1990s Hermes military influenced wool maxi coat
View Similar Items
1990s Hermes military influenced wool maxi coat
About the Item
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- Akris Bronze Gold Lamb Suede CoatLocated in West Palm Beach, FLAkris bronze gold lamb suede coat. Collarless coat with wing lapels, wide band at waist with two hidden snaps to close. The coat skirt is cut straight to the...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Swazi Coats
- Vintage Yeohlee Black Textured Double Face Wool Wrap Coat 1990sLocated in West Palm Beach, FLYeohlee black textured double face wool wrap coat from the 1990s. Unlined coat with an angled shape neckline, wrap coat with self belt. Long sleeves have horizontal stitching mid way...Category
1990s American Overcoats
- Adolfo Green Silk Textured Nylon Snakeskin Print Rain Coat 1980sBy AdolfoLocated in West Palm Beach, FLAdolfo green silk textured nylon snakeskin print print rain coat from the 1980s. Hidden button front placket closure coat, with narrow collar, shirred shoulder seams, peaked shoulder...Category
20th Century American Raincoats
$360 Sale Price20% Off - Adele Simpson 1960s Navy & White Wool Plaid Wrap CoatBy Adele SimpsonLocated in West Palm Beach, FLAdele Simpson 1960s navy blue & white wool plaid wrap coat. Stylish, well made coat that will get you complements where ever you go. The woven plaid design is perfectly matched throu...Category
1960s American Coats
$476 Sale Price20% Off - Norma Kamali OMO leopard print cocoon jacket 1980sBy Norma KamaliLocated in West Palm Beach, FLNorma Kamali OMO leopard print cocoon jacket from the 1980s. Unlined nylon/spandex jersey cocoon jacket closes at the front with a hook and eye. Drape...Category
1970s American Cocoon Coats
- Giorgio Armani Black Wool CoatBy Giorgio ArmaniLocated in West Palm Beach, FLGiorgio Armani black wool double breasted belted coat with deep collar and hit front top stitched patch pockets. This beautiful coat has a self belt, the coat can be worn without the...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Coats
- Christian Dior Golden Sable Fur CoatBy Christian DiorLocated in Amsterdam, NLRare Christian Dior Paris vintage coat with golden sable fur Collectors item We offer more exclusive fur items, view our frontstore. Details: Trimm...Category
20th Century French Coats and Outerwear
- 1930S Peach Silk Tie Front Bed Jacket With Embroidered Net Lace TrimLocated in New York, NY1930S Peach Silk Tie Front Bed Jacket With Embroidered Net Lace TrimCategory
1930s Car Coats
- 1980S EMANUEL UNGARO Style Blue Floral Silk Jacquard Long Sleeve DressLocated in New York, NY1980S EMANUEL UNGARO Style Blue Floral Silk Jacquard Long Sleeve DressCategory
1980s Car Coats
- S/2016 look # 2 NEW VERSACE RED SEMI LINE 100% SILK BLAZER 50 - 40By VersaceLocated in Montgomery, TXVERSACE Spring/Summer 2016 look # 2 Red silk blazer from Versace A graphic print and a two gold-tone Medusa front button fastening. Three front...Category
2010s Italian Coats and Outerwear
$2,246 Sale Price25% Off - Verheyen London Serena Collarless Faux Fur Coat in Blue - Size uk 12By Verheyen LondonLocated in London, GBVerheyen London Serena Collarless Faux Fur Coat in Black - Size uk 12 Handmade in London, made with the highest quality faux fur on the market - you wouldn't even know it was fake,...Category
2010s Coats
$682 Sale Price22% Off - Nina Ricci Grey Wool Knit Cocoon Coat, c.1970sBy Nina RicciLocated in New York, NYNina Ricci Grey Wool Knit Cocoon Coat, c.1970s 1970s Nina Ricci Grey Cocoon Coat featuring boat neckline collar and tapered Raglan sleeves. Three wooden button closure at center fron...Category
1970s French Cocoon Coats
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.
How to Spot a Fake Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted — and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. Of course, you don't have to worry about this on 1stDibs, where every seller is highly vetted.