Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. 'Maltese Cross' Gold and Diamond Clip
View Similar Items
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. 'Maltese Cross' Gold and Diamond Clip
About the Item
- Creator:
- Design:Maltese Cross ClipSchlumberger Collection
- Metal:18k Gold,Yellow Gold,Gold
- Stone:Diamond
- Stone Cut:Round Cut
- Weight:25.4 g
- Dimensions:Width: 2 in (50.8 mm)Length: 2 in (50.8 mm)
- Period:2010-
- Date of Manufacture:21st Century
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: BR78257AA1stDibs: LU1740114732672
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- Charles Krypell Ruby and Diamond PendantBy Charles KrypellLocated in New York, NYAuthentic Charles Krypell free-form slide crafted in 18 karat yellow gold set with ruby baguettes and round brilliant cut diamonds (G/H, VS) weighing approximately 0.79 carats. The p...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Pendant Necklaces
- Cartier 'Juste Un Clou' White Gold and Diamond ring. Size 54By CartierLocated in New York, NYAuthentic Cartier Juste un Clou ring crafted in 18 karat white gold and set with approx. 0.40 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds (E-F color, VS clarity). Signed Cartier, 750, wit...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Band Rings
MaterialsDiamond, White Gold
- Cartier 'Love' Rose Gold 4-Diamond Bracelet. Size 17By CartierLocated in New York, NYAuthentic Cartier 'Love' bracelet crafted in 18 karat rose gold, set with four round brilliant cut diamonds weighing an estimated 0.42 carats total weight. Size 17. Signed Cartier, 7...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Contemporary Bangles
MaterialsDiamond, Rose Gold
- Antique Hardstone Intaglio Charm BraceletLocated in New York, NYAn antique charm bracelet comprising of six fancifully designed seals, each set with an intaglio engraving carved into various stones such as carnelian and quartz. The seals hang fro...Category
Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Charm Bracelets
- Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Diamond Yellow Gold Platinum Pin BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Platinum Diamond Brooch Pin by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. With 21 round brilliant cut diamonds VS1 clarity, G colo...Category
Vintage 1980s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Diamond Floral BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDJean Schlumberger was vice president of Tiffany and one of their premier designers. Among those who collected his work were Bunny Mellon; Babe Paley and Diana Vreeland. His pieces co...Category
Vintage 1970s American Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Diamond Turquoise Yellow Gold Platinum Pin BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Platinum Diamond And Turquoise Brooch Pin by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. With 78 round brilliant cut diamonds VS1 clarity, G color total weight approximately ...Category
1990s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Turquoise, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co. Peridot and Ruby Thistle BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Boston, MAThis late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut green peridots, and red rubys set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measures ...Category
Mid-20th Century American Brooches
MaterialsPeridot, Ruby, Yellow Gold
- Antique Diamond Maltese Cross Brooch Pendant C. 1850Located in Chicago, ILCirca 1850 This very fine antique Maltese cross is crafted in silver topped 14K gold (front – silver, back – gold). The cross is embellished wit...Category
Antique Mid-19th Century Victorian Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 14k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Diamond Platinum Gold Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NY18k gold and platinum brooch, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, adorned with approx. 1.20ctw in diamonds. Brooch is 44mm x 45mm. Marked: Tiffany & Co, Schlumberger, 750, pt950. ...Category
20th Century French Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.