Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Pearl Gold Twisted Rope Heart Brooch
View Similar Items
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Pearl Gold Twisted Rope Heart Brooch
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:18k Gold
- Stone:Pearl
- Weight:31 g
- Dimensions:Height: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)Width: 1.44 in (36.58 mm)
- Place of Origin:United States
- Period:1970-1979
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1970
- Condition:
- Seller Location:Darnestown, MD
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU1331597563
Jean Schlumberger
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry today.
- Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany Diamond Floral BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDJean Schlumberger was vice president of Tiffany and one of their premier designers. Among those who collected his work were Bunny Mellon; Babe Paley and Diana Vreeland. His pieces co...Category
Vintage 1970s American Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Gold, Platinum and Diamond Ginko BroochBy Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDGold and platinum ginko brooch designed by Angela Cummings for Tiffany. The gold is beautifully sculpted to give the effect of a true leaf. The stem is made of diamonds set in plati...Category
Vintage 1970s American Modern Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Retro Brooch with Rubies and DiamondsBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDThis scrolling gold, diamond and ruby brooch by Tiffany is the epitome of Retro design. Two draped lengthwise loops of gold give the appearance of fabric. Scrolling across the front ...Category
Vintage 1940s French Retro Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Ruby, 14k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Retro Brooch with Rubies and DiamondsBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Darnestown, MDThis scrolling gold, diamond and ruby brooch by Tiffany is the epitome of Retro design. Two draped lengthwise loops of gold give the appearance of fabric. Scrolling across the front ...Category
Vintage 1940s French Retro Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Ruby, 14k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Enamel and Diamond Shell EarringsBy Jean SchlumbergerLocated in Darnestown, MDThe addition of diamonds makes these Schlumberger enamel shell shaped earrings dressier than usual. Measurements are 13/16" long and 3/4" wide. Backs are posts and clips. Excellent c...Category
Vintage 1970s American Lever-Back Earrings
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold
- Retro Pearl Diamond Gold Fanned Spokes BroochLocated in Darnestown, MDDifferent size spokes are fanned on several levels to make this Retro brooch especially graceful. It is centered with a 5.8 mm cultured pearl that is surrounded with 6 diamonds. ...Category
Vintage 1940s American Retro Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Cultured Pearl, 14k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger 18k Gold Turquoise Twisted Rope Heart Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Montclair, NJ--Stone(s):-- (4) Natural Genuine Turquoise - Round Cabochon Cut - Prong Set - Blue Turquoise Color - 6.4mm each (approx.) Material: Solid 18k Yellow Gold Total Weight: 31.11 Grams...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsTurquoise, 18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. " J. Schlumberger " BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany Schlumberger diamond and emeradl bird on a branch brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The bird is made in platinum, body fully encrusted with round brilliant cut diamonds...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Artist Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- 18k Yellow Gold Tiffany & Co Rope Knot Twist BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Montreal, QCTiffany & Co. 18k yellow gold rope knot twist brooch. Signed on the back, measures 18.5 mm tall x 26mm long. Preowned, in good condition, made in Italy du...Category
Late 20th Century Italian Brooches
Materials18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Pearl Ruby Diamond Gold Domed Heart BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Stamford, CT1950's Authentic Tiffany + Co, Ruby, diamond and Akoya pearls set in 18k yellow gold, Italian made domed heart shaped brooch. 1 round diamond approx...Category
Mid-20th Century Unknown Brooches
MaterialsPearl, Diamond, Natural Pearl, Ruby, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Diamond Platinum Gold Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NY18k gold and platinum brooch, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, adorned with approx. 1.20ctw in diamonds. Brooch is 44mm x 45mm. Marked: Tiffany & Co, Schlumberger, 750, pt950. ...Category
20th Century French Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Gold
- Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Gold Ruby Hedgehog Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYAdorable 18k yellow gold hedgehog brooch , designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Set with tiny ruby eyes. The brooch measures 1.25" x 7/8". Hallmarked on the back : Tiffany...Category
20th Century French Brooches
MaterialsRuby, Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Jean Schlumberger Is Now Beloved by Rappers, Movie Stars and Style Setters Galore
The late jewelry designer's work, including his famous creations for Tiffany & Co., resonate with a new generation.