1990s Hermes military influenced wool maxi coat
View Similar Items
1990s Hermes military influenced wool maxi coat
About the Item
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- Bergdorf Goodman Black Cashmere Over Coat Deep Center Hem VentBy Bergdorf GoodmanLocated in West Palm Beach, FLBergdorf Goodman black cashmere overcoat from the 1990s. A statement making coat in luxurious black cashmere. Single breasted coat has notched lapels...Category
1990s American Overcoats
- Giorgio Armani Camel Hair Classic Double Breasted Coat 1990sLocated in West Palm Beach, FLGiorgio Armani camel hair classic double breasted coat from the 1990s. A classic coat with sleek Italian design influences. The coat features notched lapels, double breasted front wi...Category
1990s Coats
- 1940s Navy Blue Wool Princess Coat Peterson Gerzog Providence Rhode IslandLocated in West Palm Beach, FL1940s navy blue wool princess coat, from Peterson Gerzog, Providence Rhode Island. A beautiful classic wool coat with amazing details such as, hand bo...Category
1940s American Coats and Outerwear
- Giorgio Armani Classico Navy Blue Cashmere Raglan Sleeve Belted Over CoatBy Giorgio ArmaniLocated in West Palm Beach, FLGiorgio Armani Classico, Black Label, navy blue cashmere over coat. Dark navy cashmere coat with tab & adjustable button cuffs, long raglan sleeves. The coat closes at the front with...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Coats
- Hermes Le Mors a la Conetable GM 140 Shawl Designed by Henri d’Origny 2004 BoxBy Henri D'Origny, HermèsLocated in West Palm Beach, FLHermes Le Mors a la Conetable, GM 140 cashmere & silk Shawl 2004 designed by Henri d'Origny was first issued in 1970. Equestrian themed ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Shawls
- Issey Miyake Pleats Please Black & Grey Printed Open Front Lapel Collar CoatBy Issey MiyakeLocated in West Palm Beach, FLIssey Miyake Pleats Please black & grey printed design drop shoulder, long sleeve, open front coat with turn back collar/lapels. Great design, perf...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Japanese Coats
- Vintage Rare Pierre Cardin Boutique Navy Blue Trench CoatBy Pierre CardinLocated in Fort Lauderdale, FLBeautiful vintage circa 1980 Pierre Cardin Boutique classic trench coat. Made in France. Navy blue corduroy features the traditional storm flap ...Category
1980s French Trench Coats
- SAINT LAURENT By HEDI SLIMANE F/W 2015 Runway CoatBy Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Berlin, BESAINT LAURENT by HEDI SLIMANE Rare F/W 2015 Runway Coat With Mink Collar Brand: Saint Laurent Designer: Hedi Slimane Collection / Year: F/W 2015 Fabric: Wool / Mink Color: Black Siz...Category
2010s French Coats
- Vintage GUY LAROCHE 80s Ski Hooded PARKA Gray Red Jacket Down Feather Coat XLBy Guy LarocheLocated in Asheville, NCGuy Laroche, 80's Designer Vintage, Paris/New York, Made in Taiwan, Polyester/Cotton Shell, Down, Feathers and Polyester Filler, Dual Metal Zipper, Button and Drawstring Tie Closures...Category
1980s Taiwanese Anoraks and Parkas
- Vintage 1960's Black Beaded and Rhinestone Floral Evening CapeLocated in Cheltenham, GBThis divine 1960's black shoulder cape, decorated with black sequins and beads, and accented by large claw set iridescent rhinestones, in a trailing floral pattern, is just the perfe...Category
1960s European Capes
- 1920'S Gold Lamé Bead Embellished Jacket UK 10 US 6Located in Cheltenham, GBFull of opulent original details, this beautiful 1920's embellished jacket on a swirling gold lamé base is just the piece to add a touch of elegance to your wardrobe. The open nec...Category
1920s Coats
- Vintage 1960's Yves Saint Laurent Wool Coat UK 8 US 4By Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Cheltenham, GBA rare and unique piece to behold, this original vintage 1960's Yves Saint Laurent Coat, Rendered in a cream wool and lined in silk, is just the piece to add to your couture collecti...Category
1960s Coats
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.
How to Spot a Fake Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted — and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. Of course, you don't have to worry about this on 1stDibs, where every seller is highly vetted.