4.04 Carats Round Peridot and Diamond Plique a Jour Earrings in Platinum and 14K

Throughout the early 20th century, Marcus & Co. established a reputation as one of the finest American producers of Art Nouveau jewelry. The firm’s innovative techniques included the use of plique-à-jour enameling. During the 1900s, this rare method was used by only three other jewelry companies in the United States — Tiffany & Co., Riker Bros. and Whiteside and Blank. 

Marcus & Co. was founded in 1892, in New York City, by Herman Marcus and his son William. Herman was born and raised in Germany, where he worked as a jeweler for Ellemeyer, the court jewelers of Dresden, before moving to the United States in 1850.

After arriving in New York City, Herman worked as a designer at several prestigious luxury firms, including Ball, Black & Co., Tiffany & Co. and was a partner at Starr and Marcus before he went into business with William. Later, they were joined by Herman’s other son, George.

Herman worked with his sons until his death in 1899, when William and George expanded the firm to include a silversmithing department to make serveware. However, Marcus & Co. focused mainly on jewelry design and manufacturing, offering Revival-style pieces. 

In 1900, the company exhibited a series of striking orchid motif brooches at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. The brooches attracted critical acclaim for their plique-à-jour enameling and intricate detail — characteristics that would become Marcus & Co.’s signature.

The company’s Art Nouveau jewelry took shape during the 1920s and 1930s. Cocktail rings, engagement rings, necklaces and cufflinks featured fine diamonds, natural pearls and gems rarely seen during that period, such as peridots, zircons, spinels and chrysoberyls. Marcus & Co.’s designs were comparable by critics to fine art jewelry made by René Lalique and attracted high-profile clientele like business tycoon John D. Rockefeller. 

Despite Marcus & Co.’s success, the firm closed briefly during World War II. In 1962, they merged with the company Black, Starr & Frost.

Marcus & Co. pieces are still highly coveted among jewelry collectors. The firm’s Art Nouveau plique-à-jour accessories, a technique that sees enamel powder applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away — instead applying the enamel directly to metal — are particularly collectible. In 2011, a Morning Glory plique-à-jour pendant brooch and chain made in 1900 sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $302,500.

On 1stDibs, discover antique Marcus & Co. brooches, rings and decorative objects. 

Care and consideration for others has guided Kiersten Elizabeth in her designs. It’s what motivates her as an artist. Every magnificent one-of-a-kind piece she creates is carefully considered for the feelings it will provoke, for the memories it will encapsulate, for the love and joy it will signify. It is particular. It is meant for you. It sings a personal song and radiates a specific light. It tells your story. Like all art, this precious jewelry is informed by its maker’s experiences and personality. It references work that has come before, yet it finds new expression. Kiersten apprenticed with a large international jeweler, learned secrets of the trade, and earned certifications in diamonds and colored gems. The creative impulse was strong, along with her sense of adventure. She began to travel far and wide in search of pristine gems for the stories they can tell. While Kiersten’s knowledge of fine gems and designs has evolved, she’s always maintained a strong belief that jewelry is always about the person who wears it. Each gem is meant to contain meaning, each wearer is meant to look upon her jewelry and appreciate more than its intense color or sparkle. She is meant to feel good while holding memories close. She is meant to channel and to receive love. She is meant to embrace life and those who give it substance. This is what Kiersten Elizabeth contemplates with each precious one-of-a-kind piece of fine jewelry she creates.