A/W 1988-89 Moschino Cheap & Chic Off-White Laurel Design Padded Jacket
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 20.1 in (51.06 cm)Marked Size: 44 IT / 40 D / 12 GB / 10 USA (EU)Bust: 40.9 in (103.89 cm)Waist: 40.2 in (102.11 cm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:One small yellowish spot at the bottom of the right sleeve near the cuff.
- Seller Location:Munich, DE
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU78535042361
Moschino
The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.
Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.
Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.
Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.
“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”
Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.
In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.
After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.
Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.
“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”
Find vintage Moschino clothing on 1stDibs.
Moschino Cheap and Chic
One name that all vintage experts agree is synonymous with camp is Franco Moschino. By the time he launched a diffusion line called Moschino Cheap and Chic, the late designer had already spent several years shocking and titillating the fashion elite with his whimsical, irreverent parodies of bourgeois finery.
The Moschino story begins in the early 1980s, when Franco Moschino (1950–94), a freelance magazine illustrator and Gianni Versace collaborator, founded a label in Italy whose ethos was all about having fun.
Moschino initially pursued a degree in painting at Milan's Brera Academy of Fine Arts during the late 1960s, turning to freelance illustration to help pay his way through school. He found inspiration in Pop art, Dadaism and bold graphics. During the 1970s, he began to work for Gianni Versace’s now-legendary house as a sketcher and freelanced as a clothing designer with other fashion labels. In 1983, encouraged by Versace, he launched his own extravagant and excessive couture collection.
Moschino's expertly tailored, vibrant designs for casual wear and more, each adorned with loud, playful details, spoofed the chic high fashion of the day, and Franco's close relationship with fine art — as well as his eye for innovation — welcomed comparisons to Elsa Schiaparelli over the years. The label’s work essentially mocked the industry even as its hand fed Moschino, with the founder emblazoning shirts with slogans such as “Good taste doesn’t exist” or embroidering jackets with the phrase “Waist of money,” while the theatrical shows were positioned with an undercurrent of critique.
Today, the Metropolitan Museum of Art holds two vintage Moschino handbags in its collection: one shaped like a milk carton and the other an iron.
“Under all the surface witticisms, [Moschino] had a serious knack for running class pieces through a wringer of irony or Surrealism,” observed Vogue. “Chanel-isms were his favorite trope, though he also poked fun at Jean Paul Gaultier’s lingerie dressing and put out pasta bags in a parody of the Prada accessories craze.”
Accessories, jeans and the first men’s collection were presented at the Regal Palace in Milan in 1985, with his Moschino Jeans womenswear collection following in 1986. Then Moschino released Moschino for Women, its first fragrance, the next year in Europe.
In 1988, long before brands had considered the concept of a spin-off, Moschino bowed its cheeky diffusion line for men and women, Moschino Cheap and Chic, during the shows in Milan. The label thrived, adding its first stores in Italy and campaigning for eco-friendly fur. Its retrospective-slash-fashion show “X Years of Kaos” in the early 1990s benefited a children’s AIDS organization.
After Moschino’s untimely death at the age of 44 from AIDS complications, Rossella Jardini, his longtime friend and colleague, took the reins. She carried the torch for nearly 20 years, adding eyewear, watches and jewelry. American designer Jeremy Scott was named creative director in 2013.
Scott, who grew up on a farm and once unveiled a collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks, imbues all his work with a message of inclusion, be it his Fast Food collection in 2014 (hot dog dress included) or Moschino Barbie.
“I don’t care if the critics don’t like me,” Scott told Vogue. “I want to be the people’s designer, like Diana was the people’s princess.”
Find vintage Moschino Cheap and Chic day dresses, skirts, pants and other clothing on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Munich, Germany
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.
