Amedeo Skull
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Modern Pendant Necklaces
Black Diamond, Silver
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21st Century and Contemporary Unknown Contemporary Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold
Antique 17th Century Medieval Band Rings
Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary George III Band Rings
Gold, Enamel
Antique Mid-19th Century Unknown Gothic Revival Fashion Rings
Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
21st Century and Contemporary British Contemporary Fashion Rings
Diamond, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique 1760s Band Rings
Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Engagement Rings
Gold, Enamel
Antique 16th Century Medieval Pendant Necklaces
Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gilt Metal
2010s English Artisan Fashion Rings
Sterling Silver, Enamel
2010s British Contemporary Barware
Silver, Sterling Silver
20th Century Signet Rings
Gold, Enamel
Early 2000s English Modern Charm Bracelets
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Early 2000s Italian Belle Époque Cocktail Rings
Sterling Silver
20th Century Unknown Contemporary Dome Rings
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, Enamel
Antique 17th Century British Tudor Engagement Rings
Yellow Gold
Antique 1730s Unknown Band Rings
Yellow Gold
Recent Sales
2010s Italian Modern Fashion Rings
Sterling Silver
2010s Italian Modern Pendant Necklaces
Diamond, Black Diamond, Sterling Silver
2010s Italian Modern Link Bracelets
Diamond, Black Diamond, Rhodium, Sterling Silver
Antique Early 1900s Scientific Instruments
Plaster
A Close Look at modern Jewelry
Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.
Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”
A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.
Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.
Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.