MOSCHINO COUTURE! Pink Wool Smiley Face Buttons Chanel Inspired Jacket, c. 1992
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MOSCHINO COUTURE! Pink Wool Smiley Face Buttons Chanel Inspired Jacket, c. 1992
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 18.9 in (48.01 cm)Marked Size: 44 IT / 40 D / 12 GB / 10 USA (EU)Bust: 39 in (99.06 cm)Waist: 37 in (93.98 cm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Alteration made by original designer. Excellent vintage condition. Appears unworn. The crocheted trim down the front and around the front hem has been altered by the House of Moschino at the request of the customer. Originally they were loose and hanging down.
- Seller Location:Munich, DE
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU78537793492
Moschino
The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.
Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.
Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.
Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.
“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”
Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.
In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.
After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.
Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.
“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”
Find vintage Moschino clothing on 1stDibs.
Moschino Couture
The story of Moschino and Moschino Couture begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.
Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.
Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.
Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.
“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”
Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.
In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.
After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.
Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.
“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”
Find vintage Moschino Couture bags, shirts, pants, jackets and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- 1989 MOSCHINO COUTURE Red Blue Venice Gondolier Jacket Cruise Me Baby CollectionBy Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this. The stunning Spring/Summer 1989 Moschino Couture jacket is part of Franco Moschino's coveted "Cruise me Baby" collection and a wearable collectors item that will only increase in value. Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills. The spectacular jacket, inside and out, is a love letter to the city of Venice. When designing this jacket Franco Moschino obviously had the typical Venetian gondolier's dress code in mind – a red/white or blue/white striped T-shirt. It captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. The cropped design features a slightly fitted bodice which is horizontally red/white-striped at front and appliquéd with two black stylized gondola prows, a symbol of Venice, that are not just ornamental but have a hidden meaning. To name just one, the metal lines correspond to the number of the Sestieri (districts) of Venice. Accentuated with gold braiding, the jacket closes with a row of spherical gold metal buttons at center front. The back is monochrome red. The elbow-length sleeves are diagonally Venice-blue/white-striped and showcase wide red gold braided cuffs that are embellished with the winged lion – THE symbol of the Serenissima – holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I ♡ VENICE" written in it. I love that the lining is as beautiful as the outside of the jacket! It features colourful scenes of St. Mark's Square – the Doge's Palace, the Campanile, the two large granite columns, one surmounted by the iconic bronze winged lion sculpture and the other one by St. Theodore of Amasea. How luxurious is that? The matching Moschino Venice...Category
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- MOSCHINO COUTURE! Repetita Juvant S/S 1994 Khaki Beauty Tools "Survival Jacket"By Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEIconic Moschino Couture "Survival Jacket" from Franco Moschino's Repetita Juvant S/S 1994 anniversary collection. Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this. This is an important and rare vintage Moschino Couture "SURVIVAL JACKET" with all original tools present and in excellent vintage condition. Usually these jackets are missing many or most of the original tools, but fortunately, this one has all of them. Held by various fashion museums worldwide, it is a piece of fashion history that will only increase in value. The jacket was designed for the S/S 1994 Repetita Juvant anniversary collection that included some of Franco Moschino's most important couture pieces. It is so iconic that Jeremy Scott presents a slightly overworked re-edition of it as part of the current Autumn/Winter 2021 Moschino runway...Category
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- MOSCHINO COUTURE S/S 1992 Cruise me Baby "I Love Venice" Lion Appliquéd JacketBy Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this. The stunning Moschino Couture jacket from S/S 1992 is part of Franco Moschino's coveted "Cruise me Baby" collection and a wearable collectors item that will only increase in value. Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills. I am delighted to have found documentation of the jacket with a photo of a "Tribute to Venice" window display from February 1992 in the book about Moschino "X Anni di Kaos! 1983 1993". See the last picture. The spectacular jacket, inside and out, is a love letter to the city of Venice. It features colourful scenes of St. Mark's Square – the Doge's Palace, the Campanile, the two large granite columns, one surmounted by the iconic bronze winged lion sculpture and the other one by St. Theodore of Amasea – printed on the sleeves and the entire lining. How luxurious is that? The winged lion – the symbol of Venice – is worked through the whole piece. Appliquéd on both cuffs and prominently across the back of the jacket holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I ♡ VENICE" written in it. Below it a paper cut-esque silhouette of the city. On the front of the jacket you find two stylized gondola prows, another symbol of the Serenissima, that are not just ornamental but have a hidden meaning. To name just one, the metal lines correspond to the number of the Sestieri (districts) of Venice. The cropped open front design has a boxy silhouette, long sleeves and is accentuated with gold braiding. Sleeves and lining are done in a high-quality colourful printed silk twill, bodice in a cream acetate and rayon blend. I love the play of textures! Labeled "Moschino Couture! Cruise me Baby Made in Italy" and tagged a vintage IT 44, D 40, GB 12, USA 10. Excellent vintage condition. One yellowish spot at the back of the left sleeve cuff (see the picture before the label). Shoulders: 42 cm – 16.54" (seam to seam) Bust: 96 cm – 37.8" (under the arms from side seam to side seam) Sleeve length: 60 cm – 23.62" (measured from shoulder seam) Length: 43 cm – 16.93" (from neck to hem) Bust measurement is taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED. Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M Reference Photo: Moschino Venice...Category
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