Schlumberger for Tiffany Ruby Set Starfish Gold Brooch
View Similar Items
Schlumberger for Tiffany Ruby Set Starfish Gold Brooch
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:18k Gold
- Stone:Ruby
- Weight:18.7 g
- Dimensions:Diameter: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:1960-1969
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1960s
- Condition:
- Seller Location:Litchfield, CT
- Reference Number:Seller: 187331stDibs: LU2301788283
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Cufflinks and Stud SetBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Litchfield, CTCirca 1980s, 18k, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., New York. Crisp style, cool vibe, Schlumberger pieces never sleep. They are always in fashion. Long associated with high lu...Category
Vintage 1980s American Cufflinks
MaterialsLapis Lazuli, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Mikimoto Sixties Mod Pearl-Set Gold BroochBy MikimotoLocated in Litchfield, CTCirca 1960s, 14k, by Mikimoto, Japan. A sublime example of Mikimoto jewelry, this elegant Sixties pop art brooch is set with perfectly matched Akoya pe...Category
Vintage 1960s Japanese Brooches
MaterialsPearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Magnificent Pearl and Diamond Set Gold Flower BroochLocated in Litchfield, CTCirca 1960s, 18k, French. This stunning jeweled flower is exquisite! Its compelling look is the result of sublime design work underscored by meticulous fabrication. The nuanced yello...Category
Vintage 1960s French Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Pearl, White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. "Rope Four Row with Diamonds" RingBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Litchfield, CTCirca 1970s, 18k and Platinum, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., New York. Long associated with high luxury and classic fashion, Tiffany's Schlumberger collection is exquisite...Category
Vintage 1970s American Band Rings
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. "Rope Four Row with Diamonds" RingBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Litchfield, CTCirca 1970s, 18k and Platinum, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., New York. Long associated with high luxury and classic fashion, Tiffany's Schlumberger collection is exquisite...Category
Vintage 1970s American Band Rings
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Art Deco Diamond and Ruby Double Clip BroochLocated in Litchfield, CTCirca 1920s, Platinum, American. This chic Art Deco double clip brooch transforms from its grand arrangement as a pin into a pair of char...Category
Vintage 1920s Art Deco Brooches
MaterialsPlatinum
- Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Gold Ruby Hedgehog Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYAdorable 18k yellow gold hedgehog brooch , designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Set with tiny ruby eyes. The brooch measures 1.25" x 7/8". Hallmarked on the back : Tiffany...Category
20th Century French Brooches
MaterialsRuby, Gold
- Tiffany Schlumberger Thistle Clip Brooch Peridot Ruby Yellow GoldBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Los Angeles, CATiffany Schlumberger peridot and ruby gold thistle clip brooch circa 1960. * ABOUT THIS ITEM: #P-DJ125G. Scroll down for detailed specification...Category
Vintage 1960s Modern Brooches
MaterialsPeridot, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co. " J. Schlumberger " BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany Schlumberger diamond and emeradl bird on a branch brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The bird is made in platinum, body fully encrusted with round brilliant cut diamonds...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Artist Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Diamond Floral BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDJean Schlumberger was vice president of Tiffany and one of their premier designers. Among those who collected his work were Bunny Mellon; Babe Paley and Diana Vreeland. His pieces co...Category
Vintage 1970s American Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co. Peridot and Ruby Thistle BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Boston, MAThis late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut green peridots, and red rubys set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measures ...Category
Mid-20th Century American Brooches
MaterialsPeridot, Ruby, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany Schlumberger Thistle Brooch SapphiresBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in North Hollywood, CAI am so happy to offer this magnificent Tiffany Schulmberger Thistle piece to all of you. As you may know I source anything I desire and this was 1 year in the making to source and ...Category
Early 2000s French Artisan Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.