Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Carved Emerald Diamond Gold Set
View Similar Items
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Carved Emerald Diamond Gold Set
About the Item
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- Carved Taveez Emerald and Diamond NecklaceLocated in New York, NYCarved Taveez Emerald and Diamond Necklace 34 Emeralds approximately 58.35 carats 42 Baguette Cut Diamonds and 224 Round Cut Diamonds approximately 6.02 carats Measurements: 16" long Gold Type: 18k White Gold Taveez emerald reference from Christies: History sometimes makes inextricable links between places and gemstones, as India shows. Although the Spanish controlled the great emerald mines of Colombia throughout the apogee of their production from the 16th to the 18th century, most of the output was exported to India to be used for jewels commissioned by the Royal families. When these stones appeared in western markets in the early 20th century, they became known as ‘Old Indian Material’. The ‘Indian’ character of this emerald is accentuated by its traditional taviz-cut, a flat hexagonal tablet form, often seen in Mughal jewels...Category
Vintage 1980s Unknown Drop Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, White Gold
- Men's Carved Emerald & Diamond Link NecklaceLocated in New York, NYCarved Emerald & Diamond Link Necklace 1 carved center emerald surrounded by 119 round pave diamonds 18k yellow gold chain Diamond Weight: approximately 10.98 cts Measurements:...Category
Vintage 1980s Link Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, 18k Gold
- Art Deco Carved Emerald and Diamond NecklaceLocated in New York, NYArt Deco Carved Mughal Style Emerald and Diamond Necklace Measurements: Chain: 18" long, Pendant: 2.5" long Metal Type: PlatinumCategory
Vintage 1920s Unknown Art Deco Pendant Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, Platinum
- David Webb Carved Emerald NecklaceBy David WebbLocated in New York, NYDavid Webb Carved Emerald Gold Link Necklace A carved emerald set with round diamonds in a gold link chain. Emerald measuring approximately...Category
Vintage 1980s American Chain Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Platinum
- Tiffany & Co Diamond & Gold Leaf BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany & Co Diamond & Gold Floral motif Brooch 9 graduated round cut diamonds approximately set in 14k yellow gold. Measurements: 2.75" long Signed TiffanyCategory
Vintage 1970s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 14k Gold
- Tiffany & Co Jade & Diamond Gold BraceletBy Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany & Co Jade & diamond Gold Bracelet. A bracelet consisting of 6 jade discs with 6 diamond & gold flower motifs on top of each jade. Each jade is attached to a geometric design...Category
Vintage 1960s Link Bracelets
MaterialsDiamond, Jade, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co. "Schlumberger" Bowtie Choker NecklaceBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany & Co. Schlumberger "Bowtie" choker necklace in 18k yellow gold. Circa: 1980's. The necklace consists of vertically placed bowtie links, separated by smaller gold beads at the top part of the necklace and larger gold beads at the bottom. Equipped with slide box...Category
Late 20th Century French Artist Choker Necklaces
Materials18k Gold
- Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. X's & O's Necklace Bracelet CombinationBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Bethesda, MDFrom Tiffany & Co.'s Jean Schlumberger, his X's & O's necklace and bracelet combination. The 18 inch necklace separates into two 7 ¼ bracelets and a remaining section. ♦ Designer:...Category
Vintage 1980s American Chain Necklaces
Materials18k Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger Sixteen Diamond Circle Pendant NecklaceBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Banbury, GBSKU AT-2354 Comes With Box Only Metal 18k Yellow Gold, Platinum Stones Diamond Length 42 cm Condition Excellent Other Info Diamond Diameter :2cm __________________________________ I...Category
2010s American Drop Necklaces
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Circle Rope Long Link Yellow Gold NecklaceBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Circle Rope Link 23" Long Chain Necklace by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. This necklace is 23" long, it has 18" long necklace plus additional 5" add on made by...Category
Early 2000s North American Link Necklaces
MaterialsYellow Gold
- Schlumberger Tiffany & Co. Emerald 18 Karat Gold Twisted Rope Vintage NecklaceBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Philadelphia, PADesigned as entwined large and small twisted rope motif link chain With a high polish gold finish and terminating with toggle clasp Featuring 4.0 mm round emerald cabochons - bezel s...Category
Vintage 1960s Rope Necklaces
MaterialsEmerald, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co. Jean Schlumberger Circle Rope Link Necklace 18" - Yellow Gold 18kBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Greensboro, NCBrand: Tiffany & Co. Designer: Jean Schlumberger Design: Circle Rope Metal Content: 18k Yellow Gold Style: Link Fastening Type: Locking Snap Clasp Features: Smooth & rope-texture...Category
20th Century Link Necklaces
Materials18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.