- MOSCHINO COUTURE! Multi-Coloured Hand-Decorated Silk Bomber Jacket, S/S 1991By Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino ...Category
1980s Italian Jackets
- Yves Saint Laurent YSL Grey Faux Astrakhan Fur and Black Velvet Jacket, c. 1992By Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in Munich, DEUnusual and rare vintage Yves Saint Laurent charcoal grey faux fur Persian lamb or Astrakhan coat with black velvet collar, cuffs and edging probably from the Fall 1992 ready-to-wear...Category
1990s French Coats
- 1989 MOSCHINO COUTURE Red Blue Venice Gondolier Jacket Cruise Me Baby CollectionBy Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this. The stunning Spring/Summer 1989 Moschino Couture jacket is part of Franco Moschino's coveted "Cruise me Baby" collection and a wearable collectors item that will only increase in value. Franco Moschino once said in a 1994 interview with British GQ: “Funny clothes have to be extremely well made because that is where you find the chic." This design is a perfect example of his outstanding skills. The spectacular jacket, inside and out, is a love letter to the city of Venice. When designing this jacket Franco Moschino obviously had the typical Venetian gondolier's dress code in mind – a red/white or blue/white striped T-shirt. It captures the fun vibe that Moschino has always represented as a brand. The cropped design features a slightly fitted bodice which is horizontally red/white-striped at front and appliquéd with two black stylized gondola prows, a symbol of Venice, that are not just ornamental but have a hidden meaning. To name just one, the metal lines correspond to the number of the Sestieri (districts) of Venice. Accentuated with gold braiding, the jacket closes with a row of spherical gold metal buttons at center front. The back is monochrome red. The elbow-length sleeves are diagonally Venice-blue/white-striped and showcase wide red gold braided cuffs that are embellished with the winged lion – THE symbol of the Serenissima – holding a book below its paw with the sentence "I ♡ VENICE" written in it. I love that the lining is as beautiful as the outside of the jacket! It features colourful scenes of St. Mark's Square – the Doge's Palace, the Campanile, the two large granite columns, one surmounted by the iconic bronze winged lion sculpture and the other one by St. Theodore of Amasea. How luxurious is that? The matching Moschino Venice...Category
1980s Italian Cropped Jackets
- S/S 1994 MOSCHINO COUTURE Roman Centurion Red White Brass Metal Ornaments JacketBy Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEEarly Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino ...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- LEONARD PARIS Black Pink Green Wool Knit Jacket with Peony Floral Print, 1990sBy Leonard of ParisLocated in Munich, DEHere we have a wonderful 1990s Leonard Paris blazer with one of the fashion house's instantly recognizable signature floral prints. The design is made from pure black wool knit and...Category
1990s Unknown Jackets
- MOSCHINO COUTURE! Repetita Juvant S/S 1994 Khaki Beauty Tools "Survival Jacket"By Moschino, Moschino CoutureLocated in Munich, DEIconic Moschino Couture "Survival Jacket" from Franco Moschino's Repetita Juvant S/S 1994 anniversary collection. Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino in 1983 until he passed away in 1994 are sought after and highly collectible. This treasure, like several others that are already available in my shop and more to be listed gradually, comes direct from a German socialite and fashion collector so has not been on the market prior to this. This is an important and rare vintage Moschino Couture "SURVIVAL JACKET" with all original tools present and in excellent vintage condition. Usually these jackets are missing many or most of the original tools, but fortunately, this one has all of them. Held by various fashion museums worldwide, it is a piece of fashion history that will only increase in value. The jacket was designed for the S/S 1994 Repetita Juvant anniversary collection that included some of Franco Moschino's most important couture pieces. It is so iconic that Jeremy Scott presents a slightly overworked re-edition of it as part of the current Autumn/Winter 2021 Moschino runway...Category
1990s Italian Blazers
- Vintage Salvatore Ferragamo Coat 1980s Oversized Gray Wool Jacket W PocketsBy FerragamoLocated in Portland, ORThis is a fabulous 1980's Salvatore Ferragamo vintage gray wool jacket with front pockets. This would make a great addition to any Fall and Winter wardrobe! This versatile coat is f...Category
1980s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Escada Margaretha Ley Green Cashmere Blazer Jacket in Size 8By Escada Margaretha Ley, EscadaLocated in Portland, ORThis vintage Escada blazer was designed by Margaretha Ley and is made of 100% cashmere and lined in Escada logo printed green rayon satin. The ja...Category
Late 20th Century German Jackets
- Yves Saint Laurent Double Breasted Wool BlazerBy Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Milano, ITGorgeous grey classic style blazer designed by Yves Saint Laurent from the 1990s, made in France. The jacket is short and is made of grey wool with black trim. The collar with lapels...Category
1990s French Coats
- F/W 2003 Versace by Donatella Wrinkled Leather Lace-Up Coat VintageBy Donatella Versace, VersaceLocated in West Hollywood, CAPresenting a soft lace-up leather Versace trench, designed by Donatella Versace. From the F/W 2003 collection, similar jackets to this one can be seen on that season's runway. Constr...Category
Early 2000s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Early 1990s Gianni Versace Medusa Polka Dot Nylon Oversized Trench CoatBy Gianni VersaceLocated in West Hollywood, CAPresenting a unique early 1990s polka dot and Medusa trench coat, designed by Gianni Versace. This coat takes a fun, almost pop art approach, to the average trench coat with polka do...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- F/W 2003 Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford Grey Fur Full Length Runway CoatBy Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Tom Ford for Yves Saint LaurentLocated in West Hollywood, CAPresenting an incredible grey Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche fur coat, designed by Tom Ford. From the Fall/Winter 2003 collection, the black fox fur version of this coat debuted on t...Category
Early 2000s French Coats and Outerwear