JEAN SCHLUMBERGER For Tiffany & Co. Thistle Brooch
View Similar Items
JEAN SCHLUMBERGER For Tiffany & Co. Thistle Brooch
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:18k Gold
- Stone:Diamond,Ruby
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:Late 20th Century
- Date of Manufacture:1990
- Condition:Excellent.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: JU11062094321
Jean Schlumberger
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry today.
- Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger Croisillon Gold and Red Enamel Bangle BraceletBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Chicago, ILCirca 1990 Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Croisillon collection 18k Yellow Gold hinged Bracelet, finished in the more Desirable Red Guilloche Enamel with applied X decorations, ...Category
1990s French Bangles
MaterialsGold, 18k Gold, Enamel
- Tiffany & Co. Retro Gold Moonstone and Sapphire BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Chicago, ILCirca 1940 Tiffany & Company 14K Rose and Green Gold flowers form Brooch in a very Retro Period style, measuring 2 3/8 inches in length and 2 inches wide. Set with very fine color Mo...Category
Vintage 1940s American Retro Brooches
MaterialsMoonstone, Sapphire, 14k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Man in the Moon Gold and Inlay BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Chicago, ILCirca 1980s Tiffany & Company "Man in the Moon" Brooch, 18K Yellow gold and inlayed with Mother of Pearl and Onyx for the eye. Measuring 1 3/4 inch in length and 1 inch wide.Category
Vintage 1980s Hong Kong Brooches
MaterialsOnyx, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Whimsical Yellow Gold Enamel and Gem Set Monkey BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Chicago, ILCirca 1970s Very Whimsical 18K Yellow Gold Monkey Brooch, measuring 2 1/4 inches in length X 1 3/8 inch wide. This detailed piece is completely fini...Category
Vintage 1970s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Rare and Iconic Gold and Coral Large Sea Urchin BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Chicago, ILCirca 1960s Tiffany & Company Sea Urchin Brooch, Measuring 2 1/8 inches in Diameter and 1 inch in height. Comprised of 18K Yellow Gold pointed Spines and Carved Coral Pointed Spines....Category
Vintage 1960s Italian Brooches
MaterialsCoral, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 16 Diamond Iconic X Band RingBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Chicago, ILCirca 2005 Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Company Platinum X Band Ring, measuring 6 MM wide and set with 16 Round Brilliant cut Diamonds totaling 1.16 carats. Finger size = 6 1/2. E...Category
Early 2000s American Band Rings
MaterialsDiamond, Platinum
- Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co. Peridot and Ruby Thistle BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Boston, MAThis late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut green peridots, and red rubys set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measures ...Category
Mid-20th Century American Brooches
MaterialsPeridot, Ruby, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany Schlumberger Thistle Brooch SapphiresBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in North Hollywood, CAI am so happy to offer this magnificent Tiffany Schulmberger Thistle piece to all of you. As you may know I source anything I desire and this was 1 year in the making to source and ...Category
Early 2000s French Artisan Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, Sapphire, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. " J. Schlumberger " BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany Schlumberger diamond and emeradl bird on a branch brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The bird is made in platinum, body fully encrusted with round brilliant cut diamonds...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Artist Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- Schlumberger Tiffany Co. Sapphire, Emerald and Yellow Gold Thistle BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Boston, MAThis late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut blue sapphire, and green emeralds set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measu...Category
Mid-20th Century American Brooches
MaterialsEmerald, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Gold
- Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Diamond Floral BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDJean Schlumberger was vice president of Tiffany and one of their premier designers. Among those who collected his work were Bunny Mellon; Babe Paley and Diana Vreeland. His pieces co...Category
Vintage 1970s American Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Tiffany Schlumberger Thistle Clip Brooch Peridot Ruby Yellow GoldBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Los Angeles, CATiffany Schlumberger peridot and ruby gold thistle clip brooch circa 1960. * ABOUT THIS ITEM: #P-DJ125G. Scroll down for detailed specification...Category
Vintage 1960s Modern Brooches
MaterialsPeridot, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Jean Schlumberger Is Now Beloved by Rappers, Movie Stars and Style Setters Galore
The late jewelry designer's work, including his famous creations for Tiffany & Co., resonate with a new generation.