Vintage 1970s Verdura Chalcedony and Amethyst Brooch
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Cabochon Amethysts measuring 12 x 8 mm each. Signed by Verdura Circa 1970s 2 3/8 x 2 1/8 inch
Vintage 1970s Brooches
Amethyst, Chalcedony, 18k Gold
Vintage 1970s Verdura Chalcedony and Amethyst Brooch
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Cabochon Amethysts measuring 12 x 8 mm each. Signed by Verdura Circa 1970s 2 3/8 x 2 1/8 inch
Amethyst, Chalcedony, 18k Gold
Verdura 18k Yellow Gold Amethyst Peridot Byzantine Pendant Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura Byzantine pendant earrings, featuring a top section bezel-set with a square faceted peridot
Amethyst, Peridot, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$9,750
W 0.83 in L 1.18 in
Verdura Milan 18Kt Yellow Gold Earrings with 11.8 Cts of Vivid Purple Amethyst
By Verdura
Located in Miami, FL
A pair of earrings designed by Verdura. Beautiful and colorful pieces crafted by the house of
Amethyst, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
VERDURA Green Jade and Gem-set 'Maltese' Cuff Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in West Hollywood, CA
, set with cabochon amethyst, ruby, and bezel-set citrine, accented by cultured pearls This bracelet is
Amethyst, Citrine, Jade, Cultured Pearl, Ruby
$150,000
W 2.17 in D 0.99 in L 1.97 in
Couture Chanel Verdura 1930s Byzantine GoldCircleRope Gems PurpleHeart Medallion
By Chanel
Located in Chicago, IL
the same style. See our attached photo of a similar Verdura gold-and-amethyst cluster-brooch painting
Amethyst, Pearl, Quartz, Gold, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Unavailable
Verdura Amethyst Gold Cornucopia Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Lambertville, NJ
Pair of 18k gold Verdura Cornucopia earrings with amethyst. Come with box. Earrings are 30mm x 28mm
Amethyst, Gold
Verdura Jade Colored Stone Gold Earclips
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
gold rope and set at the terminals with cabochon rubies and cabochon amethysts, sturdy clip backs and
Amethyst, Jade, Ruby, 18k Gold
Verdura Maltese Cross Diamond Amethyst Peridot Pearl Gold Bracelet
Located in Lambertville, NJ
Iconic Maltese Cross wide cuff bracelet by Verdura in 18k gold , set with peridots, pearls
Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 18k Gold
Verdura Amethyst Gold Horn Earrings
By Verdura
Located in New York City, NY
Chic amethyst and 18K yellow gold earrings from the "horn" collection by Verdura. Features approx
Amethyst, 18k Gold
Verdura Amethyst Aquamarine Gold Necklace
By Verdura
Located in New Orleans, LA
by Verdura. Beautifully hued oval and circular-cut amethysts of graduated size rest amongst
Amethyst, Aquamarine, 18k Gold
Verdura Turquoise Amethyst Gold Candy Ring
By Verdura
Located in New York City, NY
Vibrant amethyst, turquoise and 18K yellow gold ring from the "Candy" collection by Verdura. It
Amethyst, Turquoise, 18k Gold
Verdura Amethyst Bead Gold Strand Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Lovely necklace created by Verdura in 2011. Features twenty 20mm matte finish amethyst beads. The
Amethyst, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Amethyst Aquamarine Gold Cocktail Ring
By Verdura
Located in New Orleans, LA
A mesmerizing amethyst weighing approximately 45.77 carats is the star of this spectacular cocktail
Amethyst, Aquamarine, 18k Gold
Verdura Amethyst Peridot and Gold Ring
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
A fine ring by Verdura set with a cabochon amethyst, the split shank prongs accented by cabochon
Amethyst, Peridot, Gold, 18k Gold
Verdura 18k Gold Amethyst Diamond Paisley Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura amethyst and diamond 'Paisley' cluster earrings. Handmade in 18k yellow gold and white gold
Amethyst, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold
Verdura Large Amethyst Drop Yellow Gold Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Southampton, PA
18k Yellow Gold Large Amethyst Drop Earrings by Verdura. With 4 pear shape amethysts totaling
Amethyst, Yellow Gold
