Antique Ceramic Deer Brooch by Lucien Neuquelman for Elsa Schiaparelli, 1930
About the Item
- Creator:
- Dimensions:Length: 2.37 in (60 mm)
- Style:Art Nouveau
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:1930-1939
- Date of Manufacture:1930s
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU2861222833482
Elsa Schiaparelli
From her signature color Shocking Pink to her collaborations with Surrealist artists, the boldly original Elsa Schiaparelli transformed fashion with her haute couture house from the late 1920s to the early ’50s. Experimenting with elements like trompe l’oeil images and colorful visible zippers, the Italian designer instilled a provocative avant-garde artistry in her clothing and accessories, including those created with Salvador Dalí, such as the lobster dress and a hat shaped like a shoe.
Born in Rome, Schiaparelli was a rebellious child who grew up among the city’s intellectual elite. She had a voracious appetite for reading and became interested in ancient cultures, astronomy and world religions. Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome, and after publishing a collection of poems on love and sensuality that so mortified her conservative parents that they tried, unsuccessfully, to confine her to a Swiss convent, she left for London.
A quick marriage to Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor brought her to New York, but it would be in Paris following her divorce that Schiaparelli embraced her artistic passions. She moved to the French capital city in 1922 with her young daughter and happened to meet master couturier Paul Poiret, who loaned the stylish Schiaparelli his clothes, sparking her own fashion interests.
Schiaparelli opened her modest atelier in Paris and debuted her first collection of knitwear in 1927, and later that year, she designed a black-and-white pullover hand-knit wool sweater featuring a trompe l’oeil bowknot that captured the attention of the fashion world. Vogue called it “an artistic masterpiece.” The success led to her moving her house to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935 where thousands of garments were produced each year.
Schiaparelli’s knitwear collections were later accompanied by revolutionary swimsuits and other clothing and accessories. Her inventive designs would include culottes — a radical statement in the 1930s when women still could cause a scandal by wearing pants — as well as printed fabric, such as the 1938 Tears dress with a print designed by Dalí making it appear as if the evening gown had been savagely ripped.
Schiaparelli was among the first designers to use materials like rayon and Lurex as well as explore wrap dresses and transparent raincoats. She also introduced unisex fragrances and brought her artistic partnerships into jewelry, such as bronze brooches made with Alberto Giacometti and fur-lined bracelets with Méret Oppenheim. As she wrote in her 1954 autobiography Shocking Life, women should “dare to be different.”
Despite her acclaim, her shop closed in 1954 after a tumultuous time during World War II. By then, fashion had moved on with Christian Dior's New Look, and the closure of Schiaparelli's business coincided with a comeback mounted by Coco Chanel, her archrival in the early days.
In 2006, Italian businessman Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and its archives, and the Maison Schiaparelli was reopened in 2012, back at 21 Place Vendôme where Schiaparelli's fearless and enduring work began.
Find vintage Elsa Schiaparelli hats, evening dresses and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Alpharetta, GA
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Yves Saint Laurent Vintage Starfish Brooch, 1980sBy Yves Saint LaurentLocated in New York, NYYves Saint Laurent vintage starfish brooch Period: 1980s Gold-Tone Metal Length: 2.75″ / 7 cm Width: 3″ / 7,6 cm Designer Signature, Made in France Condition – very good .......Category
Vintage 1980s French Retro Brooches
- Vintage Karl Lagerfeld Red Enamel Gold Plated Shovel Pin Brooch, 1990sBy Karl LagerfeldLocated in New York, NYVintage rare shovel pin brooch by Karl Lagerfeld. Made from gold plated metal and red enamel. Period: 1990s Condition: very good, light scratches throughout metal. ........Additiona...Category
1990s French Art Nouveau Brooches
MaterialsEnamel
- Robert Goossens vintage brooch, 1960sBy Robert GoossensLocated in New York, NYStunning brooch with turquoise cluster, made by Robert Goossens in 1961. Handmade pate de verre beads made to simulate turquoise matrix set in a gilded bronze web scattered with pa...Category
Vintage 1960s Italian Baroque Brooches
- Vintage Rare Enamel Reja Carrot Brooch, 1940SBy RejaLocated in New York, NYVintage enamel brooch by Reja in the form of carrot with green haulm and rhinestones embelishment. Very rare. Not signed. Period: 1940s. Cond...Category
Vintage 1940s American Retro Brooches
MaterialsEnamel
- Vintage Boucher Jelly Belly leaves enamel rhinestones brooch, 1980sBy Boucher JewelersLocated in New York, NYVintage Jelly Belly brooch by Boucher. Features enamel leaves on lucite core. Embellished with rhinestones. Rare. Signed. Measurements: Length...Category
Vintage 1980s American Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsEnamel
- Vintage Coro Parrot Duette Brooch-Fur Clip, 1940sBy CoroLocated in New York, NYVintage iconic brooch by Coro features two parrots on a tree branch. Lavishly decorated with rhinestones and accented with colorful enamel det...Category
Vintage 1940s American Art Nouveau Brooches
- One of a Kind 18 Karat White Gold Diamonds Blue Pink Sapphires Butterfly BroochBy FRALEONILocated in Rome, IT18 kt. white gold brooch with 4.84 carat of round-cut diamonds ( H-I color - VVS1-VVS2 ) and 39.26 carat of double rose-cut blue and pink sapphires. This one of a kind brooch...Category
2010s Italian Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
- Bodyfurnitures Brooch: Double View Rock Crystal with Tourmalines, Pearls, SilverBy BodyfurnituresLocated in Bolzano, BZBrooch “Fili bianca”, 2021, is a one-of-a-kind contemporary author jewelry by italian artist Gian Luca Bartellone. Materials: papier-mâché, silver, iron, rock crystal, tourmalines, p...Category
2010s Italian Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsAmethyst, Citrine, Coral, Rubelite, Crystal, Pearl, Rock Crystal, Tourma...
- Vintage 18Kt Yellow Gold Giraffe BroochesLocated in Milano, ITCaptivating Italian Craftsmanship: 18kt Yellow Gold Giraffe Twin Brooches Add a touch of whimsy and elegance to your collection with these delightful twin giraffe brooches...Category
Vintage 1970s Italian Brooches
MaterialsRuby, Yellow Gold
- Faraone Rubies Brooch 60'sLocated in Milano, MIAs we would expect from Faraone this brooch boasts the highest quality rubies and diamonds together with an elaborate design typical of the goldsmiths from the era. A real gem that c...Category
Vintage 1960s Italian Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Antique 4.00 ct old mine cut diamond Giardinetto brooch pendant with GuillocheLocated in Magdeburg, DEThis brooch was made in France or Germany around 1850 and is in very good, antique condition. The diamonds are all set in silver with open backs. - One large old mine cut diamond,...Category
Antique Mid-19th Century French Georgian Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Silver
- Certified Untreated Natural Jadite Jade and 18Ct Diamond Brooch 18K White GoldLocated in KOWLOON, HKElevate your accessory game with this one-of-a-kind white gold brooch featuring two pieces of Certified natural A grade Jade (Fei sui) in an intense green color and unique huaigu sha...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Hong Kong Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, White Diamond, Jade, 18k Gold, White Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
You Saw It at the Met Ball. Here’s What Camp Fashion Is Really About
This year's Costume Institute exhibition is all about embracing the eccentric.
The Met’s Latest Blockbuster Tells a Powerful Story through 230 Jewels
A captivating show at the Manhattan museum explores how jewelry has ornamented the body through the millennia — and redefines it as high art.