Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Coral Clematis Brooch, circa 1960s

Name: Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Coral Clematis Brooch, circa 1960s
Brand: Van Cleef & Arpels
Price: 29000 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

One of the more notable features of the Clematis Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels are the five petals, sometimes heart shaped and outlined in gold, sometimes made of dark highly polished wood or mother of pearl, or freely depicted in coral that ranges in coloration from pale to saturated. Few Clematis Brooches possess such overall lyrical movement as this example from the 1960s, however. The particular arrangement of these five coral petals is dynamic, and the exquisite carving makes them seem to lilt musically. A trademark of the Maison, flowers in their blooming glory appear to gracefully come to life. The curved stem and single leaf, in this brooch wrought in 18K yellow gold with naturalistic stamping on the leaf, adds to its delicate charm. Collectors should take note that coral has become an endangered species material since this piece was made, thus enhancing the value of coral Clematis Brooches extant. Characteristic of the Clematis Brooch—and also of the Maison’s coral Rose de Noël Brooch introduced in 1970—the stamen is crafted with individual gold threads accented with diamonds. The center of the flower is reminiscent of a spectacular starburst, capturing the effervescence of the Mid Century in the age of space exploration. In this example, a constellation of eight round brilliant-cut diamonds is the focal point, totaling approximately 0.65 carat. Created by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris in the Mid-Century era, circa 1960s. The metal and Gemstones are 18K yellow gold, hand carved coral, set with 8 round-cut diamonds with an estimated diamond carat weight of 0.65 carat (approx.), E-F color, VVS clarity. Double pinstem with overall dimensions of 1.76 in. (44.45 mm) width by 2.125 in. (53.98 mm) length. The gross weight is 20.76 g. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels. Designer/Provenance is Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris. Condition is Excellent. Serial number provided upon request. Please note: this property cannot be shipped internationally due to endangered species materials (coral).

Creator:

Van Cleef & Arpels

Metal:

18k Gold

Stone:

Diamond,Coral

Stone Cut:

Mixed Cut

Weight:

20.76 g

Dimensions:

Width: 1.75 in (44.45 mm)Length: 2.125 in (53.98 mm)

Place of Origin:

France

Period:

Late 20th Century

Date of Manufacture:

1960s

Condition:

Seller Location:

New York, NY

Reference Number:

Seller: P10331stDibs: LU33022694173

View Invoice

Shop All Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpel. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, the Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.