Verdura Amethyst Bead Rock Candy Long Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura "Rock Candy" bead long necklace, featuring a series of three free-form faceted amethyst
Amethyst, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Estate Verdura Amethyst and Diamond Eternity Ring
By Verdura
Located in San Francisco, CA
Verdura 18k gold band ring, with 6 horizontally-set oval-shaped deep purple ameythsts alternating
Amethyst, Diamond, 18k Gold
Verdura 18kt Gold Amethyst Peridot 'Byzantine' Pendant Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Estate Verdura 'Byzantine' pendant earrings, featuring a top section each set with hexagonal
Amethyst, Peridot, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Verdura Vintage Amethyst Garnet Pearl Diamond 'Torsade' Bead Necklace
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
The history of the Verdura Jewelry House dates back to the 1920s when Fulco di Verdura, an Italian
Amethyst, Garnet, Pearl, Diamond, 14k Gold, 18k Gold
VERDURA Caged Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Yellow Gold With 25 Purples Amethysts
By Verdura
Located in Miami, FL
Caged cocktail ring designed by Verdura. This is a very rare and bold "Caged" cocktail ring
Amethyst, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Sold
W 0.83 in L 0.83 in
Verdura Milano Clips Earrings in 18Kt Gold with 17.14 Cts in Diamonds & Amethyst
By Verdura
Located in Miami, FL
Three stones clips earrings designed by Verdura. Colorful earclips crafted in Milan Italy by the
Amethyst, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura 1990's Amethyst Peridot 18 Karat Yellow Gold Vintage Three Stone Ring
By Verdura
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Centering a modified cushion cut amethyst weighing approximately 4.15 carats - transparent medium
Amethyst, Peridot, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Maltese Cross Cuff Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold and black enamel with an Amethyst, Peridots, and Diamonds. Signed
Amethyst, Diamond, Peridot, 18k Gold
Verdura Byzantine Pendant Brooch Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura "Byzantine" cross convertible pendant brooch in 18k yellow gold, centering a larger
Amethyst, Citrine, Emerald, Peridot, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Tourmaline, Ru...
Verdura Black Jade Maltese Cross Cuff
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in Verdura Black Jade Maltese Cross Cuff and 18k gold featuring an Amethyst
Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, Black Jade, 18k Gold
Verdura Multicolored Gemstone Theodora Cuff Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
amethyst, the three larger gemstones surrounded by smaller gemstones in a wide variety of shapes, including
Amethyst, Emerald, Peridot, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, Gold, 18...
Verdura Green Jade Maltese Cross Cuff Bracelets
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
the center surrounded by pear-shaped cabochon amethysts, round-cut citrines and cultured pearls
Amethyst, Citrine, Jade, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
Verdura Byzantine Pendant Brooch with Chain Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura "Byzantine" pendant brooch in 18k yellow gold, centering a larger sugarloaf cabochon-cut
Amethyst, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow ...
Verdura 18k Yellow Gold Multicolored Gemstone Confetti Long Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura "Confetti" long necklace, featuring an oval-shaped link chain bezel-set with fifteen
Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, Peridot, Quartz, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Gem-Set Green Jade Maltese Cross Cuff Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
-cut amethysts, as well as twelve round-cut citrine and four cultured pearls. Signed "VERDURA" "750
Amethyst, Diamond, Jade, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura 18kt Yellow Gold Gemstone South Sea Pearl Fulco "Y" Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Verdura's classic Fulco "Y" necklace in 18k yellow gold, spinel, South Sea cultured pearl, amethyst
Amethyst, Aquamarine, Citrine, South Sea Pearl, Rubelite, Blue Topaz, 18...
