Hermes Kelly Pochette with Diamonds in Brighton Blue
About the Item
- Designer:
- Design:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:Seller: CSJP1220KELDIAMOND1stDibs: LU33612433812
Kelly Bag
In 1837, Thierry Hermès (1801–78) founded his eponymous luxury goods company in Paris as a saddle manufacturer, serving the era’s carriage trade. In 1880, under the stewardship of Thierry's son Émile-Charles, fine riding gear was added to its offerings to complement the saddles. The company expanded their workshops to design handbags nearly half a century later. The Kelly bag, originally introduced as the Sac à dépêches (“the dispatch bag”) in 1935, was created by Robert Dumas, son-in-law to Thierry's grandson Émile-Maurice Hermès.
Designed for independent women who wanted a piece that was both luxurious and efficient, the Kelly bag has a trapezoid shape, two triangular gussets, a sculpted flap and handle. To this day, the understated bag comprises 36 individual leather pieces, 16 studs and a signature padlock and leather key cover, with three layers of leather at the base to ensure the bag can stand upright. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
The Kelly bag earned its name during preproduction on Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 film, To Catch a Thief. Costume designer Edith Head sourced products from Hermès to outfit actress Grace Kelly, who fell in love with the Sac à Dépêches and continued to carry it long after the movie wrapped. Months after marrying Prince Rainier III of Monaco in 1956, she was spotted carrying a brown pigskin Sac to shield her pregnancy from the paparazzi. And while the oft-repeated claim that Kelly and her bag appeared on a Life magazine cover isn’t true, photography of the actress and her cherished accessory began to appear everywhere at the time, and the bag’s profile suddenly skyrocketed.
In 1977 Hermès officially changed the item’s name to the Kelly bag. Less than a decade later, Hermès introduced another handbag to its line, also named after a style symbol, the Birkin bag. The Paris-based British actress Jane Birkin sat next to Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas — Robert's son — on an Air France flight. He noticed her overflowing handbag, and she told him she longed for “a handbag that is bigger than the Kelly but smaller than Serge’s suitcase,” in reference to her then-romantic partner, the French musician Serge Gainsbourg. The Birkin bag was created in 1984, joining the Kelly in Hermès’ permanent collection.
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- UNIQUE MADE TO ORDER Prada Colour Block HandbagBy PradaLocated in London, GBThis yellow and pink crocodile leather colour block tote from Prada features foldover top with twist-lock closure, gold-tone hardware, a panelled colour block design, an internal zip...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Top Handle Bags
- Hermes Kelly 32 Toile RougeBy HermèsLocated in London, GBThis Hermès Kelly 32 Sellier is an old time favourite. Meticulously made entirely by hand from natural Toile it is lined with evenly-grained Courchevel ...Category
20th Century French Top Handle Bags
- Hermès JPG Kelly Shoulder Bag With Fringe Limited Edition PHWBy HermèsLocated in London, GBThis limited edition Kelly bag designed by Jean Paul Gaultier is a truly unique piece. During JPG's tenure as the creative director at Hermès from 2003 to 2010, he reimagined some of...Category
2010s Top Handle Bags
- Hermès Birkin Bag Porosus 35By HermèsLocated in London, GBThe Birkin bag remains a true statement thanks to Hermes' signature craftsmanship and exclusivity. Crafted in durable and cured Porosus Crocodile skin in an amethyst tone and matte f...Category
Early 2000s Top Handle Bags
- Hermès Birkin 35 Jaune D'or & Potiron Candy EpsomBy HermèsLocated in London, GBThe Hermès Birkin 35cm is crafted from highly sought-after Epsom leather, known for its distinctive appearance, in a calming and beautiful yellow with a potiron colour inside, accent...Category
Early 2000s Top Handle Bags
- Hermès 35 Celeste Blue Epsom Leather PHWBy HermèsLocated in London, GBOne of the most sought-after Hermès styles, this pre-owned Kelly 35 Celeste Blue bag has been crafted from Epsom leather. A true testament to the quality of the house's craftsmanship...Category
2010s Top Handle Bags
- Hermès Birkin 30 Himalayas in Excellent ConditionBy HermèsLocated in Hong Kong, HKStamp Y Excellent Condition This item is final sale and not eligible for return.Category
2010s French Top Handle Bags
- Hermès Birkin 30 Togo Gris Pale Palladium HardwareBy HermèsLocated in New York, NYHermès Birkin 30 Gris Pale Togo Calfskin Leather Palladium Hardware Condition & Year: New 2023 Material: Togo Calfskin Leather Measurements: 30cm x 23cm x 1...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Top Handle Bags
- Nancy Gonzalez Pearl White Crocodile Shoulder BagBy Nancy GonzalezLocated in Philadelphia, PANancy Gonzalez Pearl White Crocodile Shoulder Bag in good condition. White pearlized crocodile skin with double top handles and pleated body style. Top hidden magnetic closure opens ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Top Handle Bags
- Nancy Gonzalez Iridescent Peal White Crocodile HandbagBy Nancy GonzalezLocated in Philadelphia, PANancy Gonzalez Iridescent Peal White Crocodile Handbag in excellent condition. Iridescent pearl crocodile exterior with top double hand...Category
Early 2000s Top Handle Bags
- RARE Hermes Kelly Flat 35 White Swift Silver PDHBy HermèsLocated in Philadelphia, PARARE Hermes Kelly Flat 35 White Swift Silver PDH in very good condition. Originally designed by Jean Paul Gaultier, the Kelly flat is a unique take on the t...Category
Early 2000s Top Handle Bags
- Chanel Vintage Denim Quilted Drawstring Hobo Shoulder Tote BagBy ChanelLocated in Miami, FLChanel Pre-Owned 2008-2009 diamond quilted drawstring tote Featuring silver-tone hardware, a diamond quilted finish, an internal logo patch, chain and fabric top handles and a strip...Category
Early 2000s Italian Tote Bags
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
This Iconic Hermès Bag Is Made from an Unexpected Material: Wood
From a house that specializes in covetable objects, this version of the Kelly is the rarest of finds.
A Short History of the World’s Most Iconic Designs
Of the million-plus items on 1stdibs, some seem to have transcended time, looking as fresh today as when they were first produced. The pieces highlighted on our new Iconic Designs page stand out for longevity, functionality and quality of design and manufacture — just the tonic for the present unsettled moment.