Margiela Incognito

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.

Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988. 

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.

The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

A pair of vintage designer sunglasses can be a game-changing finishing touch to your ensemble.

No matter your age or general fashion sensibility, wearing sunglasses may already be part of your regular outdoor routine owing to their practicality. Most sunglasses protect the eyes from harmful UV (ultraviolet) rays — and not merely on sunny days. Glasses that utilize color-enhancing lenses, which feature specific coatings or filter tints, can limit the amount of light coming through, while polarized lenses substantially reduce glare.

So while their usefulness is well known, let’s face it, a good pair of sunglasses can be stylish too.

People have been making a statement with iconic eyewear for a while — sunglasses garnered popularity with the Hollywood set in the early 1900s, when it wasn’t uncommon for a hip actress to be photographed in a pair of her sharpest shades.

Today, we’re still talking about the sunglasses that Audrey Hepburn — the original trendsetter — donned in the opening scene of 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s. She emerges from the flagship store of the legendary luxury house referenced in the film’s title in a pair of glamorous dark tortoiseshell frames designed by London eyewear firm Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses. The brand was a keeper for Hepburn — in 1967, she famously wore a pair of Goldsmith’s Yuhu wraparound frames in the poster for Stanley Donen’s film Two for the Road.

Indeed, celebrities have long held sway in the sunglasses realm — perhaps you’ve opted for vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses because you’re enamored with Marilyn Monroe’s celebrated Wayfarers or you’ve taken to classic Aviators because actor Jon Hamm wore them in the nostalgic TV smash hit Mad Men. Good frames are a surefire way to take your style to the next level.

When shopping for the right pair of sunglasses, consider the color and shape of the frames (as well as the shape of your face), how dark or light the lenses are — or tint, if you’re leaning toward a chic gradient lens. Take your time, spring for more than one pair because different moods call for different shades and, while you’re at it, make sure you know how to spot a pair of fake Ray-Ban sunglasses before you make that purchase.

On 1stDibs, our collection of vintage designer sunglasses features classics from Gucci, Cartier, Chanel and other brands as well as a wide range that can be sorted by color — find sleek black sunglasses, brown pairs and a whole lot of other eye-catching options, whether it’s sunny outside or not.