Verdura Amethyst Bead Strand Necklace with Gold Clasp
By Verdura
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Lovely necklace created by Verdura in the 2000s. Features forty nine graduating amethyst beads. The
Amethyst, 18k Gold, Base Metal, Yellow Gold
Verdura 18k Yellow Gold Turquoise Amethyst Brooch, France
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
This Amethyst and Turquoise Brooch by Verdura Paris is a stunning piece of jewelry that exemplifies
Amethyst, Turquoise, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Carved Aventurine and Cabochon Amethyst Shell Ear Clips
By Verdura
Located in Weston, MA
Verdura’s classic spiral shells are rendered in translucent shades of green and purple in these
Amethyst, Aventurine
Verdura Amethyst Bead Strand Necklace with Yellow Gold Clasp
By Verdura
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Lovely necklace created by Verdura in the 2000s. Features fifty two graduating amethyst beads. The
Amethyst, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Gem-Set and Ceramic 'Fulco' Necklace
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Verdura Gold and Gem-set and Ceramic 'Fulco' Necklace This necklace is composed of a variety of
Amethyst, Aquamarine, Iolite, Peridot, Quartz, Rubelite, Tanzanite, 18k ...
Verdura 'Candy' Amethyst and Tourmaline Ring
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
: Verdura Collection: Candy Metal: 18K Yellow Gold Gemstones: Amethyst, Tourmaline Condition: Excellent Wear
Amethyst, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Amethyst & Ruby Earclips
By Verdura
Located in Greenwich, CT
Amethyst and ruby earclips, centering on a larger cabochon-cut circular amethyst, surrounded by two
Amethyst, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Caged Amethyst Gold Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Lambertville, NJ
Impressive 18k gold Cage earrings, set with fancy cut loose amethyst stones, set in a caged gold
Amethyst, 18k Gold
VERDURA 3-Strand Amethyst Bead Necklace
By Verdura
Located in Greenwich, CT
3-strand, polished amethyst bead necklace, with 18k yellow gold hook clasp, signed Verdura.
Amethyst, 18k Gold
Verdura Amethyst Peridot Three-Stone Ring
By Verdura
Located in Greenwich, CT
Cushion-cut amethyst and peridot three-stone ring in polished 18k yellow gold. Amethyst weighing
Amethyst, Peridot, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Amethyst Gold Ear Clips
By Verdura
Located in Phoenix, AZ
A fine pair Verdura ear clips. Signed yellow gold items features vibrant faceted cabochon amethyst
Sapphire, 18k Gold
Verdura Byzantine Amethyst Pink Tourmaline Drop Earrings
By Verdura
Located in Greenwich, CT
"Byzantine" fancy-cut lavender amethyst drop earrings, with circular-cut pink tourmaline accents at
Tourmaline, Amethyst, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Verdura Pink Tourmaline Amethyst Gold Cabana Earclips
By Verdura
Located in Greenwich, CT
oval cabochon-cut amethysts, mounted in 18k yellow gold, with clip backs, signed Verdura. 1" length and
Amethyst, Tourmaline, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Verdura Maltese Cross Black Jade Diamond Peridot Amethyst Gold Hinged Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in Lambertville, NJ
Iconic impressive Maltese Cross hinged bracelet by Verdura, set in 18k gold and black jade
Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, 18k Gold
Verdura Maltese Cross Cuff Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
A Verdura classic, the carved nephrite jade cuff set at the top with a polished yellow gold Maltese
Jade, Citrine, Ruby, Amethyst, Cultured Pearl, 18k Gold
Verdura Maltese Cross Charm Bracelet
By Verdura
Located in New York, NY
Maltese Cross charms in peridot, citrine, pink tourmaline, amethyst, blue topaz. Each stone is
Amethyst, Citrine, Peridot, Topaz, Tourmaline, 18k Gold
18k YellowGold Amethyst and Pink Tourmaline Ring
By Verdura
Located in Houston, TX
18k Yellow Gold, Lilac Amethyst and Pink Tourmaline Ring. Signed (Verdura,750)
Amethyst, Rubelite, 18k Gold
