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David Webb Jade Diamond Ruby Ear Clips

About the Item

Jade has been regarded historically by the Chinese as the “stone of heaven,” prized above diamonds, and considered to be a metaphor for longevity, wisdom, and purity. The Mandarin character for jade, or you, has two meanings: “imperial” and “heaven” - symbolizing the link between heaven and earth. These David Webb Ancient World Vintage Carved Jade Button Earrings have the quality of significant artifacts yet, at the same time, are imbued with his dazzling colorful style and updated Art Deco glamour. The domed clip-back earrings, perhaps dating to the 20th century, circa the 1980s, are symmetrical in composition, crafted in 18K yellow gold and platinum, and set with 16 cabochon red rubies and 16 round brilliant cut diamonds which encircle a pair of rich Chinese jade carvings as twin focal points. Webb signs the earrings with marks for gold and platinum. American jewelry designer David Webb (1925-1975) was famous for delving into the art and artifacts of ancient cultures and refashioning motifs that caught his eye with great flourish. Webb had a particular passion for antiquities and a thirst for knowledge, even considering a career in archaeology. He visited the Metropolitan Museum of Art weekly, spending hours gazing at jewelry made by the ancient Egyptian, Chinese, and pre-Columbian civilizations. Every piece of jewelry produced today is based on a rich and diverse archive he left behind of his studies, including more than 40,000 original drawings and sketches. His Ancient World collection is one of eighteen active today and is inspired by nearly every ancient culture from around the world, reimagined as modern jewels. Due to its strength, jade can be carved into the most intricate and exquisite designs. Detailed depictions in Chinese art include landscapes, dragons, herds of horses, and jewelry, including rings, earrings, and necklaces. Chinese art is known to have a rich vocabulary of encoded motifs. These motifs are often of nature or animals—mythical, wild, or domestic—and are almost always auspicious. The jade in this highly sculptural pair is carved with two Chinese motifs, specifically, stylized domes reminiscent of auspicious tortoise shells floating in the clouds. While the earrings are round, placing eight cabochon rubies—four within the perimeter and four without—suggests an octagon. The border is further adorned by an open scroll in 18K yellow gold simplified from the Chinese tao-tie, a mythical animal that some argue can be traced back to jade pieces found at Neolithic sites. The four geometric scrolls are accented with four pairs of diamonds. In Taoist philosophy, the tortoise symbolizes the universe. Its domed shell represents the heavens, and its flat underside, the earth. In Chinese culture, it is believed that blessings will come true by wearing these auspicious symbols or having them in one’s home. Each measure approx. 1.25” in diameter. Overall weight approx. 70.30 grams, made in platinum and 18k yellow gold. Signed Webb; circa the 1980s.
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