engraving for this piece. Customization is available within 24 hours.


  • Creator
  • Metal
  • Weight
    2.97 t oz
  • Dimensions
    Width: 1.5748 in. (40 mm)Length: 8.267 in. (209.99 mm)
  • Style
  • Place of Origin
  • Period
  • Date of Manufacture
    circa 1985
  • Condition
  • Seller Location
    Valenza, IT
  • Reference Number
    Seller: Hermès Yellow Gold chaine d'ancre bracelet, large size1stDibs: LU584313888962

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping
    Free Shipping: $130 Express Parcel Shipping
    to United States 0, arrives in 7-8 days.
    We recommend this shipping type based on item size, type and fragility.
    Customs Duties & Taxes May Apply.
    Ships From: Valenza, Italy
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery. Please be advised, certain types of customizations are not eligible for returns.

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About the Designer


For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
About the Seller
5 / 5
Located in Valenza, Italy
Platinum Seller
These expertly vetted sellers are 1stDibs' most experienced sellers and are rated highest by our customers.
Established in 1971
1stDibs seller since 2016
203 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: <1 hour
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