Verdura Maltese Cross Diamond Amethyst Peridot Pearl Gold Bracelet
Located in Lambertville, NJ
Iconic Maltese Cross wide cuff bracelet by Verdura in 18k gold , set with peridots, pearls
Amethyst, Diamond, Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 18k Gold
Verdura Amethyst and Peridot Three-Stone Ring
By Verdura
Located in Atlanta, GA
A Verdura classic. This is the larger of two sizes Verdura creates their classic three stone ring
Amethyst, Peridot, 18k Gold
1930s Verdura Art Deco Ruby Cabochon Amethyst Diamond Platinum Ring
By Verdura
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Verdura 1930’s vintage Art Deco platinum cocktail ring with ruby, diamond, and amethyst cabochon
Amethyst, Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Sold
W 2.34 in D 0.18 in L 2.37 in
Verdura 18Kt Gold Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire and Semi-Precious Stone Pendant Brooch
By Verdura
Located in Menlo Park, CA
, amethyst, garnet, citrine and peridot, mounted in 18k yellow gold. Designed by Verdura. • 18k gold
Amethyst, Citrine, Emerald, Garnet, Peridot, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Yellow...
Sold
W 2.34 in D 0.18 in L 2.37 in
Verdura 18kt Gold Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire and Semi-Precious Stone Pendant Brooch
By Verdura
Located in Menlo Park, CA
" pendant/brooch represents one of Verdura’s earliest and most influential designs. He also did these
Amethyst, Citrine, Emerald, Garnet, Peridot, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Yellow...
$138,000
Diamond Necklace Tiara
By Diamond Scene New York
Located in New York, NY
A MASTERPIECE! 46.75 carats of white pear, marquise and round brilliant cut diamonds set in 18k white gold. The piece can be worn as a necklace and easily converted into a tiara...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Cartier Byzantine Diamond, Ruby Emerald 18K Yellow Hoop Earrings
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
Cartier Byzantine Diamond, Ruby & Emerald 18K Yellow Gold Hoop Earrings — 1990s These exquisite 1990s Cartier Byzantine hoop earrings are crafted in luxurious 18K yellow gold an...
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold
Oval Sapphires South Sea Pearls Dangle Drop Earrings 3 Carats 18K White Gold
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
18K White gold drop earrings featuring 6 oval Sapphires weighing 3.00 carats and two South Sea Pearls measuring 11-12 mm.
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, South Sea Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
$275
Size: Fits IT 40, US 4 see measurement
Dolce & Gabbana Lime Green Flared Pencil Skirt with Yellow Lace Accents
By Dolce & Gabbana
Located in San Francisco, CA
Dolce and Gabbana lime green fit and flare pencil skirt with yellow lace godet panels at bottom. Vertical seam detail at one side. Back zip and hook and eye. 100% viscose (linen-loo...
$500
Size: vintage 12; comparable to size M
Dove Gray A-Line Shift Dress with Bead-Crusted Neckline and Pockets - M, 1960s
Located in Tucson, AZ
Perfect for brunch, weddings and cocktail parties, this heavyweight linen dress combines crisp geometry with masterful but discrete beading. Its Mod fingertip pockets and gentle A-li...
Hermes Kelly Depeches 38 Briefcase Electric Blue Palladium Hardware
By Hermès
Located in Miami, FL
Mightychic offers an Hermes coveted Kelly Depeches 38 briefcase. Very rare in Electric Blue. Epsom leather with Palladium hardware. Two large accordion compartments. Front wall ha...
Chanel Mint Blue Velvet Double Flap Bag
By Chanel
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Chanel excellent condition blue velvet double flap, blue leather lining and black hardware. Shoulder drop 9”/19”. Comes with hologram, ID card and original dust cover. Collection 2...
1950s MGM Mme. Etoile by Irene Sharaff Couture Ball Gown in Deep Teal Silk
By Irene Scharaff
Located in Gresham, OR
1950s MGM Mme. Etoile by Irene Sharaff couture ball gown in deep mauve and teal silk tulle and horsehair : Irene Sharaff, 5-time Academy Award Winner for costume design, made this go...
