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Jean Schlumberger 18K Gold, Diamond and Coral unusual Earrings, circa 1960.

$7,900

About

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. 18K, diamond and deep red coral earrings. These vintage earrings are an unusual design, with wonderful stones, by an important American designer, and should not to be confused with mass produced jewelry made in factories! The coral is 12 mm., a deep even color with no variation in the color and no white spots. In the center of the coral bead is a prong set fine white diamond, near colorless, approximately H, and very slightly included, VS. These sunburst motif earrings measure in diameter 24 mm., and they are in excellent condition, signed on the verso Jean Schlumberger and Tiffany & Co.

Details

Shipping & Returns

  • Shipping
    $75 Express Parcel Shipping
    to United States 0, arrives in 3 days, excluding production time.
    We recommend this shipping type based on item size, type and fragility.
    Ships From: Aspen, CO
  • Return Policy

    A return for this item may be initiated within 7 days of delivery.

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About the Designer

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger (1907–87) once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.

A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.

One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.

After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.

From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.

On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.

About the Seller
4.9 / 5
Located in Aspen, CO
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Established in 1979
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543 sales on 1stDibs
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