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Important VCA Art Deco Diamond Bow Brooch

$170,961.95

About

An Important Art Deco diamond bow brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, the two hundred and eighty-seven old European-cut diamonds estimated to weigh 17 carats in total, millegrain-set in a flexible and openwork design mount in the form of a bow, all made in platinum, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, maker’s marks for Rubel Frères, French platinum assay marks and inventory number 31586, in the original fitted case, circa 1925, measuring approximately 8.5 x 7cm, gross weight 36.1 grams. Jean & Robert Rubel, originally from Hungary, settled in Paris and opened a workshop near place Vendome at 22 rue Vivienne in 1915. Their extraordinary skills and craftsmanship were quickly recognised by the most renowned jewellery houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Ostertag and Lacloche Frères. Van Cleef & Arpels began working with Rubel Freres in 1923. They crafted some of their most iconic pieces, such as the magnificent ruby, diamond and emerald ‘Roses’ bracelet for which they were awarded a Grand Prix in the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The above piece is one of the early works that Rubel Freres made for Van Cleef & Arpels. Art Deco brooch in Excellent condition. A highly important example of Van Cleef & Arpels at the height of their fame in Place Vendome during the 1920s, from the collection of Bentley & Skinner, the London jewellers by appointment to both Her Majesty the Queen and His Royal Highness, The Prince of Wales. This magnificent, flexible diamond set bow brooch shimmers with light reflecting the opulence and elegance of the decade Should you choose to make this purchase we will delighted to send it to you in a gift-wrapped Bentley & Skinner black and gold presentation box. Shortly afterwards we will send you on a valuation for insurance purposes for your reference and safekeeping. Please note: because of the high value of this item, an export licence will be required to ship this item outside of the United Kingdom. This process will add an extra 2-4 weeks onto the shipment time. Thank you for your understanding.

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    Ships From: London, United Kingdom
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About the Designer

Van Cleef & Arpels

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpel. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, the Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

About the Seller
4.9
Located in London, United Kingdom
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Established in 1880
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53 sales on 1stDibs
Typical response time: 14 hours
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