Jean Paul Gaultier Sweater with Belt 1990s
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous rust orange striped wool sweater from Jean Paul Gaultier. It has long sleeves, a standup collar with functional silver buttons closure along it's side and one shoulder and...
Jean Paul Gaultier black one shoulder gown with attached pouch
By Jean Paul Gaultier
Located in Austin, TX
Jean Paul Gaultier black one shoulder gown with attached pouch 100% rayon 31" bust, 26" waist, 25" hips, 66" length Condition: Excellent size S / US4 / IT40
1960s Helga Vintage Cocktail Dress
By Helga
Located in Sparks, NV
Absolutely stunning 1960s vintage silk satin cocktail dress by Helga. Metallic brocade paisley design over gray silk animal print. Nipped waist with bow detail. Stunning construction...
Dolce & Gabbana Lace up Silk Dress
By Dolce & Gabbana
Located in Water Mill, NY
A beautiful stretch silk leopard print dress from Dolce & Gabbana. The bodice has adjustable straps, functional and adjustable side lacing through to the hips plus rows of top stitch...
$760Sale Price|20% Off
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN white RIBBED & OPEN KNIT PEPLUM Dress S
By Alexander McQueen
Located in Zürich, CH
Alexander McQueen ribbed and open knit peplum dress in cream polyamide (43%), cotton (37%), viscose (11%), nylon (5%) and polyester (4%). Has short sleeves and a solid knit skirt. Ha...
$6,265
Size: FR 38 - UK 10 - IT 42
Alexander McQueen black lace ruffled blouse and pants ensemble, ss 1999
By Alexander McQueen
Located in London, GB
Alexander McQueen black lace ruffled blouse and flared pants ensemble. Spring-Summer 1999
$3,898
Size: UK 10 - IT 42 - US 6
Vivienne Westwood salmon pink silk peplum blazer jacket and skirt suit, ss 1994
By Vivienne Westwood
Located in London, GB
Vivienne Westwood salmon pink silk peplum blazer jacket and skirt suit with matching fabric belt Spring-Summer 1994
1990s Valentino Black Chiffon and Velvet Dress Shirt Dress
By Valentino
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Amazing 1990s Valentino little black shirt dress from Holt Renfrew Canada. Top is black chiffon with a pussy bow tie, sheer bishop sleeves and delicate ruching at shoulders. Jet blac...
Fulco di Verdura (1898–1978) is not exactly a household name, except for those who know a thing or two about highly original, often eccentric handcrafted earrings and bracelets, and, even more so, for those fortunate enough to own some. In that exclusive group, Verdura is regarded as the most gifted and coveted designer of his time.
Verdura was born in Sicily in 1898, the scion of a noble family related to the Lampedusas. (His cousin, Giuseppe di Lampedusa, wrote the great Italian saga The Leopard). His life was charmed from birth. Raised in his family’s villa, he grew up during a time when Sicily, and Palermo in particular, were meccas for well-born and highly cultured European travelers.
A bona fide duke with no clear ambitions but creative leanings aplenty (he could draw and paint), the young Verdura was part of the wandering social circuit — the so-called beau monde — that went from capital to capital, resort to resort.
Verdura, though small in stature, had that indefinable quality called charm. As a result, he was the life of every party he attended. When he finally started designing jewelry under Coco Chanel in the late 1920s, many of his friends became his clients (or received the pieces as gifts).
Elsa Maxwell took him under her ample wing when she was hired to do public relations for the Lido in Venice and introduced him to the local and visiting cognoscenti. Chanel, whom he met in Venice, hired him to work in the textiles division of her fashion house. But it was his flair for jewelry that soon caught Coco’s eye. Eventually, he rose to become her personal designer of fine jewelry.
