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ArtDeco 491 ProngSetCrystals SchreinerStyle SilverSolder 35" Belt ChokerNecklace
$1,090
£828.70
€956.35
CA$1,525.71
A$1,708.39
CHF 891.35
MX$20,815.42
NOK 11,310.60
SEK 10,753.37
DKK 7,138.53
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About the Item
With settings and construction like Art-Deco-period unsigned crystal costume-jewelry by Bavarian-born blacksmith Henry Schreiner (1898-1954), this mid-century unsigned silver-soldered three-strand 35-inch-long piece with a prong-less buckle features 491 sparkling faceted foiled rhinestones. Each are expertly prong set for a brilliant choker necklace with an end draping as long as 20 inches, or for a versatile belt that can be adjusted to suit a high to low waist.
More so, there are five decorative rectangular gaps in the middle of the colorfully-reflective strands near the end of the belt in which to insert the wide C-hook behind the buckle, which will accommodate a hip measurement of 29 to 32 inches. We posted a blurry photo of only the hip-positioned belt because it helps to show the rainbow-range of colors.
Significantly, buckles and buttons were among the first crystal-adorned fashion items that Henry Schreiner handcrafted when he founded his American wholesale company in New York City in 1932. While it is likely that belts were among the multitude of costume jewelry that he anonymously created for leading mid-century fashion designers, ranging from ready-to-wear entrepreneur Norman Norell to couturier Christian Dior, the family business Schreiner New York that continued to operate after its founder's death at least made a considerable number of unsigned metal stretch-belts with faux-gem embellished buckles, according to notes about this convertible type of jewelry written to curious collectors by his late daughter Terry. But unlike our buckle, the described Schreiner buckle has a bail that can be converted into the dangling pendant of a necklace.
Regardless of the talented person who handcrafted this belt/choker on par with documented mid-century couture ones by Gabriel "Coco" Chanel or Elsa Schiaparelli, its inspiration dates back to at least 1935 when internationally famous Fulco di Verdura created a buckled choker featuring aquamarines and rubies that was among his first pieces of jewelry as head designer for Hollywood-based jeweler Paul Flato, which was a commission by composer Cole Porter for his wife. Prior to this in Victorian times, Edwardian jewelry that Henry Schreiner would have been familiar with since childhood introduced diamond-encrusted belt buckles that could otherwise be worn with a ribbon as a choker.
For optimum brilliance and a conforming curvaceous fit, the half-inch-wide sections of crystals on our piece alternate between tightly fused 0.75-inch-long rectangles and longer free-hanging finely-linked strands. This will enable the end to also be looped around the back below the buckle to resemble the "knot" in the Verdura-Flato belt necklace.
A close examination with a loupe of the stones reveal minute loss of color on some that is not apparent to the eye. Otherwise the structure of this piece that links all the crystals is in excellent condition without any loss of stones. As the silver-soldered back of the buckle is reflective, please notice in our photo of it that the pink tone is the reflection of the photographer's skin.
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:124 g
- Dimensions:Width: 0.5 in (12.7 mm)Depth: 0.25 in (6.35 mm)Length: 35 in (889 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1935-1975
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244222073712
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