1960s Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Sapphire Demantoid Fish Pin
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1960s Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Sapphire Demantoid Fish Pin
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:18k Gold
- Stone:Garnet,Sapphire
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:20th Century
- Date of Manufacture:20th Century
- Condition:Excellent.
- Seller Location:Chestnut Hill, MA
- Reference Number:Seller: 21566101stDibs: JU110518146137
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- Tiffany & Co. Demantoid Garnet & Diamond Fish BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany & Co. demantoid garnet and diamond fish brooch Round-cut demantoid garnets of approximately 1.60 carats, one round brilliant-cut diamond, 18 kar...Category
Late 20th Century Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Sterling Silver Gold Fish PinBy Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYFigural mommy and baby fish pin. Made and signed by TIFFANY & CO. The mother fish is sterling silver; the baby is 18K gold. Both have faceted sapphire eyes...Category
1990s American Brooches
MaterialsSapphire, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Diamond Platinum Gold Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NY18k gold and platinum brooch, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, adorned with approx. 1.20ctw in diamonds. Brooch is 44mm x 45mm. Marked: Tiffany & Co, Schlumberger, 750, pt950. ...Category
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- Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Gold Ruby Hedgehog Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYAdorable 18k yellow gold hedgehog brooch , designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Set with tiny ruby eyes. The brooch measures 1.25" x 7/8". Hallmarked on the back : Tiffany...Category
20th Century French Brooches
MaterialsRuby, Gold
- Tiffany & Co. " J. Schlumberger " BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany Schlumberger diamond and emeradl bird on a branch brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The bird is made in platinum, body fully encrusted with round brilliant cut diamonds...Category
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MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Diamond Yellow Gold Platinum Pin BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Platinum Diamond Brooch Pin by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. With 21 round brilliant cut diamonds VS1 clarity, G colo...Category
Vintage 1980s American Brooches
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