In 2002’s Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler (Thames & Hudson), Vanity Fair’s Amy Fine Collins describes the sensation of wearing pieces by Verdura, who drew inspiration from nature for his signature gem-studded seashell brooches and honeybee earrings.
“They were ingeniously calculated to flatter the wearer,” writes Collins. “Earrings undulated to complement the convolutions of an earlobe, rings seductively followed the phalanges of a finger, and necklaces gracefully traced the anatomy of the throat.”
In 1934, Verdura left Chanel and together with two friends, aspiring actress Princess Natalia Pavlovna Paley and Baron Nicholas de Gunzburg, moved to the U.S. After several stops, he found a job through Diana Vreeland in Hollywood with Paul Flato, then the “jeweler to the stars.” Soon he was signing his work and helping Flato cultivate the crème de la creme of the silver screen — those both on it and behind it.
Verdura left Los Angeles for New York and opened his own salon, first on Fifth Avenue in 1939, just as World War II was beginning in Europe. His backers were Vincent Astor and Cole Porter, for whom he made bejeweled boxes and cigarette cases — gifts from Porter’s wife, Linda — to commemorate the opening nights of several musicals.
Verdura began to expand both his repertoire — he became much more daring and flamboyant — and his clientele. The Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, Greta Garbo and others routinely gave him commissions. In 1941, Verdura collaborated on a collection of six pieces with Salvador Dalí to accompany a Dalí exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art. Verdura retired in 1972 and left the care of the company to his partner, Joseph Alfano. He later moved to London, where he died in 1978 at the age of 79.
Among the most prized pieces on display in a 2014 Verdura jewelry exhibition in New York were Greta Garbo’s curb-link bracelet watch, which Verdura designed for her in 1939; Coco Chanel’s pair of Maltese Cross cuff bracelets (she wore one on each wrist); and Diana Vreeland’s duo of Byzantine brooches.
Find a range of vintage Verdura jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
There are few gemstones in the world that are both affordable and worthy of a duchess’s attention. But then not many stones are as beautiful as amethyst. Indeed, vintage and antique amethyst jewelry has innumerable fans, and February’s birthstone has many unique attributes. For the romantics, there are several tales in Greek mythology that tell the story of Bacchus and Amethyste, a maiden that he pursues yet is rescued by Diane by turning her into a white stone. Bacchus, mourning his love, pours a glass of wine over the sculpture, dyeing her purple.
Amethyst has adorned many royal jewels. One of the most enviable jewelry collections of all time belonged to Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor. In 1947, the Duke gifted her with a Cartier amethyst and turquoise bib necklace. This special order piece was made with twisted 18-carat and 20-carat gold, platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, one heart-shaped faceted amethyst, 27 emerald-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst, and turquoise cabochons. The Duchess was not the only Royal with a penchant for the purple gemstone. The tiara now owned by Queen Silvia of Sweden is set with amethysts that once belonged to the French Empress Josephine. A stunning 56-carat cushion-cut, square-shaped amethyst set in an 18-karat yellow gold necklace designed by Tiffany & Co. is now in the collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History.
The Smithsonian also has in its possession an even more rare example of fine amethyst: the 96-carat Morris Amethyst Brooch. The brooch features a deep, rich purple heart-shaped amethyst. The museum states that the piece was likely made during the Edwardian period (1901–15) “when platinum and diamonds were often used, and amethyst, a favorite stone of King Edward VII’s wife, Alexandra, was often included in jewelry of the era.”
Another amethyst necklace, with an even richer story, can be found in the Natural History Museum of London. Known as the Delhi Purple Sapphire (even though the stone is an amethyst), this stone was stolen from the Temple of Indra during the Indian Mutiny of 1857. Anyone in possession of this stone is bound to have terrible luck, including its owner Edward Heron-Allen, who gifted the gemstone to the museum thinking that this would save him but ended up transferring the bad luck to the museum curators overseeing the stone.
Find a wide range of vintage and antique amethyst necklaces, bracelets and other fine jewelry on 1stDibs.